tw2's mr2 - the journey to a clean 2

[tw2]

To fit these sort of speakers a lot of material needs to be removed from the door cards. Just in case this can help anyone. I didn't touch the very lower edge of the corner of the door so I don't know if a previous owner has rearranged this or not.

Otherwise, foam baffles, MDF spacer, dynamat and speaker. Came together nicely, just took a whole day of trial and error. It sounds fantastic.

[tw2]

Condenser is in. The foglight bolts held me up for a whole day. Unfortunately despite trying to carefully drill them out it turned into a mess. I ended up destroying the plastic mounts so I will have to make some metal reinforcements for them sometime. Really crap design from Toyota. If they were normal bolts you could twist the heads off and fix it afterwards. The other issue was two of the bolts that hold the undercover at the front bumper. I ended up hacksawing through them and luckily left the plastic cover relatively unscathed.

[tw2]

Rust treated a couple of suspicious areas including the mating surface for the right quarter panel. Should arrest any further corrosion until I have it resprayed in a few years.

Dynamat finally arrived so that will be the next job once the A/C is fixed and working.

[tw2]

I found removing the bumper was actually quite easy apart from the foglight bolts- definitely take care of those before you touch anything else. I saw a couple of guides say to take the headlights apart. To me this sounded like a total pain especially as the access hole the allow you to get to is tiny. I just removed the front only of the wheel well guards. It allows you perfect access to the two nuts that hold the bumper on next to the alignment pins. You can also easily undo the two 10mm bolts in front of the headlights, you don't even need the lights up. Here is a schematic of how the those alignment pins fit together. Note that the picture inside the quarter panel is of the right side and the bumper photo is of the left side.

[tw2]

Door panel off, plastic barrier to be removed

You definitely want a proper roller tool, it is 100% worth the cost. It is very easy to cut yourself on this stuff and the tool makes it a piece of cake to smooth out and get the air out from underneath.

I aimed for 50% coverage inside the outer door panel. You can see the original sound deadening material. I chose to leave it as I don't think it is going anywhere.

[tw2]

Triangular bracket replaced, this should eliminate the wind noise. Belt moulding replaced which I can already tell has stopped the window rattling around when half down. The belt molding is easy to get out, undo the screws, one at each end of the rubber molded covers (located at each end of the door). Then there is a single screw securing the front of the molding and a single clip at the back. Then it just pulls up.

[tw2]

I was aiming for 90% coverage of the door inner panel and eliminating any holes where possible. It acts as a weather shield so the plastic cover is no longer needed.

[GDII]

Looking good. Good to see you've been able to get the window sill trim. Hopefully the new seals get rid of the wind noise.

[tw2]

Looking good. Good to see you've been able to get the window sill trim. Hopefully the new seals get rid of the wind noise.

Yes completely. I have only done the right door, I lost 5dB in the process average on chip seal at 100km/h. I can't detect any noise whatsoever through the door now. Obviously there will be some but it is imperceptible over the rest of the road and engine noise. I can now hear a tiny whistle from the left door I never knew existed before.

I will do the left door over the next couple of weeks. Then it will be the big job of pulling the carpet and doing the rest of the cabin.

[Benckj]

I always intended to install a similar product (Fatmat) on the inside of the doors like you did. Already did the floor, firewall and behind rear speakers plus insulated above front wheel arches. Interested to see how well it work for you.

[tw2]

I always intended to install a similar product (Fatmat) on the inside of the doors like you did. Already did the floor, firewall and behind rear speakers plus insulated above front wheel arches. Interested to see how well it work for you.

How did you find the noise reduction? I will also be putting sound blocking foam backed vinyl on the floor and firewall.

[Benckj]

I didn't find it help a great deal. Tyres and road surface made the biggest change.

[tw2]

Did the left door this weekend. I think I did a better job. The belt moldings and side triangle pieces took about 15 mins to install with my new found experience. The dynamat coverage was better too. The 92+ tweeter covers are a lot bigger. Finally got those out and the new door bezels that everyone breaks.

[tw2]

[tw2]

Finally removed the carpet to get the noise deadening job under way. Here is a link to the only thread you will need, it is simple https://www.mr2oc.com/63-interior-modif ... arpet.html The foot rest has two screws in it (yes they are plastic with a matching surface to the rest of the foot pad). Mine unscrewed ok but you need to pull up on the rest while you unscrew. Lots of people just rip it off by pulling the carpet if it won't unscrew. Removing headliner https://www.mr2oc.com/63-interior-modif ... liner.html

It was interesting to see what they had already done from the factory. There is a significant amount of vibration dampening material in there already, mainly the floor pans. However I am pretty sure a good coverage of dynamat can improve on this crusty crap and will certainly reduce heat transfer significantly. It was a bit good and a bit sad to see that the firewall carpet was pretty well engineered for 80's tech. The jute is terrible but serves its purpose (decoupling the vinyl from the metal so it can vibrate and absorb sound freely); there is a thick vinyl layer already as a sound blocker and some more crust sound deadening on the metal. I am not sure whether I will double up on the vinyl or just try and add it to the places it is lacking. There might be minimal gains in this area but I am convinced the dynamat will reduce some of the engine vibration coming through.

The better news is there are areas with no vibration attenuation at all on the floor and sides and no vinyl anywhere for road noise, only some crappy jute. I think I can reduce the road noise significantly. I also have some self adhesive close cell foam on its way for the roof. I will drop the headliner later in the week and dynamat/foam it. This stops echo and is much lighter than vinyl so will actually stay on the ceiling. Everything I got from here https://www.carbuilders.com.au/mass-noise-liner They are on trademe with free shipping from Australia- but not free customs/gst so I picked up dynamat locally so I wouldn't exceed the limit.