tw2's mr2 - the journey to a clean 2

[tw2]

If you're in the south or central of Auckland one day or if a run passes through/near I can drive and tell you. You can just take out the outer tie rod ends and steering rack ends as one piece and either see which sides of each has play or just replace all of them because they're pretty cheap.

Things that affect steering feel:
-Tyres: RE003 is great
-Tie rods in good condition
-the rubber in the steering shaft where it collapses in accident should be in good condition
-steering wheel diameter (angular displacement is constant but you feel the distance tangentially which proportional to diameter)
-steering rack bushes (internal and mounting)
-general suspension being in good condition e.g a wheel bearing doesn't have axial play, wheel nuts aren't loose etc.

Thanks for the advice, I need to look up and see how the system goes together. I haven't had to play around with steering before. I will just order the inner ends as well. I presume toyota is the best place for the bushes? I haven't seen any on aftermarket sites.

[mknz]

I know they did a suspension revision but I wasn't aware it was a huge issue. I have always assumed that whatever speed you go into the corner you will need to exit the same speed. I have only had a couple of times in the past where the front wheels started sliding. I plan to get some koni's, eibach springs and both whiteline swaybars sometime in the future. Should I be going a different route?

I think it's just neutered, not a huge difference but is noticeable; it increases the time you have to recover. In saying that I've never spun an MR2, I have had two SWs with earlier suspension design slide around a few corners and recovered them. I'm definitely not a race car driver nor instructor but I think with a little skid recovery practice that almost anyone could recover a little bit of the rear stepping out.

Those are pretty much universally regarded as good parts. I have the Whiteline bars on my car and have them set to just a bit more than the stock stiffness.

Thanks for the advice, I need to look up and see how the system goes together. I haven't had to play around with steering before. I will just order the inner ends as well. I presume toyota is the best place for the bushes? I haven't seen any on aftermarket sites.

Cool. For stock yes, I think that you can get some suspension bushes from Nolathane locally which are normally stiffer (if you get them then get the self-lubricating ones).

[GDII]

Yes it is a G, 1991. I had a 90 G limited followed by a 94 turbo quite a few years ago. This time I wanted a very basic sports car for throwing around. I wanted the most basic stereo, I will replace the head unit (has a fusion one currently), door (not sure what they are) and B pillar speakers (definitely look stock). I never liked the stock "sub" behind the passenger seat but I really liked the storage. For some reason although the turbo was much faster I didn't like the powerband and how the torque came on or the threat of needing further mods. My other car is fast enough so I figured I would go a different way with this one.

I know they did a suspension revision but I wasn't aware it was a huge issue. I have always assumed that whatever speed you go into the corner you will need to exit the same speed. I have only had a couple of times in the past where the front wheels started sliding. I plan to get some koni's, eibach springs and both whiteline swaybars sometime in the future. Should I be going a different route?

The only reason the suspension got changed is due to inexperienced drivers and media. Mid engine cars have a unique way to drive them. You know how to drive one so not an issue but when you come from a FWD or a RWD that is a bit more predictable the MR2 can be a bit of a handful if driven in the same way as those cars. Just adjust your driving style and they are a good car. Not as forgiving but that's no fun.

Stereos in the MR2 can be a rather polarising topic. The basic system that your car has wires directly to the speakers with thick wires. So the only downside to the stock tape or CD player is the old tech and limited adjustablity. The 'better' stereo in the G-Limited has tiny little signal wires from the head unit to the amps which if used to upgrade the system is the major weak link. So the best thing to do is run a modern unit directly to the speakers or to a modern amp. Up to the person on what it is they want from the stereo for use or just looks. Both ways will work but have their pros and cons.

I know what you mean about the power band although I have not driven a stock GEN3 3SGTE, only a stock GEN2 3SGTE and modified GEN2 3SGTE with lightened flywheel and CT20b. They are a bit slow off boost vs the NA but once you are on boost I found the modified GEN2 3SGTE was so much better. The stock GEN2 3SGTE was a bit meh as the CT26 just ran out of puff far too quick.

