Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

[mknz]

A guy on the UK FB group makes them. Alan Bryson(?)

[Jabeo]

so a little bit of an update on whats been going on with the car lately, not much has happened i have just been acquiring some parts here and there and helping other people on their cars. The car is running perfectly fine except for the temp gauge which needs a new sensor which i should get onto next year. I have recently finished/graduated studying and have picked up full time IT work beginning in january which means aside from saving, i should have some extra on the side to put towards the car. As some might have seen in this post by me: http://mr2.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=15142 i have picked up a pair of kouki tail lights from a friend in melbourne which i have been in the process of tidying up, still without huge success so i have given up at this point and will return to them at a later date. They look fine from a distance and the clear coat issues would probably go unnoticed by many but as they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder
However the car does look good with them, but im thinking i might really polish up the zenki lights and use those, as i do really like them.

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I have also gone on to pick up a genuine C-one motorsports SW20 spoiler from japan via yahoo auctions. it was listed cheap as an "unknown manufacturer" but i knew what i was looking at. The spoiler arrived within a week of payment in the condition it was listed in. it had some paint damage and one chip in the fibre glass which i plan to repair and fill with fibreglass and resin and then fill in all the defects ready for primer and paint. the spoiler turned out to be for a rev 3+ bootlid and not a rev1/2 lid like tonys green one. with some very minor shaving on the sides it will fit perfectly fine on the lid and not rub on the rev1/2 rear quarter panel wing pieces. i will have to drill new holes for the wing, and when time and money permits i will weld and fill the old holes and repaint those. for now i have some 8mm rubber blanking grommets to fill them. yes its big and in your face, but i love the wing so much and thats what counts i dont expect everyone to like it, some would call it rice lol

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A local mr2 owner that has moved up from christchuch had purchased some tein s tech springs to run on his oem suspension. he doesnt really appear to have much mechanical knowledge or know how at all so i offered to install them for him in return for his old springs, which are a set of cobra lowering springs. it took me all day to do the job, using a rattle gun and crc lubricants on seized nuts and bolts and without a spring compressor. i pretty much did the whole car on my own and needless to say i was pretty f**ked at the end of it. but hey free parts are free parts and i learnt what to do and what not to do. it was also nice to see that when his old springs were installed the brake line mounts on the struts werent slotted out so that was the cherry on top of the work i was doing. never knew i hated cutting with a hacksaw in such a confined space so much The car turned out looking really good, and i am pleased for him as he is happy and he is extremely grateful that i did all the work for him lol.

I dont expect much of a drop at all in height because he didnt really get much, but he advised me that he did notice a much stiffer ride and tighter/better handling which is better than nothing at all in my eyes

As it stands these are my aims to get ready on the car ready for toyota fest, mostly for looks and maybe a slight improvement in handling. will keep the thread updated as i go along.

[thorns]

Nice going. Be interested in seeing the cobras installed as I am looking at grabbing a set in the new year.

[Harten]

Do you need a cert for lowering springs? Those should make your mr2 sit nice with your wheels.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Do you need a cert for lowering springs? Those should make your mr2 sit nice with your wheels.

No cert for lowering springs and not a problem at wof time unless you are somehow sitting on bump stops (which it wont)

[Jabeo]

Do you need a cert for lowering springs? Those should make your mr2 sit nice with your wheels.

No cert for lowering springs and not a problem at wof time unless you are somehow sitting on bump stops (which it wont)

Levi is right, I think they also have to be captive as well? I don't expect the car to lower much at all, but I believe the handling will improve a bit

[GDII]

Do you need a cert for lowering springs? Those should make your mr2 sit nice with your wheels.

As long as they are not cut, damaged, sitting on the bump stops or are not captive when the suspension is at full droop they are fine. If the spring can be rotated easily at full droop the WOF guys can fail them too which is part of them be not captive. Most lowering springs work fine but I have heard of some brands not being captive. Not sure if it was just that spring or set of springs but just need to check when you install them.

[Jabeo]

right so since the last update, i have began working at my new job so the amount of time i have to work on the car has been cut short a little. however this has given me motivation to do stuff after work as well as in the weekends where i was previously a bit lazy when it came to working on the car. It is my 22nd birthday coming up, so my girlfriend gave me my gift early so i could work on my car. she gave a pair of sony 6x9 and a sony 1000watt amplifier. i know that this amp is too much but she wasnt to know, but i will use it anyway and just turn it down some until it makes the speakers run well. beginning this install i decided to remove all the old factory amps on both sides on the car as well as the famed door sill foam that can use issues with rust etc. not really an issue here, but it was a while im in there kind of job. i began by removing the plastics on both sides and then managing to remove the old worn factory speakers in there, held in by 3 10mm bolts. all 3 amps (1 stereo component, 2 sub amps) were held in by 10mm bolts as well. i found it easier to get to these by unbolting the lower seatbelt bolt and once that was done i was able to pull out all of the door sill foam (pictures only show passenger side). here you can also see the shambles of wiring that i can only assume was the product of some botch wiring jobs. i find that splicing clips begin to add confusion into the mix

