The MR2 Owner's Club of New Zealand

So after having the 36T30/22V calipers for over a year I have finally collected all the components I need to install them.

This is how I got them from this post back in April 2015....
http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php? ... 40#p116210


It would be safe to say these were spray painted while still on the car. Not good enough for me so out came the paint stripper and a wire brush.


No more red paint or dirt.


I little bit of rust starting to show up.

Next was to completely rebuild and refurbish them back to looking good again.

New seal kits here.
http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php? ... 40#p116455

Now to coat the calipers in paint. Not sure how well this will last as it's extremely hard paint and any minor knocks chip it. It was cheap so might not have been the best way to go.


Before and after


Finished. Painted the handbrake cable bracket black


3-4 coats brushed on. Calipers and brackets got fully coated.


Except for the pad clip and shim surfaces.




New pad clips for the front as the calipers didn't come with any.




Slide them into place trying no to damage the fragile paint


You can see the new seals in place here. Unfortunately I didn't get any photos of the install process of the piston seals as it's a bit of a messy job with all the grease that goes into doing it correctly.


Polished stainless steel shims. Should look good.

The rear calipers and brackets use the same clips and shims so I will be reusing them from the 16V calipers. The pads are identical for all 89-99 JDM SW20s.


Final product of the calipers.

Next parts to complete the setup are:

Znoelli DDS slotted and dimpled rotors. I have had these on the front for 8 years and 70,000km. These were the smaller 36T25/16V brakes though.
Znoelli SP500 pads front and rear.
HEL Performance braided hoses with transparent red PVC coating over the stainless steel braid. Can you tell I like red?
TRD brake fluid. This is just Motul RBF600 fluid renamed. It's classed as DOT4 but has a dry boiling point of 600F so is far better than a normal DOT4 fluid.
Flare nut wrenches so I reduce the chance of ruining the nuts when I go to remove everything.
Not shown in the photos are the new larger master cylinder and the 94 turbo proportioning valve.

DDS rotors with information stamped into them. Carrying all 4 rotors is very heavy. Calipers are at least 5kg each.
The 89-91 JDM cars NA and Turbo have 258x25mm rotors front and 263x16mm rear. Both are vented. Larger diameter rear rotors.
The 92-99 JDM cars have 275x30mm rotors front and 281x22mm rear. Again both are vented and the rear is a larger diameter.
Another thing to note, the calipers code is 36T25 for the front hence the 25mm wide rotor. The 36 stands for the piston diameter. Rears are 16V hence the 16mm wide rotor. So naturally the 36T30 caliper takes the 30mm rotor and the 22V takes the 22mm rotor.

To clear up information about the 93+ Turbo brakes this is from the USDM cars.
The SW20 MR2 NA got 16v rear calipers from 91-95 and 51-25 single pot calipers for the front.
The SW20 MR2 Turbo from 91-92 got 16v rear calipers and 36T25 front calipers.
The SW20 MR2 Turbo from 93-95 is 93+ Turbo got 22v rear calipers and 36T30 front calipers.
So you don't need 93+ Turbo calipers to upgrade. You need 92+ JDM G/G-Limited or GT/GT-S brakes.



Rear rotor. Seams odd that these have 10 holes for a 5 stud car but it makes sense when you see the stock wheels have a pin on them. This is to prevent you from fitting the rear 7" wheel to the front instead of the 6".


Nothing special about the fins inside, just straight from inside to out.


Front rotor.




Information stamped onto the rotor. Brand, Model, Part Number, minimum thickness and side to mount it on. A nice touch to a quality rotor.



Znoelli SP500 pads



Again, Brand, Model and Part Number stamped onto them.


Fronts


Rears

The rears have the wear indicator riveted on but the fronts are just slip on as seen in the photo just sitting next to them.


The little knob is to locate into the rear caliper piston to prevent it spinning. As the piston also activates the hand brake using a lever it auto adjusts. When you go to push the piston back in you need to rotate it will the special tool, or some pliers.


As the rear new rotors are larger diameter but the hat has stayed the same size the pad gets moved out making the contact patch move out. This leaves a large area in the middle of the rotor face untouched by the pad. Remember I mentioned the rear pads are the same for 89-99 cars.


TRD brake fluid by Motul. 4 bottles as I am replacing all the fluid in the brake system and the clutch.


New HEL Performance brake hoses plus some wrenches to help with the install. I have also purchased a matching clutch hose to replace that at the same time.




New banjo bolts and copper washers


The majority of the brake parts laid out.


Soooooon. ELMO is waiting patently for his new brakes.

Awesome write up. Everything looks super pretty.

Are you planning on changing the bias valve to suit the setup? I believe the brake booster may be different too?

What brakes do you have on your car at the moment? I remember seeing znoelli rotors at the Christmas run?

Would definitely be interesting to see how the brakes behave in comparison

Gleshlich wrote:Awesome write up. Everything looks super pretty.

