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This section of the forum is a great resource if you're looking for ideas, and it's a cool way of obtaining technical information that may otherwise not have been posted. (Members can use the Search functionality at top right of the forum to speed up finding things) Please respect others' contributions and don't diss anyone - keep comments helpful, factual, positive and polite. One thread per vehicle or owner please - don't start lots of threads about just one car. And if you need assistance with your car and want to host a spanner day, please use the appropriate section of the forum: http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=35 Thank you.
To get studs out using the double nut method works well most of the time.
Place the spanner over the stud, wind on one nut, then the other nut. Hold the first nut in place with the spanner and tighten the second nut onto it with a socket. Then using the spanner you can turn the stud out.
Some of the threads had a tiny bit of aluminium come out at the top of the thread so may not be an issue. I'm going to look at getting inserts put in to prevent the threads stripping when I go to torque up the nuts to the factory specs. These heads have a tendency to strip some, especially around cylinder 1 and 2.
I also removed the 3x intake manifold studs. Turns out these are held in with a red locktite type substance and the centre one actually goes into the oil drain so needs to have it's thread sealed. Very interesting.
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CP 0.5mm oversized forged pistons for the 3SGTE. 9.0:1 compression ratio just like the stock pistons. SC7450. These have a slight weight advantage over the stock GEN4 pistons. Definitely a decent quality part.
Top/1st ring (red)
Bottom/2nd ring (blue)
Oil control rings (yellow)
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New rear tyres. First set lasted, not super long. I bought these in preparation for the MR2 Nationals but... that got canned.
Take old ones off.
Inspect damage for the original installation. Bunch of noobs! The guy at a different shop used a plastic clamp to hold the tyre down as it was installed. No damage here!!
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New clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit for the E153.
Part number 04313-17020.
It comes with a preassembled piston with seals, new external boot, bleed nipple cap and a spring.
I know others are using the single feed Camry slave but my clutch is stock so it should be fine. I might have to rebuild or get a new master. I know these clutches are very hard to bleed and I have not done mine in the 14 years I have owned it because of this....
Some new cap screws to replace the damaged ones in the sump when I took it apart. Part number is 90901-10004. There are more in the sump but I only damaged 2.
This vacuum hose goes from the turbo turbine housing to the wastegate diaphragm. Part number 17294-28010.
Mine was rather stiff and brittle so a new one is excellent to have.
In addtion to this are some Daihatsu clamps for the Wastegate to turbine housing hose. Part number 96132-41100. Daihatsu adds -000 to the end of the part number.
So the combination of a the Toyota hose, the Daihatsu hose clamps and a Mamba wastegate should see me with no leaks.
O rings for the drain and bleed valves for the radiator. Toyota part number is 96711-19007. These are the same part but the Daihatsu version was cheaper.
It's always a good idea to replace these if you are doing any coolant work on the MR2 as there is nothing worse than having the system all bled and having these leak.
These bolts are used as drain plugs for the main radiator pipes that run under the car from engine to radiator. Part number 90105-08088. Don't forget the new washers!
2x washers for the drain bolts. Part number 90430-08008.
New vacuum hoses for the BOV. Part number 90445-10057. Yamaha parts were cheaper for the same thing. Yes these are just normal vacuum hoses but are a specific length and I love OEM parts!
Toyota engine, Yamaha vacuum hoses to a GFB BOV!
New hose clamps for the Yamaha vacuum hoses.
Part number 96132-51000. I'll still be using the stock metal bracket with hoses hence the 4 clamps for 2 hoses vs 2 clamps for 1 hose.
