The MR2 Owner's Club of New Zealand

True. The 3SGE is more responsive than the GEN2 3SGTE from down low which will make a street car feel fast. It's definitely something worth doing if you have the time, spare funds and patience to finish it.

This was one of my ideas early on but didn't think it was achievable early on with my level of skill and not having tools to do so. It's going to end up quite good if the engine holds together.

The 3SGE block has machined faces for oil squirter already, the rods are the same and stronger than the GEN4 rods so better. Same crank.

Just come back from a business trip in the US. Obviously picked up some souvenirs

tw2 wrote:I know of two others who have done the 3sge turbo. Both looked like a fantastic street setup, very responsive. Both ran completely stock engine. Apart from higher compression pistons, oil squirters and a couple of other things the 3S engines are apparently the same. Over 20psi on E85 caused the head to lift but the block still held together. I am planning 10-12psi which should be equivalent cylinder pressures to something like 15psi at 9.0:1 compression. The cams, ports and intake design are superior to the gen 2 3sgte.

If I wanted to keep everything stock then I would probably go for a 2GR or gen 4 3sgte but I want to try a newer turbo design and EMS.

I loike dis idea sir. Any thoughts on engine management? Link?

rajkumar wrote: I loike dis idea sir. Any thoughts on engine management? Link?

Yes, link G4 the one that fits inside the stock ecu housing. Plug and play I believe +/- a couple of extra wires and I will use their map and IAT sensors (stock ones are probably a bit old). Then it is just a case of finding some top feeds that fit the 3sge fuel rail. The rail is infinitely bigger than the 3sgte one so makes sense to use it. I want to use a new OEM FPR from a 3sgte but they don't make them anymore. Then if I get all that working perfectly in NA form some fabrication can begin.

tw2 wrote:

rajkumar wrote: I loike dis idea sir. Any thoughts on engine management? Link?

Yes, link G4 the one that fits inside the stock ecu housing. Plug and play I believe +/- a couple of extra wires and I will use their map and IAT sensors (stock ones are probably a bit old). Then it is just a case of finding some top feeds that fit the 3sge fuel rail. The rail is infinitely bigger than the 3sgte one so makes sense to use it. I want to use a new OEM FPR from a 3sgte but they don't make them anymore. Then if I get all that working perfectly in NA form some fabrication can begin.

The 3SGE and 3SGTE ECUs do not use the same pinout. You will need to repin some stuff to get it working. You can use the OEM MAP sensor wires for the new sensor but best to wire in a new IAT and drill and tap into the manifold after the throttle body. Best buy an aftermarket FPR as that way you know you are getting the right pressure and you can add a gauge to it for tuning and/or a sensor for the ECU. The fuel rail might look bigger but the internal diameter might not be enough.

Underfuel your engine and BOOM! Melted pistons are not your friend.

The fuel rail has a much larger bore. I have had one in my hands in the past. Yes they have several minor differences the most obvious being the AFM vs MAP but relatively speaking it is more or less plug and play. When I compare it to wiring a megasquirt to run my st185 many years ago with a custom crank trigger and wasted spark at least.... that one started first turn of the key.

The OEM 3sgte FPR is accurate and much smaller than aftermarket options with fuel line going all over the place. Pressure is easily checked with a temporary t fitting. But since I won't be able to get one, I will likely use an aeromotive one. There is no need to run higher than stock fuel pressure unless you are compensating for undersized injectors which is a dangerous bandaid at best.

The AFM goes out the window when you install the LINK on the 3SGTE. The wiring I know about is fuel pump and fuel switching so you will need to swap out some pins on the 3SGE loom to get it working. Not hard, just has to be done.

Why can't you get an OEM 3SGTE FPR? There will be plenty of used ones floating around.

GDII wrote:The AFM goes out the window when you install the LINK on the 3SGTE. The wiring I know about is fuel pump and fuel switching so you will need to swap out some pins on the 3SGE loom to get it working. Not hard, just has to be done.

Why can't you get an OEM 3SGTE FPR? There will be plenty of used ones floating around.

I am aware of the AFM issues, they also have the temperature probe incorporated into the unit. Luckily the wiring and sensor location on the 3sge is much easier to work with by comparison. I know the stock FPR's pretty much never fail but at 27 years old I would prefer new even if it means I have to go aftermarket. It is a bit hard to appreciate but I found some of my old pictures, I sold the rail years ago but it is at least 10mm inside (probably much more).

Put the new ignition leads in. The denso set is identical in length to stock. Only difference is the lack of the round "pull" things which I don't care for much and the denso aren't numbered by cylinder. Comes with dielectric grease and another distributor to coil lead in case you are running a coil with a standard plug. These are the US$49 ones from twosrus. Much better than NZ$180 through toyota. It is the "91/92 MR2 turbo" set. https://twosrus.com/catalog/product_inf ... cts_id=451

Radiator removed, good news is there is only surface rust so I don't need new one.

I have a full hose kit on the way. The leaking was due to a torn O-ring in the stop cock. Of course I want to address a pile of minor issues so I was always going to pull it all to pieces. Where the red arrow is, there shouldn't be any possible leak here right?

On a complete whim I already ordered two new rubber "feet". I am definitely glad I did now. The top mounts can be wire brushed and rust treated but these bottom mounts and rubber inserts are going to need a bit of work. Very glad I found it. Toyota NZ's price is very high but I got some parts from toyotapartsdeal in washington via youshop which is much better. Top mounts here are $125 each, bottom are $55. I will also pull the AC condenser out and clean all the crap from around it. My only remaining issue is getting two of the bolts out from under the very front undercover. One has a destroyed mount and is spinning. The other has a ruined head. I am having trouble getting anywhere with drilling.

The coolant will be leaking around the o-ring and out of the bleeder hole and making its way to around the bleeder body. Gravity is messing with your head. Clean it up and inspect for cracks but it should be fine.

GDII wrote:The coolant will be leaking around the o-ring and out of the bleeder hole and making its way to around the bleeder body. Gravity is messing with your head. Clean it up and inspect for cracks but it should be fine.

Thanks, anything in particular you think I should flush the radiator with? Just water or something to try and dissolve some of the crap coating the walls inside? It's not particularly sludgy but while it is out...

Just run the hose through it from right to left which is the opposite direction the coolant normally flows. Then run it back the other way.

My coolant system wasn't looked after so when I did mine it was still having brown water coming out 15min later.