Progress Log- Santas List

[Benckj]

Heading into the dyno shop today to see if my Engineer/Tuner can make up the turbo adapter manifold for me. Everything is coming aprt or together without any unexpected problems. With any luck I may have the basics completed by this weekend and engine going back into car. Still going to be off the road for a few more weeks until I get the DP sorted and axles re-built. Not sure about re-paint just yet.

Removing DP with v-band clamp will be much easier than previous flange work. Actually I'm finding the whole turbo replacement easier to work on than stock set-up. If I need to pull for what ever reason later on it would only take an hour to break free and have on the bench. Hard to belive this turbo makes more hp than the ct20b as its physically smaller in size but is rated for 300-400hp.

Going to clean up flywheel and decided if I'll get turned up this week. Its flat with no groves but some marks which may be due to chatter. Ideas?

[Benckj]

Slow progress as I expected now that I'm back at work. Chasing some parts including an adapter manifold from ct20b to t3 turbo. Would like this to help solve the problem of some minor warpage I've had on the stock exhaust manifold. Planning on pulling it this weekend to check on mill.

Waiting on a full gen 3 OEM gasket kit from japan which will be around 2 weeks away. Hadn't planned on this but after pricing a few individual gaskets it was better to get full kit and have extras on hand in case I find other problems. Priced up injector seals last year and they were almost $100 alone! I will edit my first post on prices to keep tally of the work + expense.

[Benckj]

Bit of progress over weekend. Sized up new t3 turbo and how to mount. Have an adaptor manifold arriving next week which should work as long as I can relocate actuator. Will also need to build a support bracket as I don't like hanging all the weight off the exhaust manifold. Found 3/4 studs off manifold finger tight so Id say that was my warped gasket issue. Face seems flat using the Ol straight edge and torch trick so Ill leave alone.

Turned focus to trans today. Used a fine sharpening stone to polish the flywheel and assess scuff marks. Reasonably happy with the condition but if I was a perfectionlist I'd get it turned up. New pressure plate has been stored in a box outside for 2 years and managed to accumulate some corrosion. Took the stone to that at well but is far from perfect. Bolted it all together , install new axle seals and joined onto engine. Time will tell.

Next step is to rebuild front end with new cam belt, bearings and WP. Still waiting on some parts so that will dictate progress.

[Benckj]

Continue to make progress although not as fast as I would like. Been waiting on some parts to arrive although did receive a nice parcel from Toyota yesterday (full gasket kit, WP, t-stat and axle seal). Mark the rep at Toyota is a real asset and its great to see him support the club the way he does. I'm always impressed with the OEM products and combined with his service with club discount it makes these jobs goe much easier.

Still grappling with the turbo adaptor manifold. Orderd a T3-T4 one from China which came in approx 1 week which was nice. Although size and spacings are correct to use with the twin entry ct20 manifold it is 90deg out of phase. I've now cut off T4 flange and have a work mate welding it up for me. Will try and improve the weld quality as well as double weld inside. Plan to use a support bracket as I do not like the idea of hanging all the weight from flange. Also have to sort out some AN fittings as things don't exactly match up.

Whle engine is ot have spent some time claning up and painting some parts such as exhaust, engine VC & plenum, brackets, etc. Trying a Rustoleum high heat product on the exhaust which seems to be working quite well. Rated to 650C so it remains to be seen how well it will hold up especially on DP. I like the brush oo paint though because it provides a thick coating which insulates in addition to protecting much like a ceramic coating. Time will tell if it works or not.

Have pulled axles to bits and am waiting on some parts from Reuban and Stateside to re-build. Will report on this along with some pics later on.

[Benckj]

Still plugging away at this project although slow at the moment. I knew this part would take some time to sort out correct parts and mods. Will hopefully be ready to install engine in a couple of weeks. This weekends work is out due to prior comittment in Dunners.

Managed to replace cam oil seals as I noticed a little seep from the exhaust side. Did both as well as install adjustable gear. Installed new water pump & gaskets which wasn't a big deal. Searched through kit to find oil pump shaft seal but nothing there. This seal is recomeneded to do as it tends to leak later on. Contacted Mark at Toyota and he said the full kit can vary with the seals as the manufacture sees fit. Figured it should be in kit so he has supplied x-stock free of charge. Installed RHS axle seal as apparently OEM is the only correct supplier.

Worked on the t3/t4 turbo install having my Chinese bracket rotated 90deg and re-welded. The orginal welds look pretty but no penetration into flange. Difficult to weld the 15mm flange to 2mm plate so overall I'm very happy with the result and hope it lasts without splitting. Painted the outside with a high heat paint (650C) I'm experimenting with. Hoping its good enough to keep manifold from rusting and can keep track of any changes. Have used paint on exhaust which is a much lower temp than manifold. Getting another adapter made at my boys workshop which will be from 30mm plate with no welds. Installed oil supply & return lines and built a support bracket to hold turbine end so there isn't as much stress on upper mount. Cover plate still fits well over whole lot which is nice. Will still adjust lines after engine is installed and DP modified to ensure enough free space. Probably need to clock turbine side around a tad to get a better angle now that I look at it with fittings attached.









Busted down axle cages and cleaned up a mountain of grease. Received new cages and bearings but no boots, clips or cans. Had miscommunication with CRW and they only sent me the basic kit. Have now struck a deal with Josh and he is sending rest over along with a replacement braided clutch line and a solid roller clevis bearing. Something else I always wanted to do but shipping cost always killed the thought. Costs are mounting up but hopefully on completion I can have a fire sale and earn a little $$ back making some of these spare parts available to others. Ct20b, KO DP, axle cage kits,KN oil filters, etc will be some of the bits on offer.

