The MR2 Owner's Club of New Zealand

Grrrrrrr! wrote:Its up to the owner to ensure that the car is up to spec, at all times. they should abolish WOFs and do random roadside inspections like in Oz. To many people think haveing a current WOF means your car is okay, even if the wof was done 9 months and 30,000kms ago.

So completely true, the amount of dodgy crap driving our streets would be halved in less than a year if they implemented it just like in OZ. Too many young guys & idiots tidy the car up to get a wof & then smack all the "illegal" parts etc back on & rip round our roads recklessly


Have you drained the radiator at any stage Warlock? Any signs of coolant used & hows the oil smelling?

There is no way that a car with loose engine mounts would ever get a legitimate WoF. So its either had a dodgy WoF or the engine has been out and in since and not reinstalled properly.

Where I come from the only time you had to do any sort of warrant was when you bought a car. It was up to you to ensure that the car was roadworthy and in good condition. There was no regulatory body enforcing this at all. This is why some people used vice grips as steering wheels etc. This is also one of the main reasons that there is such a high death toll on the road in South Africa.

Have you drained the radiator at any stage Warlock? Any signs of coolant used & hows the oil smelling?

@born disturbed
On multiple occasions have I drained the water, flushed and filled with TechAloy 100. I spent the better part of two weeks bleeding the car. One trip to Silverdale to test the car to see if the issue was resolved landed me getting the car towed back home and radiator and engine completely empty.

I have done compression tests and there is nothing wrong there, however the TK test showed CO2 in the cooling system meaning that there was water getting in the cylinders and pressure build up taking place in the water. This would push all the water out.

There was no sign of water in the oil or oil in the water so at this point I am going to do a complete rebuild of the engine. Of which I have just started the process.

Have started stripping the engine down now and so far this is what I have found:

Additional items that need to be replaced
Accelerator cable - Frayed (will need replacing)
Crank shaft pulley bolt - Had to cut the exiting off with a grinder.

Interesting items
Exhaust manifold had on the left bank (before the centre studs) 2 gaskets on the right 5 (note all broken)
Three studs were broken and have been so for a very long time. Exhaust gases have been leaking out the manifold from cylinder 4 directly onto the water pipes
These look as if they may need replacing to.
Oil return pipe from the turbo has a rubber pipe on it (disintegrated)
Sensor below the cat completely disintegrated (wonder how it ever worked )

I will start uploading photo's soon

Ugh, sounds ugly. If it starts looking like a real dog of an engine consider binning it altogether. Make sure before you do any work on the head you get it hardness tested and crack tested, it sounds like it has overheated several times and could be soft, so no point in wasting money getting any work done on it. And if its been over heated and soem monkey has added cold water then turned the key the head could have cracked.

If you decide to bin the engine I have one i'm trying to get rid of, was a running engine but needs belts and seals replaced before going back in.

All stripped down now, have around 8 boxes of parts now.

Block and head have been sent to engine specialists ltd. Head is fine and not soft. Block is being honed and polished so is the head, this will take care of the new MLS gasket. A new set of rings are on the cards as well.

Then I will be almost ready to start the entire rebuild process.
Am going to need another couple of parts like
1)arp bolts exhaust and head
2)new clutch (any suggestions?) future proofing might be a good thing.
3)rings
4)big ends and mains will need to be replaced if need be (guidance here would be good).
5)ct26 rebuild on the cards (anyone know where I can get a rebuild kit?)

once engine is complete I want to start the body work and get that sorted.

I really need some help as I have very little funds and have to do all the work myself.

Where wod be the best place to put the full rebuild document?

I can help out with parts, timing gear, service parts & Exedy clutches are my thing & my prices have always been sweet.

Give Chris (Photog) a PM or call him at work (Alltech Diesel & Turbo 443 6511 ext 1) in regards to the CT26, or hunt out a CT20b if a good one pops up for the right $$ it may be a blessing.


Cheers
J

born disturbed wrote:I can help out with parts, timing gear, service parts & Exedy clutches are my thing & my prices have always been sweet.

Cheers Mate will do just that,

Just got the engineering prices.

$750 for:
1 complete re bore to 5 thou oversize (Cylinders to oval) shown after attempt to hone the sleves.
4x New pistons and rings
1x head has been hot tanked and cleaned.
All broken bolts taken out.

Still to be done,
The exhaust manifold now needs to be machined as it is bent completely out of shape. There is a 2 to 3 mm gap on the manifolds face. I understand that this is a common problem.

New exhaust studs will be needed now.

Will update when I have more of a chance. busy making some comfort food as this will be the last time I can make my killer Macaroni and cheese

what sort of pistons? TGP or ?

Engineering company is providing the parts.

Grrrrrrr! wrote:what sort of pistons? TGP or ?

I am of the understanding that TGP's are being used. I cannot afford $900+ for forged

Just so long as they aren't using white box specials out of china!

Grrrrrrr! wrote:Just so long as they aren't using white box specials out of china!

Haa Haa, no do not think this company would even remotely recommend that as they have a hell of a reputation to up hold. I believe that they get all the work from North Shore toyota and other companies.

TGP pistons have arrived, Rings, crank, bearings, conrods are getting fitted over the next day or so then we can start the rebuild process.

Has anyone got an idea as to how much a new oil pump costs?

With club discount last price I got quoted was $210, but that was over a year ago. I'd expect $250-350 retail.