For suspension, those are a good combination for a good streetable package that will do well on the track or autocross. The Whiteline bars have 3 way adjustable front and rear so allow for some tuning along with the Koni inserts to make for a good setup that you can change depending on the use of the car at the time. I know not having a rear swaybar feels odd and makes the car less responsive to turn in. Just did some testing last night. Keeping my Whitelines setup to medium front and soft rear.

[Jabeo]

Oh cool you live in Hamilton, should come to club fest with us on June 2nd. Hopefully i see you cruising around some time

Sounds good. I will certainly try and make any waikato and maybe BOP events.

sick dude, would be keen to help anytime should you need it, im always down to learn some stuff off someone

[mickeyduck]

From what I have read, been told and seen, I'd recommend you find a '92 rear cross member and trailing arms and swap them in. It was a change made to reduce the tendency to snap spin. I've seen a '90 SW snap spin under hard braking (on a straight) and park perfectly at the side of the road behind me (in a big cloud of smoke). Pretty damned funny. It earned applause from bystanders...

I'm a tad jealous you have no power steering. I would love that stuff in my SW though I have a feeling there may be incompatibilities with other bits that bolt up on my 94.

[GDII]

From what I have read, been told and seen, I'd recommend you find a '92 rear cross member and trailing arms and swap them in. It was a change made to reduce the tendency to snap spin. I've seen a '90 SW snap spin under hard braking (on a straight) and park perfectly at the side of the road behind me (in a big cloud of smoke). Pretty damned funny. It earned applause from bystanders...

I'm a tad jealous you have no power steering. I would love that stuff in my SW though I have a feeling there may be incompatibilities with other bits that bolt up on my 94.

You do realise that 90% of SW20s in NZ are GEN1 with this suspension setup? So it's not an issue really. Just don't drive like you stole it.

And non power steering racks are slower than the power steering. The power steering function slows down as you get faster so what you feel when you drive a power steering car is better than the non power steering due to a faster rack. AW11 obviously never had power steering but they are a much lighter car. And yes I have driven both versions of the SW20. I'd even want to swap in an MR-S pinion gear to increase the speed of the power steering rack even more.

[tw2]

Cool. For stock yes, I think that you can get some suspension bushes from Nolathane locally which are normally stiffer (if you get them then get the self-lubricating ones).

Is this the same for the AW11? I see all the references are for 85-89 mr2 but they *look* the same as the sw20 picture from the (very high resolution) BGB.

[tw2]

From what I have read, been told and seen, I'd recommend you find a '92 rear cross member and trailing arms and swap them in. It was a change made to reduce the tendency to snap spin. I've seen a '90 SW snap spin under hard braking (on a straight) and park perfectly at the side of the road behind me (in a big cloud of smoke). Pretty damned funny. It earned applause from bystanders...

I'm a tad jealous you have no power steering. I would love that stuff in my SW though I have a feeling there may be incompatibilities with other bits that bolt up on my 94.

I was fine either with or without power steering. I like the lack of stuff to break, and one less fluid that needs leak repairs or occasional changing. Driving around I don't notice anything negative. Getting in and out of the tight garage is slightly more difficult than it could be but other slow speed maneuvering, carparks etc absolutely no difference. From what I can tell, this is the lightest possible SW20 from factory.

The fastest I have ever been around corners has been following you so I will leave the snap spin prevention in your capable hands

[tw2]

Stereos in the MR2 can be a rather polarising topic. The basic system that your car has wires directly to the speakers with thick wires. So the only downside to the stock tape or CD player is the old tech and limited adjustablity. The 'better' stereo in the G-Limited has tiny little signal wires from the head unit to the amps which if used to upgrade the system is the major weak link. So the best thing to do is run a modern unit directly to the speakers or to a modern amp. Up to the person on what it is they want from the stereo for use or just looks. Both ways will work but have their pros and cons.

