The long road to V6 turbo AW11

[Mr-Paulio]

So I put the AW away for a bit as I was getting sick of it. And I started work on the Rav mud buggy.
Glad I did because I guess I needed time to clear my head. I couldn't figure out why a reasonably new water pump would just stop pumping. And I was dreading the job anyway So I started further investigation. 1st point. 3VZ uses a bypass thermostat. So removing that probably only makes things worse. I tested the old one in boiling water and it seemed fine. But for peace of mind fitted a new one anyway. I also discovered with the cap off water quickly overflows out of the engine. And also the bleed on the top of the radiator has suction when the engine is running. Stop the engine and water pours out.
So, I started to wonder if there was a blockage somewhere? What area could block that easy? And why? The radiator perhaps? So I disconnected the hose from the engine to the radiator....

Perhaps it was this?!!
I couldn't have imagined this happening either though to be fair!
This is an inner lining of my radiator hose. The one that blew off. I refitted it in the car in a very awkward and hard to see spot. (Between the alternator and fire wall) Instead of removing the full section. I regret this now!
So it seems the inner lining came loose and blocked the end of the hose joiner!
Now, I probably should have replaced this hose. But its Sunday and I did managed to trim that end down okay. So far so good! No overheating. (Yes that may also bite me in the arse later, watch this space)

But fingers crossed I can go back on to mods now rather than repairs!!!

[ClanFever]

What does the outside of the hose look like? Is there any indication to this happening? The last thing you think of blocking a system is the systems own hosing/piping...

[Mr-Paulio]

What does the outside of the hose look like? Is there any indication to this happening? The last thing you think of blocking a system is the systems own hosing/piping...

Yeah I know right. I never would have guessed this. Just lucky I decided to blow water through the radiator lines. And glad I didn't start tearing out the water pump!

I planned to go for another test drive today make sure we are all good. But got busy at work and put it off too long. Now its raining!!

[mickeyduck]

I had a similar thing happen too, many years ago Paul. I've found that if you ease one side of the rubber hose over the steel radiator tube first, so as to ensure the steel tube is inside the rubber hose, then carefully ease the rest of the hose over the tube, this kind of thing doesn't occur. If the hose is too tight to be readily fitted, you can smear the inside of it with a detergent solution to help it slide over the steel tube. Can also help to soak the end of the hose in a cup of boiling water for a minute before applying the detergent. I have an old small flat bladed screwdriver which I filed down until it is all rounded edges and I can insert it to help ease the rubber hose over the steel tubing if necessary.

If instead you try to fit the hose by having it meet the steel tube on all sides at once (entire circumference mating to the steel tube in one go) then you're more likely to catch a bit of the hose's inner and when you push hard to try to get the thing on, you end up doing what's happened here from the looks and peeling the inner of the rubber hose from the rest of itself, so it forms this blockage.

Anyway FWIW that's my experience and my way of avoiding a recurrence.

Glad it didn't naff your nice new engine mate!

[Mr-Paulio]

Thanks Charlie, engines not that new really. Just boosted now. But all good I was watching it close. The real reason this happened was just the awkward place I fitted the join. Right between the engine and fire wall. Super tight. I should have taken the entire hose out and done it out of the car and put it back. The things you learn!

Anyway, all good now. I seem to be retaining all the fluids in the car where they are supposed to be!

[Mr-Paulio]

So I think I've worked out all the bugs.... (crosses everything while knocking on wood)
And worked through my list of things to do.
Boost control however is a no go. Turns out on gate alone the boost is 16psi. So that is now my low and high boost setting!
Anyone want to buy a near new Mac valve?

Final item I wanted to complete to hide the wiring and crap was a new boot panel.
I used some CAD

20200801_170900.jpg (504.38 KiB) Viewed 4305 times

(Cardboard aided design)

Left over (real) Bride material from the BlackRat, and dyed it black.

Beautiful!!

[Mr-Paulio]

Oh, and when I've got this one all buttoned up.
And sorted the leaks on the SDub as well.

Project number 3, Mud Buggy!!
20200704_100904.jpg
Not MR2 though, sorry

Well no MR2 work, just thrashing. Happy with them both.... for now.
Just been working on project #3.

[ClanFever]

Was that a Rav4?

