Progress Log- Santas List

[JasonFriday13]

Million dollar answer: not long enough . I was told to turn the engine off as soon as you hear noises to prevent more damage, so as long as you didn't hear any screeching or blown big-end noises, then I would say it's fine.

[Benckj]

No odd noise so hopefully dodged a bullet. Running full synthetic so maybe it helped keep some lubrication on vital parts. Oil slick its laying all over road leading to and from my house.

Not a very nice feeling though to see clouds of smoke and then oil level light coming on. Initially thought the smoke was from the recently painted exhaust and de-greaser burning off engine.

[Benckj]

Took some time to organise a new turbo line, gasket for V band on DP and longer silicone joiner for IC intake. Spoke with my local Tuner and he suggested I drill out the oil restrictor fitting as it may have led to over pressure on inlet line. For running journal bearing need to have a large flow to help lubrication and cooling. Also need to look into why the actuator is not fully opening when I tested with 20psi compressed air. Only moves approx 10mm which it should be more like 35mm . Going to install all parts on weekend and give back side of engine a wash down to get rid of the oil pools.

[Benckj]

Following a few minor set-backs I installed the new oil feed line, modified the internal wastegate gasket, installed A2W IC with new 45deg joiner, changed oil and connected exhaust bypass wiring.

Took for the maiden journey to test upgrade work and burn off all the oil/degreaser/paint applied during work. All went well although I drove with bypass closed and kept away from boost. Next drives will be more aggressive.

Few more jobs ahead before race days including re-torquing some bolts and getting a WOF. Will also install my tyre pressure monitor so I can keep tabs on my rubber during track days.

[Benckj]

Really need to get a wiggle on to complete this project where I'm happy with upgrades and performance. Have 2 track days (Highlands & Levels) and a drag race event in the upcoming weeks. I drive to and from each event so relability is a must. If I intended to trailer then it would be a whole different car with cage & stripped interior.

Gathered some parts but the list of 'little jobs' continues to grow;

> re-torque bolts
> check drive belts
> check for fluid leaks (ie coolant, oil seals, trans, clutc)
> check and top up all fluids
> Shorten intake joiner so IC sits flat
> install new WG actuator (tested at 10psi)
> re-tap missing turbo flange bolt
> adjust EBC program- road & race modes
> secure underbelly plastics
> install & test TPMS
> adjust and test WI set point (11psi squirt)
> get WOF
> dyno run to check AFR's, turbo and WI under load

Good thing this next weekend is a holiday for Otago anniversary so I have Monday to button a few things up.

[Benckj]

All minor jobs completed and road tested. Adjusted EBC for lower boost and increased response curve. Turbo is rather sluggish until I hit 3500 and then it spools to redline (13psi).Was hoping for a bit more actually. Not sure if retarding exhaust or single port entry has much to do with slow response.

WOF scheduled for tomorrow and Dyno on Friday. That gives me the weekend to sort out any issues.

[JasonFriday13]

One way to help spool the turbo up quicker is to increase the cam overlap so that more of the building air pressure is thrown down the exhaust. Retarding the exhaust cam is one way of doing it. Advancing the intake cam does it too.

I will be setting up my cams with the same centerlines as the gen 3 cams (LSA of 112.5 degrees iirc). I've done the math with my bigger cams and I'm getting 23 degrees overlap (intake 5 deg advance, exhaust 4 deg retard). One rule of thumb that I learned is that cam timing is limited to about 4 degrees from stock in either direction, any more and it doesn't make as much of a difference.

This is the website I used to do the math: http://www.wallaceracing.com/camcalc.php.

Gen 3 turbo cams (LSA 112.5 degrees):

Your cam has an Overlap of 13.00 degrees
Intake Duration of 240.00 degrees.
The Exhaust Duration is 236.00 degrees.
The Inlet Cam has an Installed Centerline of 113.00 degrees ATDC.
The exhaust cam has an Installed Centerline of 112.00 degrees BTDC.