[GDII]

Progress is looking good.

That turbo drain line looks awfully long and takes a very wide path. Are you sure that will fit in the car without rubbing on the firewall or other parts?

[Benckj]

Like I said I will need to clock the turbo a bit to rotate it down and then trim line to suit. Would rather leave long now as I can always shorten it after engine is installed. Best to make sure I keep well away from DP.

[Benckj]

Just received two oil pump seals which were not included in the full kit. Mark sent to me for free which was great. Looks like I'm now going to remove pump and replace back O ring.

[Benckj]

Apart from the exterior paint work I'm aopproahing the end of my list. Replaced oil pump seals and installed timing belt. Need to double check the belt and final torque of the major front end components. Will also adjust the exhaust cam gear by -3deg when I'm confident that belt is adjusted correctly with adequate tension. Thinking I need to move by a tooth on WP side before pulling gernade pin.

Clocked the turbine and compressor sections of the turbo to allow oil lines more clearance. Modified actuator bracket and connected to wastegate. Still need to test with compressor and ensure actuator opens at approx 8-10psi. Following this I'm ready to install engine back into car this weekend. Still waiting on the axle boots so after I get engine installed will complete exhaust and axles.

Pic of oil pump below for reference. Quite easy and inexpensive to replace front seal and back O ring. I was surprised at how the internal O ring was quite hard even though I did not have any leaks.

[JasonFriday13]

Thinking I need to move by a tooth on WP side before pulling gernade pin.

Just a tip, once you think you have the timing set up properly, rotate the crankshaft forward 720 degrees and see if all the marks still line up.

You're making good progress, and it looks quite smooth with very few problems.

[Benckj]

Figured once Im happy with belt Ill rotate around a few times to make sure it is aligned correctly. Not too many problems so far. Couple of minor set backs and some extra parts.

[Benckj]

Quick update.

Timing belt completed and everything lock righted and torqued down. Retarded exhaust cam by 3 deg and rotated crank several times over to check and double check positions.

Checked actuator with 10psi and no movement. Will need to pull off and bench test to get right tension. Decided to install engine so neighbour can finish exhaust. I can work away on connections and rebuild axles now that I received boots, clips and cans.

Picked up a few odds and sods like exhaust flange, LWSP oil to top up trans and water wetter for adding into coolant (engine & a2w). With some luck I'll just about have it all back together by end of weekend.

[Benckj]

Figured I'd better update this as I'm nearing completion.

Engine installed without any major issues. Had to pull front motor mount and new turbo sticks out a tad more which kept fouling on mount. Installed welded DP and bracket which allowed me to trim turbo oil return line so it didn't touch hot exhaust. It was a little tricky as the oil flange fitting came out right where the the shift cables emerge from firewall. Manged to install AC compressor, all mounts, chassis cross memebr and newe clutch line without a hitch. Adjusted and tested actuator. Not entirely happy with the lenght it moves under pressure so may need to work on after car is mobile. Unlike the CT20b it is easy to get access for removal or adjustment.

Spent good portion of weekend re-building axles with HD cages and installing gasket, boots, clips and cans. Very frustrating and messy job which I wouldn't like to repeat anytime soon. New cages are much tighter than OEM and thicker steel. Very impressed with CRW kit especially new cans, boots and clips. Shoulders still hurt from installing the long side into the trans by myself without damaging the new axle seal. Would have been much easier if I didn't have chassis and exhaust to work around. Suspension & hubs all connected back up ready to torque bolts then lower car back down to normal working height.

[Benckj]

Excellent progress over the weekend to complete this project (minus paint work) although outcome is bitter-sweet

All bolts torqued down to speci- check
All electrical connections cleaned and clicked into place including ECU- check
Coolant hoses conncted and fluids filled with no leaks- check
Fuel hoses connected and tested with pump running for leaks- check
Transmission fluid added and checked for seal leaks- check
A2W installed and fluid filled with no leaks- check
Cluth and brake fluid changed and properly bled- check
Final pre-start checked and all systems go. Battery charged and connected- check
Started first pop and monitored at steady idle for leaks, oil & fuel pressure, noise, etc. Fluids top upped and burbed at operating temp.-check
Shut down after 20 minutes running to re-check fluids, etc once pressurised- check
Re-started and clutch engaged for gear selection without rear wheels on. CV joints good along with axle seals no leaks- check
Wheels, underbody plastics, A2W duct installed and removed from inbedded jackstands ready for short 2 km run. Good clutch engament and gear selection, positive boost of 3psi reached with great responce- check.
Cool down and re-recheck fluids and any possible leaks- check.
Take car for second 2 km run and complete loss of oil pressure during journey, oil light on and major leak around turbo area! All lines & fittings look OK but only managed to get home after re-filling 4 litres of oil.- FAIL

On the good note there is no engine knock or noise but I did run without sufficient oil for several hundred meters. Need to remove heat shield and have a good look at turbo feed & return lines and fittings to see if they failed. First visual checks indicate they are fine but with so much oil lost it has to be something significant. From oil marks on drive it started losing oil the minute I re-started car following initial drive. Will update when I investigate tonight.

[Benckj]

Outcome

Burst internal braided oil supply line to turbo close to exhaust manifold. Time to get sometime certified rather than one of those kits sourced from China.

Now for the million dollar question; how long do the bearings last in a 3sgte without oil?