I know what you mean about the power band although I have not driven a stock GEN3 3SGTE, only a stock GEN2 3SGTE and modified GEN2 3SGTE with lightened flywheel and CT20b. They are a bit slow off boost vs the NA but once you are on boost I found the modified GEN2 3SGTE was so much better. The stock GEN2 3SGTE was a bit meh as the CT26 just ran out of puff far too quick.

For suspension, those are a good combination for a good streetable package that will do well on the track or autocross. The Whiteline bars have 3 way adjustable front and rear so allow for some tuning along with the Koni inserts to make for a good setup that you can change depending on the use of the car at the time. I know not having a rear swaybar feels odd and makes the car less responsive to turn in. Just did some testing last night. Keeping my Whitelines setup to medium front and soft rear.

The fusion head unit it has, does have USB but sometimes cuts out and it looks fairly bad. I think a basic mid-range pioneer with USB and I think they all come with CD as well (I am sure I have a few of those still) will do well. I used to do the whole amp(s), sub(s), heaps of wiring, weight etc but since discovering hifi at home (good floorstanding speakers, high quality amp, DAC etc) the car is never going to be a good environment for spending heaps of money on audio. I had an amp in the 94 gen 3 but I can't say I noticed much over a well matched head unit speaker combo without amplifier.

I had a t3/t4 on my old gt4 followed by an equivalent gt3071 size billet turbo. Off boost driving was terrible but the mid/top end was fantastic. If my 3sge pops a bearing or similar I think a 1mz-fe will find its way into the engine bay. Higher but limited top end but heaps of low down torque makes for a lot of fun.

With the whitelines... the hole at the end is for the stiffest setting? and the holes closer in toward the body swaybar mounts is the softer settings?

[mknz]

Cool. For stock yes, I think that you can get some suspension bushes from Nolathane locally which are normally stiffer (if you get them then get the self-lubricating ones).

Is this the same for the AW11? I see all the references are for 85-89 mr2 but they *look* the same as the sw20 picture from the (very high resolution) BGB.

Apologies, they don't do they SW yet. Somebody else does and I can't remember who.

Also

Antiroll_Bar2.svg.png (63.84 KiB) Viewed 2184 times

[tw2]

All good. I found these, quite pricey though. Then again I didn't get a price from Toyota so it might not be any different.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-MR2-SW2 ... SwU4FaLjLo

[Jabeo]

All good. I found these, quite pricey though. Then again I didn't get a price from Toyota so it might not be any different.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-MR2-SW2 ... SwU4FaLjLo

Roughly the same price on here too for the same bushes https://www.mr2-ben.co.uk/products/228

[tw2]

I will add them to the list for later on.

Anyway I explored the aerial problem a bit more. This was my issue. This seal had partially fallen inside the spoiler.

It actually has a metal brace the screws inside the spoiler piece. I guess this is why there are odd flecks of red coming through the paint in places, I am guessing this is their primer colour for the whole car.

This hole is 35mm if removing the aerial all together and using a blanking grommet.

However it is sealed as it goes through the body underneath so it is actually completely waterproof.

Except if there is a kink in the drainage hose that comes out below the boot. Mine was completely dry but some brown liquid came out when I un-kinked it.

Aerial problem003.jpg (292.77 KiB) Viewed 2170 times

So I am satisfied that it is waterproof and I will look for a rubber blanking grommet to clear seal in there sometime and remove the aerial all together. Just make sure when you put the spoiler piece back on that the nut goes on smoothly. Mine didn't and I ended up having the fitting coming out the spoiler and making a bit of a mess. A new stainless nut and a rubber washer from my long gone gt4's valve cover screw worked perfectly.

[85AW20v]

..... so never experienced the short arms handling characteristics.

Hey Phill, to overcome this, you just need to move your seat forward a few notches......

[GDII]

..... so never experienced the short arms handling characteristics.

Hey Phill, to overcome this, you just need to move your seat forward a few notches......

If I move it too far forward I hit my head on the roof... Can't win either way.
Or......