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It's not really that bad but replacing the oil pump may not be needed. Normally you'd buy the whole aluminium cover plate that has the pickup and everything else but seems excessive as the sump has to come off. I only replaced my shaft but due to the pump rotors being connected I had to do all 3 parts. If I hadn't come across the damaged shaft I would have had it all done in 2 days just taking my time. The alternator was just something that happened to stop at the same time.
In other news I've ordered new steering rack boots from Toyota as my right side has torn the end where you cable tie it to the rack end. They are dodgy universal aftermarket units and the other ones doesn't look very happy so I'm going to replace it too with genuine parts made for this car. They are different for each side. My WoF guys let me off twice with this defect because they know I look after my cars but with the house build any maintenance had taken a back seat hence the issues I've been having.
GDII wrote:By preventively replace you mean GEN4 swap right
Haha no. I am going to turbo the gen 2 3sge. So far I have sourced an HKS exhaust, a bunch of gaskets, walbro, manifold and other misc parts. I have chosen Borg warner EFR6758 turbo. Just waiting for black Friday sales in November to get the hybrid clutch kit from prime and a decent order from ATS. I will get a moroso pan for the better baffling and then I can replace the oil pump and won't have to weld a turbo drain bung on. At some point I will need to take a stock injector out to measure. Hopefully there is something higher flowing that will fit the rail.
GDII wrote:By preventively replace you mean GEN4 swap right
Haha no. I am going to turbo the gen 2 3sge. So far I have sourced an HKS exhaust, a bunch of gaskets, walbro, manifold and other misc parts. I have chosen Borg warner EFR6758 turbo. Just waiting for black Friday sales in November to get the hybrid clutch kit from prime and a decent order from ATS. I will get a moroso pan for the better baffling and then I can replace the oil pump and won't have to weld a turbo drain bung on. At some point I will need to take a stock injector out to measure. Hopefully there is something higher flowing that will fit the rail.
Interesting. You'll need to run low boost and high octane fuel as a 10:1 compression ratio is getting up there.
You mean some baffling vs no baffling. The stock injectors are pretty typical side feed. You can get some SARD 800cc or similar that should just plug in like the turbo stuff. What ECU will you use? Can't use a plugin as they never made one for the 3SGE.
Haha yes better baffling than none. They are top feed injectors right? Link plug in is listed for 3sge with a couple of wire re-pins but regardless I will probably go for the wire in link with knock control. Will see what the tuner recommends. On terms of cylinder pressures 10:1 is comparable with 9:1 + 3psi. So definitely no more than 1 bar of boost. I am very curious how the higher compression with the acoustic induction system goes. This is an area under the curve type build rather than all out power.
tw2 wrote:Haha yes better baffling than none. They are top feed injectors right? Link plug in is listed for 3sge with a couple of wire re-pins but regardless I will probably go for the wire in link with knock control. Will see what the tuner recommends. On terms of cylinder pressures 10:1 is comparable with 9:1 + 3psi. So definitely no more than 1 bar of boost. I am very curious how the higher compression with the acoustic induction system goes. This is an area under the curve type build rather than all out power.
Sorry they are top feed unlike the GEN2/3 3SGTE. I was thinking they were side feed for some reason even though I have a set sitting in my drawer.
Yeah you could repin it which could work but then the wiring harness is getting old and there are things you need to add in to make it work with the turbo and other sensors so a wire in with a new harness will be more reliable.
Yeah low boost with good response and torque down low. Good for street driving and making the car feel faster than all out top end power. Should be a fun car once done.
Yes, but it's approx $700-$900, even the rebuild kit is a couple hundred. Repco trade price is the best place to get a new replacement alternator if you don't want to rebuild or risk a second hand one
Ex-President & Wellington Area Coordinator & Lower North MR2 Leader
Current: 1992 Toyota MR2 G-Limited with Gen 4 3S-GTE + CT20B (APEXED), 2005 Toyota IST, 2008 Toyota Vanguard - 2GR!
Past: 1990 Toyota MR2 G-Limited, "Semi Parts Car" 1991 Toyota MR2 G-Limited, '91 G-Limited, '89 G-Limited, '91 NZ New MR2, '91 G-Limited, '91 GT (Parts Car), '99 Altezza 3SGE, '98 Altezza 1GFE, '88 Corolla, '96 Curren, '94 Ceres Corolla, '94 Levin, '90 Hiace Super Custom 4x4, '91 Mirage, '93 MX-6 J-Spec, '91 Familia, '91 Galant, '90 Navara, '96 Commodore, '94 Pajero, '89 Lancer, '93 Pajero, '92 Pajero, '89 Mirage, '92 Terrano, '87 Familia, '03 Colt, '91 Pajero, '91 Pajero, '97 Carib, '96 Carina, '02 Turbo Forester
GDII wrote:Maybe we need to do a full GEN4 swap with forged pistons and rods, a G25 turbo and a proper modern ECU to make it all work.
