another alternator/battery issue

[Swampy]

I have a 330 CCA battery in my car which is just over a year old but have serious issues as it gets flat in no time. Sometimes less than 24 hours. I've even flattened it to below the point where it has enough juice to start the car, by sitting in my car and charging my phone which died.

I keep my car hooked up to a 3 stage trickle charger now.

How do I work out if it's an issue with the alternator? I've thought about it and decided best thing to do would be 1. replacement and work out a deal where I can replace with a larger battery if still under warranty (I keep receipts) or 2. buy cheap refurbished battery. If that doesn't solve the issue then the alternator needs attention?

[Benckj]

Best to work out the problem first before parts swapping. Get yourself a cheapy multimeter and measure battery voltage on stand by, idle and when reving engine.

Remember cold crank amps CCA ratings are different than amp hour AH. Because of my high electrical load my CCA is 650 and use a 720ah battery.

[MIKEP]

Battery problems are always good ones and alternators take an awful lot of blame for things that aren't their fault.

Firstly 330 CCA isn't the rating of your battery the 330 amps refers to the COLD cranking Amps-CCA is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. Generally speaking, it is easier to start an engine in a warm environment than in a cold environment. The rating refers to the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.

RC is a general indicator of how long a new, fully charged battery can continue to operate essential accessories if the vehicle’s alternator fails. It identifies how many minutes the battery can deliver a constant current of 25 amps at 80°F without falling below the minimum voltage, 1.75 volts per cell, needed to keep your vehicle running.

If your car is loosing charge whilst sitting the problem is normally in the Car not the battery.

You need to check the voltage of the battery when it is fully charged and make sure it is around 13.6 volts . Then put an ammeter in series with the battery while the vehicle is not running and see if there is current being drawn. If so you need to look for it.

If the battery is not fully charged check the voltage across it with the engine running this will let you know if your alternator is putting out enough voltage.

Also be aware if your 3 stage charger is not a good one it cannot "condition your battery" and will only give it a surface charge

Traditional "float" chargers, which provide constant voltage with tapering amperage to the battery even when it is fully charged. The typical floating charging voltage ranges from 13.0 to 13.8 volts.
2.Fully automatic multistage or multistep chargers, which monitor the battery and charge it as necessary. Multistage maintainers will charge at varying voltages and varying amperage. Some of these multistep chargers are also capable of working well as a battery charger.

If it is not possible to use a maintenance charger, disconnect the battery from the vehicle during storage to prevent the vehicle from discharging the battery. Always provide a full charge with a battery charger prior to storage, then check the battery voltage every three to six months and charge if it falls below 12.4 volts. Also, when possible, store your battery in a cool, dry location.

I would suggest you check leads and earths and check for loads and if not then have your battery tested with a "Carbon PIle tester" or Dummy load at a battery shop

It may be you have a defective cell and an alternator wont help you . Let me know what you find

[JasonFriday13]

Firstly 330 CCA isn't the rating of your battery the 330 amps refers to the COLD cranking Amps-CCA is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. Generally speaking, it is easier to start an engine in a warm environment than in a cold environment. The rating refers to the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.

I think SW20's have a 530 CCA battery from the factory. My 1997 hatchback takes a 430 CCA from the factory.

If your car is losing charge whilst sitting the problem is normally in the Car not the battery.

You need to check the voltage of the battery when it is fully charged and make sure it is around 13.6 volts . Then put an ammeter in series with the battery while the vehicle is not running and see if there is current being drawn. If so you need to look for it.

Agreed. Something is drawing power while the key is off.

[GDII]

Have yo done any electrical modifications lately? Stereo, alarm?

[Swampy]

Have yo done any electrical modifications lately? Stereo, alarm?

Well the insurance guys put in a flashing led for my alarm, that's it. I have a CD changer which turns on when the key is turned to on/run position.

Looks like I will have to get a multimeter and work out my battery's voltage and also see if current is being drawn while the car is not running. Cheers for the help guys. Maybe it's just a case of needing to biff the baby battery and get something that has the correct CCA and AH rating.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Because of my high electrical load my CCA is 650 and use a 720ah battery.

You wont fit a 720Ah Lead acid battery in a mr2. You might have a 72Ah battery, but even that you would struggle to fit in a SW20.

[MIKEP]

Even a 75 Ah @C5 is only up to295 Ah(C5)


Battery "C" Rating

Battery Capacity 85 Ah

C5 HOURS 303 AH Load60.6 AMPS
C10 HOURS 340 AH Load 34.0 AMPS
C20 HOURS 370 AH Load18.5 AMPS
C100 HOURS 411 AH Load 4.11 AMPS

Battery Charging
The time taken to recharge any battery is dependent on the voltage and current applied. If the
recharge current or voltage is too low, then the recharge time will be relatively long; if the current or
voltage is high then the recharge time will be short.
However, as all batteries involve an electrochemical reaction, care must be taken to ensure the
charging characteristics of both battery and charger are matched correctly.
These unique needs must be met to obtain reliable service and long life. al. Deviations from the ideal are acceptable but will lower
the life expectancy of the battery to some degree, heat being the greater detrimental factor

[JasonFriday13]

Have yo done any electrical modifications lately? Stereo, alarm?

Well the insurance guys put in a flashing led for my alarm, that's it. I have a CD changer which turns on when the key is turned to on/run position.

Looks like I will have to get a multimeter and work out my battery's voltage and also see if current is being drawn while the car is not running. Cheers for the help guys. Maybe it's just a case of needing to biff the baby battery and get something that has the correct CCA and AH rating.

Alarms do draw a bit of current, there's not much you can do about that. LED's draw bugger all current, so it's not that.

330CCA are for older small cars that have bugger all electronics in them (basically anything with a carburettor).

[Benckj]

my CCA is 650 and use a 720ah battery.

My mistake, its an Exide XN50ZZMF Extreme rated at 730CCA and 85ahr. Largest battery that will fit into the frunk cubby hole.

[mknz]

330CCA are for older small cars that have bugger all electronics in them (basically anything with a carburettor).

Not at all, it has more to do with engine size and shape. Many modern cars with ~<=1.3L engines have them from the factory; jazz, yaris, insert trolley here. 1.5~1.8 430, 2-2.4 530. Obviously a very rough guideline.

Modern electronics are much more power efficient, especially processors and LED lights. Also the amount of power the alternator provides is more important for items that are on while the car is running(ECU, lights, ignition, radio, etc). Granted yes if you have a puny battery you can run out of juice while the car isn't on quite quickly and some modern cars only recharge under certain conditions and some other things make this more complicated.

Point is new cars run 330CCA batteries too

[Swampy]

Hmm today while starting up I heard a high pitched noise from my alternator as if it was getting "in gear" or warmed up, my lights dimmed and then went back to full strength after the noise had ended.

Also my ignition has been repaired after the car was broken into so when I remove the key I always am sure to only leave the car after the ignition has made the clicking sound that usually happens when you remove the key (mine sticks).

I guess I will only find out more after I've got a multimeter

[MIKEP]

That sounds like a belt slipping noise> Have you tried checking your belt tension?

[JasonFriday13]

Yep, slipping alternator belt, it needs to be tightened up a little. I think that click when you remove the key is for locking the ignition barrel so that it can only be turned when the key is inserted (that's how I think it works).