Supercharged 2GR SW20 Project

[lasersooby]

Got the swaybar end links modified so that it fits the end mounting on the strut. Took 6mm off one end of the studs and have enough clearance for now, have about 4mm on each side. It will be interesting to see how this goes when the weight of the car is resting on its wheels etc.

Tops of the rear coilovers, project to set the rears up this weekend:

[GDII]

Time to start dealing with the gearbox connectors. C56 is the big black one for the gearbox ECU, C1 is the smaller grey one that we need 2 wires from.

This is the ECU connector C56. It gets cut out completely.

But what you do need are the red and green wires from the C1 plug.

C1 and C56 are joint in 2 places. One splice join is for the D selection. You need to cut off this join to clear C56 off so you can get the right wire for the connection to power.

The splice is coated in silicone and covered in a tape. Unlike the older GEN2 3SGTE harness which was just tape. Note that the GEN4 3SGTE harness has no open barrel splice joins, only junction block plugs and end terminals. Interesting, to me at least that the 2GR uses quite a few splice joins.

This is what's left over to join.

Once you get to this point you can then join them.

Cut wires short where you see fit. This is near the Y junction.

Strip them back far enough for the right size of open barrel crimp

Select your crimp. I am using the Mini size from MSEL.

Place it in the correct crimp die. A in this case on this tool.

Squeeze down and you have a nicely executed splice join.

Get some ES2000 size 1

Shrink with heat gun and then squeeze the end gently until it cools to seal the end.

All complete. Splash sealed but it will go inside the harness and get wrapped up properly with tape to seal it again.

The sheet Marc made for his swap. Note the 2 and 7. Here it's 1 and 7.

First step in doing a crimp on either harness complete! Many more to do.

[GDII]

Baby inspector pointing out my next point of call. The CA plugs.

CA1 has power to injectors and the starter cable. We do not need the starter cable unless you are using the 2GR starter for some reason.

Baby says get rid of starter wire. He knows what to do!

Ok, done!

Opening up the Y junction to access more wires and learn what is in there.

Getting rid of plug C34 ACM plug. Pulling the pin from C55.

Capping the power wire at the splice junction. No need for the active mount system here.

Here in the wiring diagram you can see said splice connection. It also has the ACIS power so that's out too.

More opening up of the Y junction.

Gearbox plugs and wires removed. They mostly go into the y junction and back out the other branch between C56, C1 and C55 ECU plug.
I took out the pins from C55 that relate to the other gearbox selector positions.

This is the main earth point. You end up with 3? spare wires from the gearbox stuff but you can use these to join to the earth wires from the 3S harness as required.

Junk!!

This stage, the harness overall again.

CA1 with what you need.

CA2 with what you need. I couldn't depin the smaller pins as my tools weren't small enough so I just cut them.

CA3 with what you need.

[GDII]

Next step is to repin and add to the old 3SGTE ECU plugs. E6 remains on the car body, E7 will be used for the Drive By Wire Throttle Position Sensor wiring and E8 will be used to join all the other bits in to the small 2GR ECU plug. This is call A55.

All labelled up so I know what wires to join to what pin.

Baby inspector getting his first taste at rowing through the gears in an MR2.
"Hurry up Papa and get that GEN4 3SGTE in here so I can go boosting!!"

When you buy the small A55 plug from Marc it comes with a selection of wires and blanking seals. Some wires are bigger gauge than others for power. Marc does mention that 2 small gauge blue wires with large pins are for the 2AR swap so are not to be used here.

To depin the small pins on these ECU plugs you need to remove this cap. To pin it, you don't but just showing you how to get it off.

In the end you need to push it up. There are 4 clips, 2 at each end.

Small pin end.

Large pin end.

Cap removed, you can see the little locking tabs for the small wires.

Adding in a power wire to the large slots.

You can see the small pins poking through here where the cap covers this normally.

Labelling each wire so I know where to put it.

Mo managed to pick up a pair for pre cut ECU plugs from a ZRE152N Corolla so what I did was take the wires and use the right colours from the Aurion/Camry wiring diagram so they are far easier to track in the future if needed. OCD is strong on this one!

Pinning the new plug. I'll fill the empty pins with plugs from the kit and the spare Corolla plugs. I need to fill in some from the large 2GR ECU plug too. I know, the ECU is in a safe place in the boot but I want to finish it off nicely and I believe I have enough to complete it properly.

All labelled up!!

[lasersooby]

Awesome job Phill, love the attention to detail and nah mate, you're not being OCD here. Thanks for the work and effort that you're putting into this project. Thanks to the QA Inspector for his help as well

[GDII]

Next was to remove a few plugs and wires from the 2GR harness that are not used on the MR2 setup or the supercharged setup in this case.

Powersteering in the MR2 is obviously the electrohydraulic system at the front and the PS pump on the engine is no longer there. So, we remove the plug and wire. However the engine ECU still has a link to the PS ECU under the PS pin on the MR2 engine ECU or PSW pin on the 2GR ECU. This pin tells the engine ECU to idle up the the engine when the powersteering is working. You'll probably have noticed on a front engine car that when you turn the steering the engine revs up. This plug is linked to the oil pressure switch on the hydraulic pump on the Aurion. So it gets rerouted to the MR2 PS ECU so that ECU can tell the engine ECU to idle up with high loading on the PS system.

I cut the plug off and pulled the wire though to join to the MR2 body harness.