My planned cam setup (LSA 112.5 degrees):

Your cam has an Overlap of 23.00 degrees
Intake Duration of 252.00 degrees.
The Exhaust Duration is 244.00 degrees.
The Inlet Cam has an Installed Centerline of 114.00 degrees ATDC.
The exhaust cam has an Installed Centerline of 111.00 degrees BTDC.

For comparison, Gen 2 turbo cams (LSA 114 degrees):

Your cam has an Overlap of 8.00 degrees
Intake Duration of 236.00 degrees.
The Exhaust Duration is 236.00 degrees.
The Inlet Cam has an Installed Centerline of 110.00 degrees ATDC.
The exhaust cam has an Installed Centerline of 118.00 degrees BTDC.

The exhaust cam is advanced quite a bit, which is why retarding it 6 degrees helps out so much (makes it the same as a gen 3 turbo exhaust cam). LSA drops from 114 to 111 degrees which makes it slightly more aggressive.

[Benckj]

Great info, thanks for that. I need study the figures and get my head around it. With retarding exhaust 4 deg was hoping for more power at top end as this is where I lost it from over fueling. Not sure if I accomplished this but certainly killed the lower rev range.

[JasonFriday13]

Yeah, advancing the intake cam up helps low end torque (which is what I am currently missing with my intake cam being so retarded at the moment).

[Benckj]

Well after a very dissapointing dyno run on Friday I'm back to the drawing board. Seems the t3/4 turbo I bought off a valued club member is much too large for my set-up. Being a 0.6A/R compressor and 0.63A/R turbine it produces almost no power low down and then around 4000RPM it pulls like a freight train way past redline. The result was not ideal and max power achieved was only 212whp. I actually lost over 50hp from the ct20b and am probably 100hp down from my intended level.

Spent a couple hours at a friends house on the weekend learning turbo design basics. We plotted up my engine parameters, projected power and boost levels and overlayed onto various manufactured turbine plots. Now I understand why this didn't work and what I need to more forward. Didn't really want to be in this position just now with 2 track days staring me in the face. So the search for hurt begins with finding the right combo and fitting into the plumbing work already installed (t3 inlet and Vband DP). Need something along the lines of a 0.55A/R turbine value to get the my spool matching RPM. For reference the CT20b is rated at 0.36 intake and 0.35 turbine although these figures are hard to confirm.

[EssDub]

Slapping big-ass churbrochurger on a stock motor = You're gonna have a bad time

[Benckj]

Don't I know it! Didn't realise the turbo size until I started doing my homework. That's what happens when you trust someones advice rather than doing your own work. Just happy engine didn't go bang.

[Wayne]

sorry benckj but lets be clear here . the turbo made 14 psi and 250 kw on another 2 liter engine . and yes full boost was 3700 but thats not that bad really .
i would take another look at your setup because your results contradict each other .
apparently your making 50kw less that a ct20 b .. so that would say your making 130 rwkw.
something isnt quite lining up but then your running 10 psi ?

[Wayne]

actually just reading that you have been following fridays cam advice its not had to see whats gone wrong here .
Have you actually timed up the cams properly ? i.e with a degree wheel and a dti or are you taking pot luck ?
the reason i make comment of Fridays setup is he makes 150kw on a ct20b where others at the same boost level are making near on 200 kw

[Wayne]

Why am i annoyed .. well i actually just put a even larger than this turbo on a gt4 in the last 2 weeks ... .86 rear housing 500hp compressor ... and he gets 14 psi before 4000 rpm and it goes like stink .
and that is a dead stock motor ... no cam wheels no nothing .
so whats stupid is .. this turbo isnt even large !!!!
jim if you need help with what you doing ask , there is a issue here and its not the turbo ..... if you want some back up on that ... give steve murch a ring 09 810 7009 tell him wayne told you to ring him , then listen to what he actually has to say and fix your issue