If only we had more spare money to do such a thing.
Literally the set up i have planned out in my head with a g25 550, all in good time. would be such a fun and responsive power plant
I will have to dig an injector out of the engine and measure it up. The 3sge top feed rail is excellent, much better than the gen 2 3sgte one.
Jabeo wrote:
Literally the set up i have planned out in my head with a g25 550, all in good time. would be such a fun and responsive power plant
I would suggest looking at the EFR turbos over the new Garrett. Garrett are still using the same antique design with some improved aerodynamics. The turbine is still heavy nickel based and their wastegate routing is very average. EFR has much lighter titanium alumide wheels which spin up way faster, better wastegate design and ceramic ball bearing. They are both T25 or v-band with billet compressor wheels.
ClanFever wrote:
Yes, but it's approx $700-$900, even the rebuild kit is a couple hundred. Repco trade price is the best place to get a new replacement alternator if you don't want to rebuild or risk a second hand one
Wow sounds like European car parts. Then again I guess they often last 20+ years.
Well that failed. It's either my battery hasn't got enough charge, as it didn't even click when I tried to start it or this replacement alternator is super stuffed. The tacho needle was flicking all over the place and the lights on the dash would barely show up. So I'll put my other one back in as it's far cleaner and apparently less worn. Time will tell. Spent the weekend painting doors so had to kick the MR2 out of the garage to do that work.
GDII wrote:Well that failed. It's either my battery hasn't got enough charge, as it didn't even click when I tried to start it or this replacement alternator is super stuffed. The tacho needle was flicking all over the place and the lights on the dash would barely show up. So I'll put my other one back in as it's far cleaner and apparently less worn. Time will tell. Spent the weekend painting doors so had to kick the MR2 out of the garage to do that work.
This looks a bit cleaner.
GEN2 3SGE Alternator small 1.JPG
GEN2 3SGE Alternator small 2.JPG
GEN2 3SGE Alternator small 3.JPG
GEN2 3SGE Alternator small 4.JPG
You need a multi meter phill then you can test them all without having to use the dash gauge
GDII wrote:Well that failed. It's either my battery hasn't got enough charge, as it didn't even click when I tried to start it or this replacement alternator is super stuffed. The tacho needle was flicking all over the place and the lights on the dash would barely show up. So I'll put my other one back in as it's far cleaner and apparently less worn. Time will tell. Spent the weekend painting doors so had to kick the MR2 out of the garage to do that work.
This looks a bit cleaner.
GEN2 3SGE Alternator small 1.JPG
GEN2 3SGE Alternator small 2.JPG
GEN2 3SGE Alternator small 3.JPG
GEN2 3SGE Alternator small 4.JPG
You need a multi meter phill then you can test them all without having to use the dash gauge
I had one, somehow I misplaced it while doing GEN4 wiring research. RAGE! It was working fine when I first started the car after initial install. This clean one will work again as it's the exact same failure as my track day from almost a year ago. Same fix made it last for over a year until it got gunked up.
Thursday night was nice enough to swap out the Celica alternator for the one that has been in the car for 10 years. After a decent clean up and no more leaks from the engine this one should last a good while longer.
The car was stuck outside due to no battery power and the alternator throwing the tacho needle every which way it wanted. Swapped it out then started it up with help from the Demio and jumper leads. Voltmeter went straight to the correct position so a win right there!
I have been doing a few things to the car lately but been far too busy to do write ups like I used to.
Things I have done lately are:
Put the Advan Racing wheels back on for the nationals.
Install the 3SGTE TRD muffler.
Swap in GEN2-5 front arms.
New steering rack boots as they were stuffed and non OEM. Must have my OEM parts.
I have also developed a dead battery although it is 10 years old now so had a really good run. Not using it every day and having some alternator issues must have pushed it over the edge.
I also took this short video of the muffler from a cold start. I might try get one in car and a drive by to see what it's really like.
Let me know what you think. Driving makes it sound..... questionable. I'm sure some heard it at nationals too.
Looks really good Phil, hope all the alternator/charging issues are over for at least another 10years
Take care, stay safe and have a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
2017 Toyota Aqua G's
Daily Drive: 2005 Honda CR-V Sport (Auto) - SOLD
When the Wife Allows: 2020 TRD RAV4 Limited Hybrid
If the Weather is Nice: 2000 GDBSTiV7 Subaru
Looking Forward To: Supercharged MR2
lasersooby wrote:Looks really good Phil, hope all the alternator/charging issues are over for at least another 10years
Take care, stay safe and have a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Thanks Mo. I do hope so too because it's a little slow trying to start the car now. Not that it drives/rolls any further than a few meters at the moment.
Merry Christmas to you and all within the the club. Here's to another good year of MR2s!