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The way i plan to set up the sound system is to space out the 6x9 speakers from the lip on the rear storage compartments, centered on the holes that already exist on the face of the box. my reasoning for this is to not disrupt the integrity of the sound by having part of the speaker obstructed by sheet metal. the way i see it the speaker will be in the oem the storage compartments facing out the front of the box where the plastic speaker covers sit, to retain the oem look. i am not a huge fan of mounting the speakers on top of the lids as i think it looks tacky personally. i know there are mixed opinions on 6x9s in these compartments, but i feel this will be the stealthiest way while also making use of the gift i was given. based on the results i will then decide if the inside of the compartments need to be lined or insulated. if the big holes in the metal are still an obstruction for the speakers, i have a dremel to make the holes bigger if needed.

initially i wanted to mount the amp under the passenger seat, but i found out that it wouldnt fit due to clearance issues. i wanted it here to have shorter cable runs and to keep the amp hidden, as i want to keep it stealthy. because of how i wanted it hidden i dont not want to consider the frunk, inside firewall or the boot (the cable runs would be way to long for me). after much thought i went back to the frunk and decided that i would have to do it here much to my disappointment. i plan to put it here at the bottom, as out of the way as possible. it impacts on the battery bracket mount by a little but, so i would like to make an acrylic/wooden mounting board to space it out from there. i would mount the amp to the board on the corners and mount it to the car else where on the board to prevent the amp from grounding itself out. i have power and ground run already, i will run RCA from the head unit to amp and then new speaker wire to my door speakers and the 6x9s

on the drivers side i discovered a silver box where the stereo component amp is on the passengers side. after some discussion with phil we determined that this might have something to do with the oem remote locking system, which is based off of this image that phil sent to me that details the components involved. In the image you can see the silver box labelled as number 3. i already have the remote locking switch on my dash labelled as number 1, and it seems number 2 uses the rear window defoggers as an antennae for the key fob perhaps. this is pretty interesting and would be cool to get working, though wiring is old, messed with and key fobs are pretty costly

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and finally i think i have discovered why my drivers side t top leaks so much... its had a hell of a slicone job done to it both sides have had the classic silicone job done to it. but it seems the drivers side seal is actually being held on by silicone?? i could be wrong but i think it is deteriorating on the corners which is why it leaks so heavily when i wash the car or drive in the rain. frankly its really annoying and i think i might have to source a new t top, as i know the seals are costly. then i could do a new silicone job to that one.

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[Benckj]

Looks like the silicone was applied everywhere apart from where it was needed. I only ever use it on the body seal down in corner on both sides. Helps to have drains clear or else water just backs up until gap relieves into cab.

[Jabeo]

Looks like the silicone was applied everywhere apart from where it was needed. I only ever use it on the body seal down in corner on both sides. Helps to have drains clear or else water just backs up until gap relieves into cab.

yeah but it was only on the right side, on the actual car the silicone has been applied where you would typically see it applied on both sides. I think the seal itself is held on by the silicone on this t top, maybe i might have to source a new one with the seal still attached even if it has the common leak problem, then that one will be easier to fix

[Benckj]

I'd simply try to re-silicone the weather strip areas where leaks occur. It would be worth a try and I'd say has a good chance of success.

I had a question on your frunk components. What are the pressure fittings & parts on the RHS in front of master brake cylinder?


http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/download/file.php?id=18373&t=1

[GDII]

I'd simply try to re-silicone the weather strip areas where leaks occur. It would be worth a try and I'd say has a good chance of success.

I had a question on your frunk components. What are the pressure fittings & parts on the RHS in front of master brake cylinder?


http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/download/file.php?id=18373&t=1

That is an accumulator for Traction Control.

Image 7.
http://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist. ... 5&fig=4708

[Benckj]

I'd simply try to re-silicone the weather strip areas where leaks occur. It would be worth a try and I'd say has a good chance of success.

I had a question on your frunk components. What are the pressure fittings & parts on the RHS in front of master brake cylinder?


http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/download/file.php?id=18373&t=1

That is an accumulator for Traction Control.

Image 7.
http://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist. ... 5&fig=4708

That makes sense as I have never seen before on a MR2. Take it uses vacume pressure to back off TB should any wheel lose grip? Wasn't something that was available on the later models so take it the system did not work very well or was replaced with better EMS logic.

[GDII]

It's very rare on the SW20. I've only seen a few with it. The extra throttle appears to be electrically controlled but I am not sure what this accumulator is for.

[Jabeo]

That makes sense as I have never seen before on a MR2. Take it uses vacume pressure to back off TB should any wheel lose grip? Wasn't something that was available on the later models so take it the system did not work very well or was replaced with better EMS logic.

Yeah its pretty old tech but still also neat to have. its still fully functional and you can feel when it kicks in on gravel or taking off around a corner from a stop. If anyone hasnt seen what the TRC looks like on the throttle body here is a pic of my engine bay with the assembly above the TB itself http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/download/file.php?id=14789