SKDZ-EZ V6 ADub

[Mr-Paulio]

Looking very nice, you do good work. Having a V6 in an AW must be a real head rush.

Cheers. Yeah it is a bit of fun

[Mr-Paulio]

With the Overheating / bubbling, I just had a random thought.
When coolant pipes where attached, did the hot side of the motor, end up on the hot side of the radiator?

Yes good thinking.
I have considered this previously. (Mainly because the thermostat cycles on and off rapidly) And my research lead me to find these.

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According to these it should be right. But I do think it's worth checking again.
My thinking now is the thermostat switch (in the radiator for the fan relay) differential between on/off is too small for the heat this engine produces. As it's designed for a 1600 of course. So I might investigate thermostat options and see if I can retro fit a 3ltr thermostat sensor in the AW11 radiator. I haven't had a chance to do any research. But I would have thought if this is the case someone else would have solved the problem?

Anyway. Went for a large 1hr each way drive in the weekend. No over heating issues. Temp was stable between 80-90C. However pulling into my street I had a hesitation issue. After investigation the fuel pump sounded like it was seizing or low on amps? Sounds normal for a few seconds then drones like it's seized. I am hoping it's just a blockage in the fuel filter. It is new. But the tank isn't. And it's a 500hp pump (apparently) so it cycles alot (perhaps too much) fuel through this filter. Anyway today it was working fine again. So I'll just replace the fuel filter anyway and cross my fingers.

Latest news is I now have a full set of MR2s! AW11 SW20 and now a MRS "Mason Robert Smith" was born early Monday morning. Tried to come into this world sideways also.
The next generation of car enthusiast!!

[Mr-Paulio]

Okay, investigated the fuel pump issue and turns out it is a faulty regulator not flowing back to the tank. And with a 500hp pump that creates alot of pressure in the rails. Luckily I already have an adjustable reg I can fit. And also needed to plumb in the fuel pressure gauge anyway. I just need to get lines and adaptors made to suit and we are all go again!
I've also started work on my gurney flap. (Love the look, I know it's not functional)
Here is a teaser.

More to come when I have finished.

[mickeyduck]

I've always wanted to make a wing that was sprung or something so it could be steep at slow speeds but as the air pressure on it increased with speed it would pivot to level itself out flatter for less drag.

Regards functionality, on an AW at 100kmh the leading edge of the wing needs to be 15cm above the boot lid to be in the air flow. This is because the bubble of slowly rotating air that lives behind the rear window grows as the speed of the car increases. At 50kmh the front edge of the standard wing is in the airflow, but not at 100kmh.

If your gurney flap's leading edge is less than 15cm above the boot lid you might find it produces drag but not downforce. Whereas keeping the leading edge in the flow may make some serious downforce.

I intend to keep my standard wing on this AW and make 10cm risers for under it. The little wing I had on my AW previously generated about 40kg of downforce at 100kmh as shown by Shane and Hayden's experiments with weighing scales on a very similar wing. You do notice it when cornering at speed, it's like having someone sitting on the boot and is particularly helpful when running over bumps on fast corners.

[Gleshlich]

I've always wanted to make a wing that was sprung or something so it could be steep at slow speeds but as the air pressure on it increased with speed it would pivot to level itself out flatter for less drag.

Regards functionality, on an AW at 100kmh the leading edge of the wing needs to be 15cm above the boot lid to be in the air flow. This is because the bubble of slowly rotating air that lives behind the rear window grows as the speed of the car increases. At 50kmh the front edge of the standard wing is in the airflow, but not at 100kmh.

If your gurney flap's leading edge is less than 15cm above the boot lid you might find it produces drag but not downforce. Whereas keeping the leading edge in the flow may make some serious downforce.

I intend to keep my standard wing on this AW and make 10cm risers for under it. The little wing I had on my AW previously generated about 40kg of downforce at 100kmh as shown by Shane and Hayden's experiments with weighing scales on a very similar wing. You do notice it when cornering at speed, it's like having someone sitting on the boot and is particularly helpful when running over bumps on fast corners.

