mknz manages to make everything he owns leak

[mknz]

In an attempt to record my thoughts and because I sold the last SW I'm making another thread. In between phones at the moment so potato pictures to come

I'll start with the AW which I got off mickeyduck in January. I've pretty done nothing to it, I want to leave it stock-ish so I can do stuff to the SW and because I don't think they need much power to be fun.

Changed the wiper blades, apparently, they're now quite uncommon in this design

On the way to get a WOF from drive sure across the road from work the horn died I was wearing my uniform and because I work in a parts shop I said I'd fix. They let it slide I went home with a new pair of Japanese 'European' horns made in of China, of course.

Hooked one up to the relay used for the air horn, nothing Pulled all the air horn stuff out, electrical taped the positive wires up and connected one of the new horns to the factory wires and it worked but of course it's too quiet because something easy can never be too easy. After the run yesterday I was quite motivated and tested both of the OEM horns; only one works. I wonder if I can pull it apart and fix it?

I ended up putting the working one in its stock location (bumper and latch support thing) which required using a magnetic pickup tool in one hand to hold it while squeezing the other in with a bolt. Where does the other one go?

Changed out the oil as the previous stuff was looking blacker than the tyres. For those that care Repsol 10W40 5L fully synthetic, it's SN where's the Valvoline VR1 is a synthetic blend and is SF. I don't always drive hard and I'll probably never race it so the additives of a daily driving oil suits better.

Pulled the sump plug out as you do and of course, the thread on the plug is damaged while the washer looks thinner than my fingernail . I was a little over full before the run so with the slow dribble I'm about right now I've got an ACL DP1040M M12 x 1.25 magnetic sump plug arriving tomorrow through work and a plastic washer (ACL DPW2003) to replace it

I wrote the wrong Km on the filter, it's basically this less ~500km

After letting it sit for four months the tyres were still at 30psi when cold so that was the only simple thing that went well

I was forced to clean it after we got really dusty on the run (Unrelated: We got flipped the bird by an angry local for going too fast through the corners but someone at the gas station gave us a compliment) so I thought I'd tackle two birds with one stone, drying by driving and having a look at the boost level. I busted out this shitty and incorrectly branded boost gauge, I only ever got a maximum of 13psi and it was only for a while when my foot was flat down in third gear. I didn't realise that an SS commodore thought I was trying to race him hopping on the motorway, he slammed the brakes before the corner while I kept my foot down. Back to boost: most of the time it stays at 10 and then slowly creeps up, I'm reading up what the factory setup is and going to do the normal ABV lines mod. Like my boost gauge cup?

There's some info here about what was done:
http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php? ... 1&p=115400

Things to do:
Go on a rust hunting mission, all the panels, rubbers and whatever else
Investigate where the other horn goes
See if I can fix the other horn
Get a factory radio and map the buttons to a modern radio
Get a rear sway bar and match it to the front one
Get the popups to go back down again
Replace the flasher unit with the new Narva one I got and see if that fixes the intermittent fast indicator
Mod the spare set of tail lights I have with LEDs
DRLs
Get some ADR LED H4s when they hit my supplier
Fix the duct tape lip by putting something flexible there
Swap over some plastics, boot lid and maybe spoiler
Install manual conversion, this automatic is nice though

Finish doing valve clearances on the motorcycle; It is Mid-engined, Rear-wheel drive with 2 wheels

[GDII]

Horns of this type once they stop working are pretty much a throw away item. I've looked into trying to fix a set of BOMEX horns I found on a Demio at PAP but trying to open them and fix the simple mech inside to make them work is not worth it. Does it rattle when you shake it? Once the mech inside is broken it not easy to fix. Then you have to put the horn back together of which you would have bent up the cover to split the 2 parts.

Take note there are 2 types, low frequency and high.
http://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist. ... 6&fig=8611

[mknz]

Horns of this type once they stop working are pretty much a throw away item. I've looked into trying to fix a set of BOMEX horns I found on a Demio at PAP but trying to open them and fix the simple mech inside to make them work is not worth it. Does it rattle when you shake it? Once the mech inside is broken it not easy to fix. Then you have to put the horn back together of which you would have bent up the cover to split the 2 parts.

Take note there are 2 types, low frequency and high.
http://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist. ... 6&fig=8611

No rattling, I realise. I'm thinking about using the low-frequency aftermarket one with the OEM hi-frequency, I can't think of a horn example which comes as a pair and doesn't have low/hi

Todo
Buy a new rear sway bar and brackets from the states
Get the other fan to shut up with no aircon in it
Fix cigarette lighter

[mknz]

Archive
HKS Manual for over-boost pulley installation containing vacuum line/ABV modification with pictures and labels

Common version found on forums

abvlines.gif (26.89 KiB) Viewed 6999 times

[mknz]

Did the normal ABV mod which was a minor mission, I wish I had smaller hands. Attempted to get the right hand side (RHD drivers side) fan to shut up when it hasn't even been turned on yet and failed.

