Supercharged 2GR SW20 Project

[lasersooby]

The rear hubs are sorted now and ready for install. All the parts were powder coated then assembled with the new bearings etc. and the bushes from twosrus. Once again my thanks goes to Gant, my Engineer at work for assembling the pieces together.

[lasersooby]

Hi all, anyone that is wanting the long cylinder barrel for their Kouki rear light centre garnish (if you didn't get one when you bought your set), please find link to a thread where someone has used a Honda (yeah that dreaded Honda parts again) as a solution to making this work for your application.

The boot cylinder barrel is off a 2006 to 2011 Honda Civic, and the generic part number is TL-323.

Link for this is here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/mr2/comments/a ... _cylinder/

Good luck. I'll take a whole load of pictures and do up a write up when I do this soon as I didn't get the keys or the barrel for with my set.

If anyone else does this, would be good to get a write and pictures as well

[lasersooby]

Received my cams from Kelford Cams. They did a Stage 1 re-grind and pretty excited to get these back for the engine rebuild.

Great Team at Kelford Cams and they are very open to having conversations and making suggestions based on your power goals. Contact Kiel Rassmussen, awesome person to deal with and provide the information that you need.

https://www.kelfordcams.com/nz/

[Swampy]

They should sound nice

[lasersooby]

Hope so mate, they cost a packet. This combined with the Berk rears, will be an interesting sound machine. Phill and I are already planning for a few runs through the tunnels

[lasersooby]

Hi all, anyone that is wanting the long cylinder barrel for their Kouki rear light centre garnish (if you didn't get one when you bought your set), please find link to a thread where someone has used a Honda (yeah that dreaded Honda parts again) as a solution to making this work for your application.

The boot cylinder barrel is off a 2006 to 2011 Honda Civic, and the generic part number is TL-323.

Link for this is here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/mr2/comments/a ... _cylinder/

Good luck. I'll take a whole load of pictures and do up a write up when I do this soon as I didn't get the keys or the barrel for with my set.

If anyone else does this, would be good to get a write and pictures as well

Further update on this. If you use this then I have been told that the key type is different. However, if we used the cylinder off the 98 - 02 Honda Accord, then you get the keys matched to your MR2 keys. The Accord cylinder barrel is TL-245

[GDII]

Haven't updated this for a while but I have been doing things.

As the 2GR runs an electronic throttle body it also has an electronic pedal. So unlike the old tech MR2 you don't have a moving cable between your foot and the throttle plate, instead you have a pedal position sensor on the throttle pedal, 6 wires connecting this sensor to the ECU and then even more wires connecting the ECU to the throttle body. This is called Drive By Wire or DBW. Marc sells the DBW plug with a decent length in wires to wire into the ECU but it seems it is only long enough for the LHD cars so I am going to have to extend the wires to get them to the ECU. Not a major issue but routing it from front to back is a little harder.

There are a few cabin to engine bay firewall grommets leading to the engine bay but then you need to get the wires back into the boot area where the ECU is. Not super simple if you want a tidy setup. However there are 2 holes in behind the seats for the boot lid, engine bay lid and fuel flap cable to run through, one on each side. The hole is an OK size but the cables have big foam casings over them where they got through the hole. These holes lead into the side of the car over the wheel arches directly to the boot space so they are almost perfect for this. I am yet to run the wires through the left side of my own car as a test bed to make sure it works. The plugs on each end of the wires might be too big so I might need to get 2 or 3 smaller plugs so I can feed them through one by one with staggered positions so it works.

Test fitting the cable to run down the right side door sill with the OEM wires.

Down the right to behind the seats. There are already wires here so can be clipped onto them.

My car already has a hole in the grommet from what I think was a CD changer when in Japan. I have taken out the big plug not long after I got the car.

Down hiding in the side is the cable and foam sleeve.

[GDII]

I now have a 2GRGE!!!!

This car now has 3 engine harnesses installed! Why, because I can. I have disassembled part of the engine to allow test fitting of the 2GR harness so I can get wire lengths correct. As you will see in the 3rd photo the wires to the fuse box are far too long!

There is the 3SGE harness, the stripped down 3SGTE harness and the 2GRFE harness all sitting on the engine.

After figuring out where everything goes, far more tidy. Then I can tape things up to know where everything sits and take it out again to start wiring things together.