Are you planning on changing the bias valve to suit the setup? I believe the brake booster may be different too?

What brakes do you have on your car at the moment? I remember seeing znoelli rotors at the Christmas run?

Would definitely be interesting to see how the brakes behave in comparison

Yeah. I called it the proportioning valve. Last line of the list of parts in the last post. There doesn't seem to be any set info on the differences of each part number but if Toyota changed it then there must be a reason for it.
The boosters are different for the larger brakes but I haven't got one of these and don't really intend of changing it. Unless I can get one really cheap in the next few weeks.

The current brakes are Znoelli DDS rotors on the front with the stock 89-91 calipers. Front pads are Ferodo Excel. Rears are stock Toyota? rotors with unknown pads. Were on the car when I bought it in 2008.
If you go right to the front page of this thread in the first post you'll see when I did that.

I hope these end up being better for response. I'm not sure if the current calipers have ever been rebuilt or not but last time I bled them the pistons were a bit sticky. Sliders were fine though.
The reasons I wanted to change them is the early brakes can get fade on the track. They stop well but not after a few hard stops. Plus I needed bigger rotors to fill out the bigger wheels.

All about the aesthetics.

It doesn't matter how your brakes stop you, as long as they fill the wheels

Alsw20 wrote:All about the aesthetics.

It doesn't matter how your brakes stop you, as long as they fill the wheels

Exactly. DDS rotors are for the bling. Everyone knows this car doesn't see the track. Yet.
The new rotors are only 17/18mm in diameter larger than the old ones so not much to gain. But it's enough to help.

Great write-up and photos as usual

Exciting stuff! Good write up, and I managed to learn some stuff like usual

4CylinderSpecial wrote:Exciting stuff! Good write up, and I managed to learn some stuff like usual

Spykerwolf wrote:Great write-up and photos as usual

That's what it's all about. Sharing the knowledge. Unfortunately I didn't get to do a write up on rebuilding the calipers but CJ has a great write up on that one that should be sticky'd.

4CylinderSpecial bought his 1990 G-Limited and the car happened to have a tray in the frunk that fits in the gap above the spare wheel and it has an MR2 badge on it. When he sold the 1990 for the 1996 GT-S he offered the tray to me as it doesn't fit in the newer cars as the front cover is different. I very much appreciate it Levi.

There is no information available on the internet about this tray. It fits in the gap and locks in place, has a very well made MR2 badge and the construction of the try is a of a very high standard it must be a Toyota option. If anyone can find any info on this it would be great. I've spent many hours looking already.

It can be unclipped and flat packed away if needed. It is made from a velour covered vinyl over hardwood construction with a plastic bracket to lock it on place in the main plastic cover. It holds dust and dirt very easily so excuse the mess. Levi gave it a good clean before he sold it to me but it's picked up more dust again since.


I now store my tool kit in it instead of on the spare wheel leaning against the front fire wall behind the radiator.








You can see the 2 large screws on the left, this holds the plastic bracket underneath it to hold it in place.


The base is just vinyl where as the rest is velour.


Bracket and the nuts that hold it on.


Unclipped and laid out flat.



Unfortunately it's not in the best condition with a few tares in the joins but hey, it's cool to own a piece of 90s MR2 history. That's if it's actually something Toyota made for the car and not a custom item made by someone else. Either way it's still very unique.

And while I'm on the topic of the Frunk and storage for tool kits. Here's my factory tool kit 88.888% complete.


These are the factory kit parts. As mine is a 1990 the car didn't have the parts noted as *2. All I am missing is the pair of pliers. I have 8 out of 9 pieces, that's why I have 88.888% of the kit.


Tool bag




The jack, jack handle sub assembly, wrench for removing the factory centre caps, and jack handle in combination with the lug nut wrench.


Interchangeable flat head or phillips head screw driver, 8-10mm and 12-14mm spanners.


Wheel chock or stopper as per the part description.

The weather has been very erratic here over summer so why not take the chance of the good weather to get more photos?
As you go through the set it gets darker and darker.


















Toy car. Sort of. Using the miniature filter on the camera but it's too dark to see the affect working and I'm too close to the car.

Very nice, especially the last shot!

First time I've seen that frunk tray. I suspect it was custom made at first but it does looks like an OEM product.

Surprised you don't have the complete tool kit. I'll look around to see if I have a spare set of Toyota pliers as I know you like to keep things original. Didn't the older SW models come with a black bag or was that just turbo's?

Benckj wrote:First time I've seen that frunk tray. I suspect it was custom made at first but it looks like an OEM product.

Surprised you don't have the complete tool kit. I'll look around to see if I have a spare set of Toyota pliers as I know you like to keep things complete.

Yeah same here, first time I've seen one too so I jumped at the chance to get it.

Well I only had the jack tools and the centre cap wrench when I got the car. It only in trhe last few months that I have manged to get the other bits.
That would be great if you can find a pair of pliers. If you can I most likely have a way to get it up here with family traveling if it's by the end of the month.