GDII's 1990 G-Limited

[GDII]

Cam belt idler tensioner bearing. Part number 13505-88560. This one tightens the belt with the hydraulic tensioner once everything is set. Its a floating type tensioner unlike my GEN2 3SGE where a spring pulls it tight and then you do up the bolt in the centre to lock the tension in place.

The bearing is an NSK Japan part number 35BD219DWA18. This part number appears to be specific to this assembly with the bracket and pivot bolt.

[GDII]

The hydraulic tensioner for the cambelt. Part number 13540-88480. This pushes against previously posted bearing assembly. It has a pin in it affectionately called the grenade pin. Once you pull this pin the tensioner is released and there is no going back. Well, not really, you can reset it with a vice or strong clamp of you need to but be very careful and do it slowly.

[GDII]

Bringing it out for it's first wash in over a year!! Get the little dude to help out. Thanks buddy!

[GDII]

Wow I really need to start using the real camera. Terrible quality....

[lasersooby]

Yummy yummy, you are teasing me big time mate

Where's the image of the child labour's that you engaged to clean the wheels up whilst you sat back and enjoyed his work?

All jokes aside, looking good

[GDII]

Yummy yummy, you are teasing me big time mate

Where's the image of the child labour's that you engaged to clean the wheels up whilst you sat back and enjoyed his work?

All jokes aside, looking good

Yes I am teasing you!! Although, I could sell you these wheels? No, these stay with me forever.

He cleaned one spoke and decided splashing in the warm water in the bucket was a better idea. I'm teaching, no child labour here!!

[GDII]

New OEM clutch disc from Mark and Richard at Manawatu Toyota.
Part number 31250-17054 to fit an E153 gearbox. Built by AISIN for Toyota.
Semi metallic friction material. I'm not going for an uprated unit as I'm not chasing big power and want it to be as easy to drive as it can.

It's interesting to see the oval shape in the friction material. Keeps the wear on the flywheel and pressure plate even.

It seems I didn't get a photo of the other side. I'll have to update when I do.

[GDII]

A new pressure or cover plate. Part number 31210-20351. OEM AISIN unit just like the friction disc.

[GDII]

Clutch throw out bearing. Part number 31230-20191. NSK 60TKB3502. As the Caldina motor was an automatic transmission all these bits a re required to convert it to manual.

Something to note. Always buy an OEM throw out bearing for any clutch that is compatible with one. They are built far better than what you get supplied with even the big name brands. Sure a higher rating aftermarket clutch has more load and will wear the bearing out faster, it won't explode like the smaller thinner plastic ones you get. I'd rather not have to ever replace this bearing before I do anything else to the drive train. I expect another 200k + for this bearing, not 20k.

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[GDII]

These pins are for locating the E153 gearbox right side axle carrier bearing. Part number 90250-06003 and you need 2 of them.
As the Caldina GTT uses an AWD system it doesn't use the carrier bearing as the front differential takes up this job. So when swapping the engine into an MR2 using the E153 gearbox you should get these. They are 6mm in diameter and 14mm long as per the parts catalogue.

They go into the small holes shown here. The larger ones are for the bolts to hold the carrier bearing to the block, along with a whole range of other brackets!

Thanks to Thomas/GlanzaAtHeart for supplying these.

[GDII]

Silicone joiners for the intercooler pipes. I was after something different, unbranded and cheaper so I hit up AliExpress. These are red in the middle and black on the outside, sure you don't see most of the red when they are installed but I know it's there and the little flash of colour on the ends of the joiners.

Sizes and shapes are:
Filter pipe to turbo. 45° reducer 76-7pmm
Turbo to hot pipe. 0° reducer 57-63mm
Hot pipe to intercooler. Straight 63mm
Intercooler to cold pipe. 45° 63mm
Cold pipe to throttle body. 0° reducer 63-70mm

The intercooler has 59mm OD connections but a 57mm won't fit so a 63mm was used. Not ideal. Either the intercooler pipes are too big or the castings on the intercooler are just not designed for the 63mm pipes. Being a generic intercooler copied from the Greddy unit it's everywhere to buy although it seems most are bar and plate vs tube and fin for my one.

[lasersooby]

Looking good mate. The inside will match the outside of your car. Looking forward to the whole assembly stuff mate

[GDII]

Hose clamps. These ones are a little different. They might look like Turbosmart products but they are actually Murray Corp Constant Tension Turbo Seal clamps repackaged.

Different sizes listed in the images to complete the package. 1x81, 1x75 and 3x62.

Why these over the typical t bolt style clamp? I've always liked the Subaru WRC cars and these are used on the engines. Those engines run 60psi so if they are good enough for that much pressure then they are good enough for 12-16psi on this 3SGTE. They look good, work well and are small in size.

They have a spring like outer tension clamp so as the temperature changes they retain the same clamping force as when you did them up. Traditional non spring types require you to wind them down very tight and potentially damage the hose to keep them clamped properly. These do not need that. The inner clamping ring also has an O ring effect due to the dual bead design keeping the hose in place and not popping off.

https://www.murraycorp.com/clamp/consta ... lamps-tss/

[Benckj]

Interesting, never seen these before. Quite like the concept but should be a little wider IMO. I've seen the normal hose clamps cut into the rubber causing issues which is why a wider clamp spreading load is better.

[GDII]

Interesting, never seen these before. Quite like the concept but should be a little wider IMO. I've seen the normal hose clamps cut into the rubber causing issues which is why a wider clamp spreading load is better.

If you see the shape of the inner band the outside edges are bent up to not cut into the joiners. No chance of them cutting it this way.

If you can win a WRC world championship and 10 times in a row Rally America championship with these clamps I don't think there is an issue with them.