Plug C48 is normally the ACIS (Acoustic Control Intake System) and this harness starts out life as the same NA harness you find in the normal vanilla Aurion and Camry. TRD Australia just added the super charger, tweaked the ECU and unplugged the ACIS system as the supercharged intake manifold does not contain it. Then tapped it to the harness with some black tape on what is normally grey.

Chopped!! No need for this plug, it never did anything on the original car anyway and there is no use for it here. Clean up!!

Cut and capped the ACIS wire next to the ACM wire at the splice junction.

Next we have the AC pump 'problem' with the clever 2GR system. It has a flow control valve inside that is controlled by the AC amplifier in the Aurion. Now that we do not have the amplifier to control the pump, if you use the pump the valve stays open and the AC doesn't really work. You can open it up and weld it shut or potentially permanently power it to make it stay closed. But Mo has already purchased a 1GR pump that only has the 3 pin triangle plug with the magnetic clutch wire(controlled by the MR2 AC amplifier) and the other 2 pins that are for Lock Sensor which I'm not 100% sure on what it does. It's connected to the Aurion AC amplifier and the AC pressure sensor. As we do not have these parts anymore we only need the magnetic clutch power wire to make it work. I cut and capped the wires near the Y junction as they refused to be pulled out of the harness like the powersteering wire.

This bracket is near the front bank right side of the car. I removed the AC plug so took off the bracket to cap the wires inside the plastic cover. I'll put it back on later.

You can see the blue and green wires off to the right side. These are the Lock wires, cut and capped.

Plenty more to come. No where near finished.

[GDII]

Awesome job Phill, love the attention to detail and nah mate, you're not being OCD here. Thanks for the work and effort that you're putting into this project. Thanks to the QA Inspector for his help as well

No problem! This is an exciting project to be working on. Plenty of learning going on.

[GDII]

Sealing up the ECU plugs.

In the A55 plug kit you get some more plugs to fill in the empty gaps.

Just push them in will a small tool.

And heres my OCD again....
The seals have 2 ends, one with a flat end, one with a bump from the moulding process. This is the wrong end!! I had to switch them over.

That's better

The large plugs need to be pushed down to the right height, too far and they drop down too low. This is just right.

Ran out of large plugs.

Luckily the Corolla plugs have spares of the same dimension.

Fully filled. That looks much better!

A few more taken from the Corolla for the C55 plug. 5 small and 2 large are needed.

[GDII]

Marc makes some really good looking brackets to mount the 2GR ECU to the stock MR2 position.

I'm using my car to test fit everything for the harness so it's long enough in the right places and short enough in others. This is the stock 3SGE harness you see installed. Obviously the 2GR harness and other parts have bigger plugs.
There are few more things to mount back here but I'll cover that later once I have actually figured it all out. Not much space to work with in the depression in the firewall around the ECU.

[lasersooby]

It was Christmas Day for me today, few goodies arrived.

Whiteline swaybars & camber bolts, cheapest in the country by a country mile (had stock on hand to ship). Forget shopping at Supercheap or Repco

The other package that arrived today was from Amayama. Most of the stuff is for the engine overhaul, other items are electrical connectors and few other bits and pieces

Complete engine overhaul gasket:

Full metal VVTi line to replace the one on the rear bank which is in 3 pieces and uses a rubber hose to join the 2 ends together. These have been known to fail. Toyota has a warning bulletin out regarding replacing this line. The newer engine are full metal ones:

Steering rack ends to replace my floppy ones on the rack:

Bolts, gaskets & miscellaneous stuff for the fuel tank, electrical connectors, water temperature sensor:

Engine damper:

Hydraulic valve lash adjusters:

Fuel & oil filters:

Water pump:

10 more wheel nuts, the rear hubs can be assembled now"

[lasersooby]

Rear HSD coilovers sorted with Wilhelm Raceworks top hats and installed. Lots more options to adjust the settings for the rears:

Original HSD Pillowball Top Hats (front & rear), no longer needed:

[lasersooby]

The complete engine overhaul gasket set, water pump, main drive chain, 2 cam chains, solid VVTi line, forged pistons, forged rods, thermostat, ARP bolts (cams & rods) plus other bits & pieces, delivered to Elite Automotive for the engine rebuild to begin:

[lasersooby]

I sent the lower intake manifold off by engine to Travis Peek from Elate Manufacturing in Australia, and he has managed to 3D scan the manifold so that they can start the development of a plate intercooler to help with the cooling:

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This bracket bolts onto the end of the manifold. This is no longer needed as it does not suit the SW20 repower application. Has the full engine mount kit from SQ Engineering which is much cleaner and helps with the mounting of the engine in the confined engine bay:

[lasersooby]

Francois, Head Mechanic for Elite Automotive is re-building my engine and he has put in a lot of time in getting the head ported and polished. Here is an example of his work so far on one of the heads:

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Here is the finished cam covers powder coated red by Zachary from Kohl Rod & Customs:

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[lasersooby]

The unit is out of a 1996 SW20 UK model, before installing in the car, gave it a bit of a birthday with paint, new steering rack ends and boot. Thanks to Phill for suggesting the use of cable ties to hold the boot in place:

Rack sorted and ready to install the adjustable tie rods (part of Alex Wilhelm kit):

2021Mar16-Pix23.jpg Powerflex Bushing - Black Series, no idea why they are called black series when one of the bushing is purple :?:

2021Mar16-Pix26.jpg Steering rack mount brackets: