In an attempt to record my thoughts and because I sold the last SW I'm making another thread. In between phones at the moment so potato pictures to come
I'll start with the AW which I got off mickeyduck in January. I've pretty done nothing to it, I want to leave it stock-ish so I can do stuff to the SW and because I don't think they need much power to be fun.
Changed the wiper blades, apparently, they're now quite uncommon in this design
On the way to get a WOF from drive sure across the road from work the horn died

I was wearing my uniform and because I work in a parts shop I said I'd fix. They let it slide

I went home with a new pair of Japanese 'European' horns made in of China, of course.
Hooked one up to the relay used for the air horn, nothing

Pulled all the air horn stuff out, electrical taped the positive wires up and connected one of the new horns to the factory wires and it worked but of course it's too quiet because something easy can never be too easy. After the run yesterday I was quite motivated and tested both of the OEM horns; only one works. I wonder if I can pull it apart and fix it?
I ended up putting the working one in its stock location (bumper and latch support thing) which required using a magnetic pickup tool in one hand to hold it while squeezing the other in with a bolt. Where does the other one go?
Changed out the oil as the previous stuff was looking blacker than the tyres. For those that care Repsol 10W40 5L fully synthetic, it's SN where's the Valvoline VR1 is a synthetic blend and is SF. I don't always drive hard and I'll probably never race it so the additives of a daily driving oil suits better.
Pulled the sump plug out as you do and of course, the thread on the plug is damaged while the washer looks thinner than my fingernail

. I was a little over full before the run so with the slow dribble I'm about right now

I've got an ACL DP1040M M12 x 1.25 magnetic sump plug arriving tomorrow through work and a plastic washer (ACL DPW2003) to replace it
I wrote the wrong Km on the filter, it's basically this less ~500km
After letting it sit for four months the tyres were still at 30psi when cold so that was the only simple thing that went well
I was forced to clean it after we got really dusty on the run (Unrelated: We got flipped the bird by an angry local for going too fast through the corners

but someone at the gas station gave us a compliment) so I thought I'd tackle two birds with one stone, drying by driving and having a look at the boost level. I busted out this shitty and incorrectly branded boost gauge, I only ever got a maximum of 13psi and it was only for a while when my foot was flat down in third gear. I didn't realise that an SS commodore thought I was trying to race him hopping on the motorway,

he slammed the brakes before the corner while I kept my foot down. Back to boost: most of the time it stays at 10 and then slowly creeps up, I'm reading up what the factory setup is and going to do the normal ABV lines mod. Like my boost gauge cup?
There's some info here about what was done:
http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php? ... 1&p=115400
Things to do:
Go on a rust hunting mission, all the panels, rubbers and whatever else
Investigate where the other horn goes
See if I can fix the other horn
Get a factory radio and map the buttons to a modern radio
Get a rear sway bar and match it to the front one
Get the popups to go back down again
Replace the flasher unit with the new Narva one I got and see if that fixes the intermittent fast indicator
Mod the spare set of tail lights I have with LEDs
DRLs
Get some ADR LED H4s when they hit my supplier
Fix the duct tape lip by putting something flexible there
Swap over some plastics, boot lid and maybe spoiler
Install manual conversion, this automatic is nice though
Finish doing valve clearances on the motorcycle; It is Mid-engined, Rear-wheel drive with 2 wheels