I've seen people have an active aero setup using headlight motors. Activated through the ECU, with speed sensors and brake pedal switches and the sort, the angle of attack changes to match the scenario

[mickeyduck]

Too fancy for me buddy. Malcolm could do it but outta my skill-set. I was thinking simple air pressure versus spring or pneumatic pressure. Though it may need to be dampened so as not to flutter, dunno...

[MR2GUY]

That gurney looks sweet. Always wanted to try one, would look awesome with some wider wheels and wider arches

[Mr-Paulio]

That gurney looks sweet. Always wanted to try one, would look awesome with some wider wheels and wider arches

Too true. I do love that look!
However I have mint, original rust free quarters. So I am not yet ready to start drilling into them to mount flares.
But maybe one day
All the body mods I've done so far are on spare parts. Engine lid, spoiler etc. So I can always put the originals back on if I want/need too.

[mickeyduck]

All the body mods I've done so far are on spare parts. Engine lid, spoiler etc. So I can always put the originals back on if I want/need too.

+1

[Statek]

All the body mods I've done so far are on spare parts. Engine lid, spoiler etc. So I can always put the originals back on if I want/need too.

+1

Lies, once you get flares = no regrets!

[Mr-Paulio]

All the body mods I've done so far are on spare parts. Engine lid, spoiler etc. So I can always put the originals back on if I want/need too.

+1

Lies, once you get flares = no regrets!

Haha, maybe. Its just a fear of cutting up my car

[Mr-Paulio]

DAMIT!!
It wasn't​ the fuel pressure regulator...
Now because I don't do things by halves, I didn't just get a new stock regulator. I replaced it with an adjustable regulator, new braided Teflon hoses, speedflow fittings (all black of course) and a stepper fuel gauge.

All installed and the issue remains.

But now I have a gauge I can see the fuel pressure only gets to about 40psi max (even with the reg is set to the highest setting) and then the pump starts to drone. As though it just can't cope to pump anymore fuel. I was convinced it was the reg because as soon as I cracked a fuel line the pump sped up and sounded normal again.
So I guess its back to the drawing board. I'm pretty sure it must be the pump. (Yay I get to drop the tank again! Not!!)
But will start with the filter and testing testing voltage to the pump etc.

On the plus side I have finished and fitted my new intake pipe!

[Mr-Paulio]

**HELP wanted regarding AW11 fuel system!
Hey guys, I am considering simplifying the fuel system. To make it easier when removing the tank (which happens all too often) But also remove charcoal canister and fuel lines from the fire wall which are quite close to the V6 exhaust.

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Can I remove the Fuel evaporation separator system without causing much of an issue? I imagine all it does is stop/reduce the fuel evaporating out of the tank? (And reduce odor) And I don't expect that is much of a major issue?
I'm looking to maybe just have the fuel pump flow and return lines. Fuel filler pipe and vent. And that's all.
Any thoughts on this idea? Is it a big no no?
Appreciate any advice on this matter. As I have little experience with this set up.

Additionally, as suspected replacing the fuel filter did nothing to help my low fuel pressure. And the current/voltage to the fuel pump is fine. Even tested wired direct to a battery, same issue. It starts okay but when pressure is built it starts to drone like it just has no balls. (Anyone experienced this before?)
So I've now removed the pump.

Had a few dodgy electrical fittings (Just like most of the V6)

Crimped wires without heat shrink. And the insulation on the crimps is faded, brittle and cracked.
But I don't suspect this would cause an issue however. As the plug terminals are also exposed to the fuel and could short or loose voltage/current just as easily as these poor joins.

So for the sake of $200 bucks I am just getting a new fuel pump. (Any recommendations would also be appreciated) looking at a DW200 255lph pump?

And finally I am back down to being a one MR2 guy
Sold the SDub to free up time and money for the ADub.

[flying_wedge]

Looks like we had the same idea for Gurney flap - the fujimura R32 GTR one.
I started fitting mine up about 3+ months ago, but just haven't finished due to time.
Here was at this years AGM...

[Mr-Paulio]

Looks like we had the same idea for Gurney flap - the fujimura R32 GTR one.
I started fitting mine up about 3+ months ago, but just haven't finished due to time.
Here was at this years AGM

Yup, that's the one. Fits quite nice aye. Just had to fill a few small gaps