tw2's mr2 - the journey to a clean 2

[tw2]

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Replace the brake bolts since I already had them.

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[tw2]

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[tw2]

Generally looking much better. I had new clips for the brake lines which tidied it up a bit and heaps of new bolts from my parts collection. I couldn't do the large 255Nm nuts up tight enough so I used my impact wrench. Luckily I didn't shear them off but I can't budge them with the breaker bar so probably torqued way more than spec.

The koni gland nuts use a 5mm flat pin wrench. You can buy 4mm ones from mytools.co.nz for about $22. It is the only tool I could find for the job in NZ without making something. I worked surprisingly well. I chucked some medium locktite on the threads for good measure. The car seems to drive really nicely now. I haven't done any spirited driving but it is much more comfortable over bumps.

I thought it might be a bit lower with the 92 springs but it might need some time to settle and my car is lighter than some with a manual rack and stock muffler gone.

[afot]

Looking really AWsome Tom SWeet as!!!
Who's brand were the/are the sway bar links - that the thread got muntered on?? Just for for future knowledge, as I've considered replacing mine... I've looked at/considered the "Adelfi" ones, is it, on ebay - i think at MR2 MR Bens, or what ever his name is...
So did you consider the stock KYB ( O.E.M strut, no???) sway bar mounts a little light weight or do/does the White Line product give them a hard time ?? Because?? Just to learn also, as, you sure do do your homework on stuff/items for sure.
Also your workmanship is "always immaculate" too, congrat's on that, you do so make the effort to do an A1 job of your projects.
I've bought some new strut boots off of Ben but not yet got to putting them in....
Got a new four wheeled distraction I'm/have been playing with.... P.M. on that one, if ur interested in doing so.
Cher.

[tw2]

I got the koni's as they are considered very good. I did consider stock ones and I did consider the Toyota Bilstein black series which I wish I had gone with over this ordeal but oh well.

Upgraded swaybars can sometimes rip the mounts off the chassis (front only) or the strut housings. I already have the chassis reinforcement brackets but it made sense to take care of this side of things while it was apart. Dealing with it breaking would be a massive pain, I think Phill knows.

I'm not sure on the swaybar link brand, it was from twosrus. Definitely not oem anyway. I ordered two new ones from an autoparts place in Auckland. I guess I will find out how good they are. Thanks for the feedback.

[Benckj]

I like the way you re/inforced the sway bar stut mounts. I did something similar and has worked well over last 6 years.

[tw2]

I can't put this job off any longer especially since I am only working 2-3 days per week for the next month.

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And thanks to Keiran... something to get me started, holy crap I forgot how heavy these combos are.

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[mknz]

Jack it up high, I'd aim for 600mm off the ground and get a creeper. The height helps a lot with being able to get light under there as well as jacks to help get the tank in and out. Also be prepared to buy new fuel hoses, even better if you just accept it and cut them (but don't cut the big one if it's good $$$). Getting the turbo out of the way first will be nice since then you can get the fuel stuff disconnected easily.

[GDII]

When did this car become turbo?

[tw2]

Car is still N/A. I literally just picked up the turbo yesterday. I plan to get this walbro installed. Then get some injectors for later on. I won't install the turbo for a while but piece it all together and then eventually install it all and get a dyno tune. I think the stock downpipe might even mate up to the 3sge header supports on either side but I will probably just get a drivenperformance 3" chinese knockoff if they have them. The KO 2.5" downpipes will be completely unaffordable with our current exchange rate.

[tw2]

Jack it up high, I'd aim for 600mm off the ground and get a creeper. The height helps a lot with being able to get light under there as well as jacks to help get the tank in and out. Also be prepared to buy new fuel hoses, even better if you just accept it and cut them (but don't cut the big one if it's good $$$). Getting the turbo out of the way first will be nice since then you can get the fuel stuff disconnected easily.

Thanks I got a 600mm+ jack recently. Hopefully there is enough room or I can go higher. So far I just have the metal heat shields off the firewall and all the undercovers. Tomorrow I will remove all the lines and supports and hopefully get the tank out.

[mknz]

Just be sure you can still reach the bolts when you're under it

[Benckj]

Having done that job in my driveway during winter I feel your pain. When faced with an unpleasant task like FP replacement I like to make as many improvements to the system as possible. One of the suggested mods if going down the forced induction path is to replace the fuel supply line into fuel filter. This is a substantial restriction and after you destroy the nut leading from hardline it makes sense to replace. If I was back at work I could share part numbers and pics but unfortunately I’m at home on my phone.

[GDII]

A 500hp SW20 can run off the stock fuel lines, why can't a far less powered one do it?
My solution to the large nut problem is removing the hard line off the filter, shifting the coolant pipe a little and threading it through. It's not that hard of a job, you just need to know the right way to do it and have some time and 2 scissor jacks if doing it alone. I've done at least 5 of these now. Sucker for punishment? Nah, just the love of MR2s and not letting anything defeat me.

[Benckj]

I think most high hp MR2’s use a surge tank to reduce need for removing this bottle neck. For the lower hp’s it certainly can be used but why not replace if it makes job easier? In my case the hardline nut could only be removed after dropping tank including supply line to filter. It took a 36” pipe wrench to remove so it’s fair to say nut was not going to be used again. By using a new hardline fitting figured might as well change to AN fittings all around including banjo onto filter. Made the job much more straight forward and increased supply pipe size straight through.