Decided to test the new mod (on my local backroad drag strip) and I'm pretty sure it's making more boost, it felt on par with my first SW turbo. I'll get another tee from work and vacuum line then we'll see with the boost gauge for sure. I could have just been tired but this time it felt like it pulled in third rather than just slowly dying.

I did notice that as soon as it started losing power at the top end that the auto changes gear into OD. I'm wondering if it was the extra weight I was carrying on the run slowed me down or whether it was the automatic transmission, I couldn't keep up with an automatic NA SW. I know for a fact that when I went on a blat with mickeyduck I was right behind him (and ever so slightly caught up) during our launches when he was in an SC manual but Larry's AW was definitely faster... hmmm. Hopefully, this pulley's now working, then we'll see who's faster

[mickeyduck]

I sure hope you manage to get it running as well as it used to Michael. I think it's basically still over-fuelling (since fitting that engine) but in the short time I drove it after the transplant I never managed to figure out why. With that auto gearbox and the overboost pulley it used to stay right there with an SW turbo in a straight line, and was faster than my manual SC that didn't have an overboost pulley. So if you manage to sort the tubing hopefully it will be back to its old self.

I must confess when I look at an AW's loom or vacuum lines all I see is spaghetti.

I used to disconnect the fan in winter and connect it again in summer. Never managed to figure that one out either.

Definitely make the rear sway bar a priority as it will improve the handling significantly. Just fit a standard pencil-thin AW one and you'll be sweet. Someone must have one for sale...

As you know it's not a perfect car but it is a lot tidier than when I bought it cos I sure threw a lot of good bits at it over the years. More than anything I hope you enjoy the wee beast for a good few years to come. It sure put many a smile on my dial.

[mknz]

Grabbed some verniers and measured the front sway bar it comes to 17.5mm which is in line with the Toyota EPC. Amayama has something for the rear, let's see what happens

[mknz]

On the hunt to see why it's running rich

Only diagnostic code is 11 which is power related

Pulled the first plug to have a geez, black all down the threads with a purple cone (indicates a fuel additive of which I don't know) and slightly white spots on the top. They're BCPR6EP-11 although they have about 0.97mm gap. I might grab some nickel alloy tomorrow to start with a clean slate as platinum have a long life and I have no idea how long they've been in there.

ISCV tested at 16.5 and 16.6 ohm respectively. I also sprayed it with carb clean along with the butterfly valve and cleaned out some crevices.

Amazed to see a stock air system, filter to be addressed tomorrow

Attempted to put the new sump plug in but it's the wrong thread, it's actually 1.00mm pitch. At least I replaced the washer and it should now have the correct amount of oil in it. The only leak should be fixed.

Topped off the corrosion inhibitor

Plumbed in boost gauge again, I'll test drive tomorrow.

[mknz]

Replaced the air filter (Ryco A455) with a new one work had been sitting on for over a decade.

Took it for a drive to a 21st and it was still just seeping. Bumped the torque up on the sump plug to factory 18ftlb, so nerve wracking because I thought I was going to strip it (resistance was only up slowly).

Met with a mate from uni at Hillroad bakery (do recommend, they've been winning awards for 10 years) got stuck behind traffic all the way to maraetai beach, had a good run on the way back to Takanini. There's a road between brookby and Clevedon with some really tight "25" twisties and it's so much fun. Just a note to do it again.

We did a first gear pull to redline and he's slightly faster in an '89 SC Auto. The boost gauge confirmed my suspicion, still only 13psi with my foot flat down in 3rd.

Did errands in Manukau and went home again so it was a long enough trip to check if it's still leaking. Will check in a minute what the oil level is. I hosed the sump with degreaser before I left and at the moment it's still clean so should be good.

[mknz]

I should be hitting 17psi according to http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php? ... 01#p115201 unless I actually have a different pulley than I think. MRP states 175mm should give 14psi though? I double checked my ABV mod and I stuffed it up, IDK how as it's really simple. Next time I drive it should hit ~13psi more easily or hit ~17psi or both. On second look at my boost gauge, the needle sits on the low end of 0 at atmosphere so ~13psi could be ~14psi.

The frame number is AW11-0114355 on the build plate and where it's stamped but no online EPCs seem to recognise it. Need to use AW11-WJPQF. Swaybar stuff on its way.

Oil level didn't change, only slightly above full still.

I forgot to note that I figured out I have the stock exhaust, the only difference being a tip has been welded on.

