GDII's 1990 G-Limited

[GDII]

Time to remove the piston and rod assembly from the crankshaft. You need a 12 point 14mm socket for these which is probably more common than a 6 point socket in your toolbox.

[GDII]

Big end journals look good on all 4 positions. No scratching which is a bonus!

[GDII]

The bearing shells were all happy. A little bit of plating had come off this one but not an issue.

IMG_20220603_145818.jpg (121.96 KiB) Viewed 201 times

[GDII]

One piston and conrod out. Nice and golden!

[GDII]

Below the piston of the GEN4 3SGTE. You can see the darker lines from where the oil comes in from the oil scraper ring holes.

[GDII]

All my crank to block journals are the same spec which is excellent. New bearings will be going in of course.

[GDII]

The crank journals are 2 different specs but I'll check everything before it goes back together.

IMG_20220603_152725.jpg (121.43 KiB) Viewed 180 times

[GDII]

Caps off! These caps are tightly fitted into the block so need a bit of force to remove them.

[GDII]

Main cap bearings are good. One thing that I found was one bolt was quite clean but the other was rather sludgy. This was the case for all of them.

[GDII]

Next we took off the oil cooler. The O ring had gone super hard and cracked leaving some on the block and some on the cooler itself. Need to get that off somehow. I'm getting it cleaned in an ultrasonic bath.

This cooler actually helps warm the oil first as coolant gets hot faster. The GEN1-4 3SGTE uses some form of cooler but the GEN5 does not. Just a blanking plate. To return oil from the feed back to the block.

[GDII]

Cranky!! This crank decided that it wanted to stay in the block. Had to lift it at both ends and then hit it with a block of wood to release the oil seal from the bearings.

When you lift something like this and it's this heavy and then you think that at redline of 7200rpm it is spinning round 120 times per second it really hits you how strong they have to be. Not only to just take that load let alone taking the pressure from the rods and pistons and massive fuel burning events from the turbo forcing in air and the spark plug setting fire to it.

[GDII]

Time to strip down the head. This valve collet removal and installation tool is excellent! And the valve seal removal pliers.

Image 2 shows the end that you use to remove the collets. You push down on the spring retainer and the valve stays in place while the magnet in the tool extracts the collets as shown in image 4.

Image 3 shows the installation side. You place the collets in the spring retainer and push the tool down to compress the spring. The ball in the middle is spring loaded so it doesn't push the valve down but it allows the collets to be seated.

Image 5 shows the parts. A valve, a spring, a retainer and the 2 collets.

[GDII]

Spring out ready for the valve to be dropped.

[GDII]

Out come the intake valves. Not terribly dirty but definitely not clean. The exhaust valves are going to need a lot of work to make them clean again. All crusty on the face.

[GDII]

The intake ports are clean due to the fuel being sprayed in them. The exhaust ports are a bit black and called with carbon so they need cleaned out.