The fuse box wires are far too long. They have to be joint so you can cut some length out if you want but remember if you do choose to do this the alternator wire must be shortened too. Which is a little harder as it's a massive cable vs the rest and you'd need additional tools to do so. I've asked Rocco26 to assist here but I'm sure an auto sparky could add the new lug on the end of the cut cable if needed.

Now you can thread the ECU plug through the firewall to the ECU and start trying to fit the rest. The yellow socket from a 3SGTE ECU can be used to join things together without having to cut the body harness plug. Plug and play if you will.

[GDII]

Once you have figured out the length required for the fuse box wiring you can start merging the MR2 plugs to the 2GR harness.

Starting with the alternator charge light wires.

Crossing off each wire as you go.

AC clutch wires. It's interesting how the MR2 wire is quite a bit thicker in gauge than the 2GR. It is the power wire for the magnetic clutch so I did expect the 2GR wore to be bigger. And yes, it is the right one.

EA3 plug with the majority of the wires for sensors and dashboard lights are in this plug.

Alternator sensing fuse.

I'm not going to document all the wires here. There are just too many. It's pretty much just joining the dots like for like for most of the wiring here.

[GDII]

There are 3 earth wires that you end up with from removing parts from the 2GR harness. You can use these for missing earths on the 3SGTE harness. This example is the left over wires from the 3SGTE harness that used to earth with the bolt on the 3SGTE intake manifold. It will now join to the 2GR earthing plug.

The oil pressure switch has 2 functions in this swap. This applies to all non MR2 ECU engines swaps if you want the power steering to work as per the OEM design. Marc points out you can use this in his video to replicate the 12v signal the MR2 PS ECU is expecting to make it behave like a car with a hydraulic pump.

On the MR2 ECU there is the PS and PSCT. PS is for the idle up when the power steering is operating at a high load, just like any other car. You turn the wheel and the pump loads the engine so the ECU idles up to make the engine run properly. The PSCT is the Power Steering Cut wire. When you turn the key to the on position with the engine off the PSCT pin provides a 12V signal to the PS ECU to tell it the engine is off. Just like the hydraulic system would shut down when the engine stops running. When the engine is running the PSCT wire cuts 12V to it so it knows to turn the system on. If you look at how the oil pressure switch and light circuit works, with the key in the ON position you have a light meanig 12V signal, when you start the engine and it gets oil pressure the light goes out so cutting 12V to the light bulb. Same as what the PSCT signal is therefore replicating the signal the PS ECU wants.

The old 3SGTE plug on the oil pressure switch.

The location of the wire in EA3.

The location of the oil pressure switch on CA2.

Getting ready to join the 3 wires together. Joining the 2GR plug to the 3SGTE plug and an extra wire to the yellow junction block I need to send the signal to the PSCT pin on the PS ECU.

[lasersooby]

The sticky oil residue needed removing, it looked bad especially the rear bank cover. I used Mineral Turps to clean them up:

2021Apr11-Pix09.jpeg (120.52 KiB) Viewed 861 times

Front Bank Cam Cover (before & after)

The Rear Bank Cam Cover was bad (before & after)

Looks like an investment in oil catch can is possibly needed

[GDII]

Looks good Mo!

What's the reasoning behind the catch can and the dirty underside of the valve covers?

[lasersooby]

Looks good Mo!

What's the reasoning behind the catch can and the dirty underside of the valve covers?

Thanks mate, bit of elbow grease to make this a lot better.

Reading up on a few posts from other sites, there seems to be a consensus that a catch can especially for the rear bank could help in reducing the sludge from building up. The supercharger showed signs of oil deposit on the underside as well. Trying to see what we can do to stop this buildup.

One of the guys has setup his system where the oil from the catch can actually drains back directly into the sump.

Lots to think about for when we get the engine assembled and ready for install

[GDII]

Ah right. I'm just seeing it as oil sling from the cams but if you keep up with oil changes it shouldn't do that as much.

You should definitely be using a catch can/oil air separator system anyway to prevent oil in the intake and supercharger.

Catch can is a system that catches the oil where the oil air separator is the one that drains back to the sump. It doesn't catch anything as it drains. If possible this is better so you don't have to drain the can all the time.

[Benckj]

By running full synthetic oil it tends to not form any sludge internally and if any vapours escape through PCV they do not collect the same way as dinasour oil. I'd be tempted to keep it simple , run FS oil and not install a catch can unless you see evidence of oil inside intake pipe.