[mickeyduck]

I should be hitting 17psi according to http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php? ... 01#p115201 unless I actually have a different pulley than I think. MRP states 175mm should give 14psi though?

Yeah I think I might have got a bit muddled the night I posted that Michael. Pretty sure it was 14psi the 170mm pulley gave me eh. I think the boost you're getting is ok it's just something like a bung sensor making it run rich, as if the choke were stuck on / poorly adjusted on a carbed car.

[mknz]

So it's boosting properly now after I fixed a vac leak.
Passed its WOF easy again.
The RHS indicator flashing too fast was just the front light bulb in the bumper finally giving out and it now flashes properly.
Can't run a timing pointer because of the over-boost pulley.
Still need a rear sway bar, I might have to get a front and rear or 12.7mm rear if I can't find one of the factory 14mm ones.
Manual conversion is still not done because I'm waiting on the main clutch pipe and it's because ASL has run out of tube (they're 3 months overdue). I could go to BNT and buy some but that'd be a bit cheeky.
The boss lady motivated to finally clean it after months

TODO:
Replace temp sensor
Kill rust
Rear sway bar
Get some 15s or 16s that will fit RE003s
Swap the better cosmetic bits I have lying around
LED tail light mod
Get another front lip
Change the coolant
Check valve clearances
Investigate battery drain
Investigate slow oil usage

[mknz]

Licence plate bulbs are a pain to remove, the trick is to twist, pull it out the bottom, slide new one in through the bottom, scoop it up with one finger, try and get both fingers on the metal bit to shove it into the holder, and then use your fingers so it can slide. Took me a good 10 minutes.

In good news, I got some 195/50/15 RE003s wrapped around MRS wheels and they make a huge difference, you'll need to remove the pin/dowel on the rear wheels using a 6mm socket but otherwise fit right on. The sidewall is perfectly flat with the rim on the rear and is only slightly puffed on the front (6.5", 6" respectively). I used the Bridgestone 4 for 3 special but because they didn't have any in stock I ended up going to Tony's tyre service and they beat the price by $40 , all up for fitting, balancing, blah blah it was $614.

On today's episode of managing to make everything I own leak:
Looks like the coolant change will be moved up, as today on the run to Tauranga the SC + water pump belt snapped causing me to overheat which I only noticed after a lack of power. I have no idea how hot it got as the temp gauge which normally works perfectly fine was reading nothing probably due to air on it.

For future reference, the belts we got from the Matamata Repco were 5pk975 and 5pk840 which was taken from Charlie's thread.

I need more photos....

EDIT: 5pk975 was perfect sizing and 5pk840 for the alternator is required if you don't have aircon otherwise it's 5pk925

[mknz]

Well after a near-TNR I mean death experience ...

Chucked the belts on and IT'S ALIVE! The heat must have killed the temperature gauge sender because it read 0 the whole time. We definitely bled it properly (same as the SWs), I whipped it hard, the transmission realised it's hot enough (fully up to temperature) to overdrive and it performed better the longer it ran.

Thanks again to Charlie for lending me the tool, giving tools a ride and company. Thanks also to the Matthews for their hospitality. I'm going to get a thank you delivered to the people I broke down right outside of.

Well now I have three temperature gizmos to replace and I sort of did the coolant change but it probably only took 3L of coolant even with spilling it and the bleeder hoses. Seems like it didn't get too hot for too long, luckily.

EDIT: The overflow bottle was still half-full

EDIT 2: Check the wiring, I wonder if the belt breaking broke wires? It certainly cut through insulation on the firewall. I also need to get a 840 belt because the current one has a nick in it. I also need to make myself a tool

[mknz]

Well the family decided to take the multimeter to the bach

The temperature gauge was easy, the belt cracked off the plug and the pin sticking out the back was bent nearly 90 degrees. Here's where it is because the BGB picture is a little vague, it's just to the right of the oil dipstick (on the drivers side facing the passenger side). I taped the plug to stop the crack spreading and stuck it back on.

Bits of the old belt decided to come for a ride

Tried to get the headlights to go down electrically, using the retractor control relay diagnostic guide grounding 8 and 10 turn the lights on but don't actuate the motors like they should (in either direction). Cleaned out the 7.5A RTR fuse contacts and seat, fuse looks fine. I'll need to multimeter to make more progress.

As for the always on fan (drivers side). Only pulling out the No 1 relay turned it off but I suspect that's the power one. I couldn't get that radiator fan switch plug off with my fat hands. It seems like the aircon being removed causes two fans rather than one to stay on. Need the multimeter to test it through the relay wiring

Horn is too quiet, need to use it sometimes when people decide to share lanes will have to wire up the air horn again.

Need to also get a bit of reflective tape, how can people miss a white car?