[Mr-Paulio]

Was that a Rav4?

Was....

[Mr-Paulio]

Okay I haven't yet moved on from the "Rav?"

... But, I started some future work on the ADub.
The current engine which I turbocharged is completely stock bottom end with near 200,000km's. Low for a Camry engine, but probably limited life when I have over double the power output!!
Also I have come into some cash that can bypass the family account and go straight to my MR2 fund!
So I have started to tear down my spare blocks in preparation for a fresh rebuild spare engine.

In doing so, I started with my old NA +300k's engine that dropped compression in only one cylinder. And I think I know why...

So, I have done my research and I have found reasons why this would happen (middle cylinder BTW) But its a bit hard to be 100% sure as the pictures on the Web all look different. Mostly due to the design of the piston. But I am fairly sure I know what's gone on here.
That said I am keen to hear peoples thoughts before I close this file on this. What do you think ??

[Mr-Paulio]

Its been awhile, but I made another vid of some old footage....



Might start getting back into this, plenty of new stuff to do!

[Mr-Paulio]

So where are we at....
Well teething issues plagued me! Everything seemed to leak. So I decided to drop the engine and redo what I could properly and with easier access. As the engine take me sub 2hrs to remove now it wasn't a big deal. But I've pulled it so many times the last few years I'm quite over it. For that reason a job that should have taken 2 days has now taken about 2 months because I was so unmotivated!
Anyway, perhaps that was a good thing. As it gave me time to reseal and allow everything to dry nicely before moving on to the next component. Step, by, slow, step.

Then, in true fashion first start up was fine but the car made some nasty noises on the next start up...

All torqued properly. But I guess you remove a bolt enough times and torque it back up enough times it will give up eventually. Luckily I managed to extract the bolt and retime the engine without removing it! Thank God!!

So the latest is the car is running and doesn't leak a drop of anything! Oil leaks sorted, CV boots sorted.
I even added the bleeder to the ali rad and that seems to have helped with temperature control.

Certainly was air bubbles in there. This could be the reason for radiator leaks? Perhaps the steam pressure pushing out. Anyway, that's all sorted now!

I also reinstalled my oil cooler to help reduce temps. Probably required more now with the turbo!

I went for a few quick rips and built up to a maiden voyage (its seemed like it was a maiden voyage again!)
45 mins in to my big drive and this happened

Driver side axle popped out. Missing carrier bearing retainer clip! I put it back in on the side of the road but decided not to risk driving it further as I had no idea how much smurf blood had bled.

So back to her natural habitat!

Parts were reasonable from Toyota but 9 weeks away!
Luckily I had a spare bearing, rubber tipped bolt and with help from a facebook page received a new clip in the interim. Thanks guys!

All back together and up and running! Again!!

And now I also have a wideband installed and the tacho fixed (not sure if I mentioned before but when I turned the tach output on, on the ECU it would over fuel. So left it off)
All and all I am happy with it right now. And damn I missed driving that weapon!!

But of course there are still things to do. My coil pack bracket has come loose due to some stripped threads. Should be sorted easy this weekend. And small exhaust leaks before the turbo. I'm trying to get some MLS gaskets instead of the fibrous ones. And some better HT bolts, should solve that.

Any advice where to go and look would be appreciated as I am struggling ATM.

Meanwhile, sick of this car being down and since I am down sizing my fleet (check trade me, SW and AW for sale) I will start another spare engine build on the side. First parts just arrived...

I considered some upgrades also. Porting, cams, perhaps a full rebuild. Of course that won't be a quick swap should I need it. As I'll need a retune. So I'll likely just get another junk yard 3VZ and leave the bottom end alone and the heads stock. As per before. I've seen these engines handle 500hp so shouldn't be an issue anyway.

More to come as it comes

[Mr-Paulio]

More new spare parts today!

[Mr-Paulio]

So,
I got some new copper exhaust gaskets made up.

These should cut the mustard I expect.
Best part is they were pretty cheap really I thought. $10 each!
I kind of regret not getting more made actually!
But if they work out well I'll be going back to get a few spares.
http://www.gasketspecialtiesltd.co.nz

[GDII]

That's pretty cool! Do you really need spares if they work? Those other gaskets aren't really that good. Never use them on a downpipe our you will just blow them apart right away.