tw2's mr2 - the journey to a clean 2

[tw2]

I have a new fuel hanger and supply line as you can see in the photo so if I end up needing to bend it or destroy it somehow, it will all be replaced anyway. Those supply lines are very expensive though so if it is salvageable I will keep it in case someone needs it.

[GDII]

I know but AN fittings are not cheap and if you can avoid spending more money when the upgrade isn't actually helping then why do it. I'm Dutch after all. We don't spend money if we can help it...

[mknz]

You don't need a fuel system if your MR2 never runs

[tw2]

I think the most I will ever be pushing is 300hp (not on the ct26 of course). The stock system is very reliable. I will keep it stock to the fuel filter, then grab a 3 bar FPR and run a single AN line deadheaded at the rail. As few points of failure as possible.

[tw2]

Finally got it out. I used two jacks. I ended up lying on top of the engine pushing it down. It has since had a wash with cold water and dischwash liquid ready for painting tomorrow.

I got a new one of these. They were very expensive so I got this one from toyotapartsdeal. It is designated for "cold climate" for the 3sgte according to toyota here. Anyway it looks the same to me. It also looks like the old one was perfectly fine too. The famous join was actually quite easy for me to undo. Again lying on top of the engine, a 14mm brake line spanner and a 19mm regular spanner with minimal force and it came undone. I think I was lucky.

[tw2]

Underneath looks really good, hardly even any dust, no rust, very exciting.

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Even these two heater line brackets show no signs of recent leaking at all so I will just leave them.

This thing was a mild pain to remove. I should have got new hoses for it but I think they will be ok. I can always replace them later on. I presume it is to equalise the pressures in the tank and allow even filling as it gets full.

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[tw2]

For anyone else, you don't need to drain the coolant, thanks Phill for that advice. The coolant lines move enough with just the mounting bolts undone. I did have to undo the front swaybar mounts to allow the left coolant hardline to drop enough to move it out of the way.

[GDII]

For anyone else, you don't need to drain the coolant, thanks Phill for that advice. The coolant lines move enough with just the mounting bolts undone. I did have to undo the front swaybar mounts to allow the left coolant hardline to drop enough to move it out of the way.

Oh yeah I missed that bit.

Your left side heat pipe is leaking in the same spot they all do. Best look at fixing it now. Unless you don't mind doing the tank again. Told you it wasn't too hard. Lucky your nuts weren't tight!

Right there! You could rubber isolate the mounting point.

SW20 MR2 Leaking Left side heater hose.JPG (80.27 KiB) Viewed 1567 times

That little tank is for the EVAP system. It goes to the charcoal canister then to the throttle body. But it does also help the tank vent for filling fuel as it's connected to the higher points on the tank.

[mknz]

Would highly recommend fixing that heater pipe before it gets worse.

Also you're lucky. That was a total pain for me to undo

[tw2]

What technique would you guys recommend for heater pipe fixing? Just cut with hacksaw and grab some rubber hose? From just before the bracket eliminating it? Need to bead the pipe for the hose? Make a new section with bracket from aluminum or stainless?

[GDII]

I cut out the bracket, made a 'bead' at each end of what was left with pliers and hose clamped in a rubber hose. Only because it was all I could do. It's not leaked in 10 years. Sorry, no photos as this was well before I was documenting my car fixes.

If I was to do it again I may have tried to get the bracket brassed to fill in the problem area but that could fail too. Rubber mounting the bracket could help if it was repaired that way.

[mknz]

My take if you have a rotary tool or a small grinder is cut off the bracket (just the bit that sticks out), wire brush and jb weld the leaky spot, get a rubber p clamp and use that to secure the pipe to the car. That way it shouldn't leak and it shouldn't fatigue at the other brackets since it'd also be supported.

That's probably overkill as it seems all the other common fixes also last (rubber hose replacement, re-beading, jb-welding)

[tw2]

Right so I think I will cut the pipe right next to the bracket. I will get some rubber coated P clamps you mentioned if I can find some. I will grab a short section of some aluminium pipe, flare the ends and join it all together with heater hose. I probably need to replace my heater hoses at the same time. Oh well car will be off the road for another few weeks but I guess there is nowhere to drive to anyway.

I might try fitting the racerX water tree/neck while I am at it.

[mknz]

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/cali ... 95260.html

Might have to extend the bracket on these clamps a bit or rebend them

[tw2]

Those clips should work perfectly, thank you.

Since I have to drain the coolant I thought I would take a look at fitting the water neck. It doesn't fit with the 3sge throttle body, approx 5mm overlap. The lower water tree should work fine. I was thinking of using the throttle body coolant circuit as a future turbo cooling loop. I will use a spare port on the water neck (once I work out how to fit it) to the turbo. Then use the throttle body hose to the bypass hose as the coolant return (Blue arrow). The red arrows are the same hose to the water neck and will be deleted eventually. In the meantime is it ok to simply loop/bypass the throttle body?

Could you guys please help with some anatomy? Is the blue arrow fuel return? I know the fuel feed is the one below it.
Is 1 the coolant temp sensor?
What is the other sensor (2) in the water tree?
What do the lines with the red arrow do, they go to the small thing bolted to the rear firewall? Thanks heaps.

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