Pureadrenalins Race MR2

[Benckj]

Lots of braided hose & wiring work. Interested in seeing how you get on with COP and the EMS.

[pureadrenalin]

And all that braided hose is being removed and thrown away. Its all rubber, and I have all new Teflon braided hose for the fuel system for alcohol compatibility.

[pureadrenalin]

Finally made it to the dyno after a few false starts.
Still a bit of work to go on the car before it's ready for the rally, and another hour or so on the dyno till finished.
Still, its making more than I thought we would get out of it.
Its going to feel like a different car do drive

[pureadrenalin]

well after a really good day on the dyno last Saturday, a bit of a touch up dyno on Monday, the head gasket decided to throw its toys out of the cot, so Tuesday ment:







But after a bit of "massaging" of the wastegate flow path with a die grinder to be able to lower the boost a little, I've now been back to the dyno an SUCCESS!


nothing quite like some trunk mount goodness, that's then ducted between the rear lights






50kw more at the wheels than pre-modifications

[chief1eye]

Hi. What was the boost pressure for your dyno run at 239kw?

[pureadrenalin]

17psi.
not to shabby for a modified CT26.

[chief1eye]

Thats pretty good. Can you give a quick summary of your mods over stock?

[pureadrenalin]

Can you give a quick summary of your mods over stock?

Geez, how long do you have.

Do not add up how much all this costs, and DO NOT SHOW MY WIFE!

GEN 3 Head
HKS 264 cams
engle valve springs
RacerX straight runner intake manifold (gen3 TB)
RacerX fuel rail
1000cc injectors
3" K&N intake filter
3" ali intake pipe

Caldina coil on plug system
RacerX Coil Valve Cover Adpater Plate

CT26 with a T04e compressor wheel
waste gate flapper removed and routed to a 38mm turbosmart external gate.
3" KO R1 stainless exhaust

GEN2 Block
wiesco forged pistons
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
ARP rod bolts
Stock rods
Gen3 oil pump/sump
cometic 1.3mm metal head gasket

External amsoil dual bypass oil filter system
Trunk mount intercooler
Remote oil cooler (in stock intercooler position)

Fuelab fuel regulator
Fuelab 6 micron fuel filter
E85 content sensor
Teflon braded fuel line
380lph external fuel pump

Link G4+ storm ecu

Running E30 fuel

custom under dash heater
new power/relay board, all mill spec wiring
Deutch connectors, bulkhead plug
VEI dual gauges
Rallysafe GPS install
Cusco 2-way LSD
5 puck ceramic solid center clutch
Urethane bushes everywhere
Urethane engine mounts
Uprated tie rods
Full MSNZ homologated roll cage
Racetech 4009W seats

235 front 255 rear NT01's
BC red coil overs
Stock Calipers
Endless N45S brake pads
Motul RBF 600 brake fluid




There will be more I can't quite think of off the top of my head. Plenty of other customization.

[Benckj]

Very nice.
Did you work out what caused the HG to pop?

[pureadrenalin]

Very nice.
Did you work out what caused the HG to pop?

Na, not really. Just didn't like 20psi I guess.
We had run more pressure before, but not with an Ethanol blend. That will up the combustion pressures.

[mickeyduck]

Hey Garnett what's the "custom under dash heater"...? I need to sort a demister for my SW...

[pureadrenalin]

Hey Charlie,
I installed an aftermaket under dash heater from a company that I found in Australia http://speedyairspares.com.au/
I had a couple of stainless steel nipples welded on to the stainless lines that come up from under the car to the radiator.
I've also now just installed (haven't tried it out yet) a Subaru Legacy water to air intercooler water pump, to force a little more water thru the core.
I was just relying on the resistance of flow thru the radiator to force water thru this heater, but not enough goes thru to do much.

[mickeyduck]

Sure looks light and compact. Thanks for the link and pics.

[Punknoodle]

Hi dude, just had a read of your thread and I'm impressed by the car, looks like it goes well and is reliable which is brilliant.

Just a question, you mention when you put on the Gen 3 sump and pump that you had to drill and tap 2 new holes for the windage tray. I'm actually in the process of fitting the Gen 3 sump and pump on to my Gen 2 block and I see that there are actually 6 holes needed for the windage tray (2 already exist though) as well as new ones required around the outside of the block for the actual aluminium sump (most are the same but a couple are different, or bigger).

Did you drill and tap new holes in the rear main seal housing and also on the outside lip of the block in a couple of places for these different mounting points, or did you purely just use the original gen 2 mounting locations and trust the sealant? Did you drill 4 new holes for the windage tray?

I don't mind drilling and tapping more holes but the ones in the rear main are going to be a complete pain if not impossible with the engine in the car.

On a side note, I'm also running COP with a Haltech PS1000 ecu, using the factory triggers. Is that what you did? Or did you go with the Gen 4 pump and use a crank trigger?

Anyway, thanks for the read, keep enjoying the car!

[Punknoodle]

Sorry, one more thing, have you considering going with an electric water pump? I'm doing this now at the same time, mainly to be able the cool the car down nicely while in the pits by running the fan and pump with the engine off.