Nice!
OK Paul, you need to be there mate.
Mr-Paulio wrote:...I just need to sort my suspension set up. Which was mean on the last run! (Apart from the body rub) But I messed with it and now it feels like I'm driving a boat!
You adjusting it yourself Paul?
What I find seems to work well on an AW is basically like this:
Rear: some camber and between 5mm and 10mm toe-in (OEM is 5mm).
I tend to run slightly more than the OEM rear toe-in as it allows me to push harder through the corners because the loaded (outside) rear wheel tries to turn the back of the car in, instead of letting it hang out. Though it can also make for increased rear bump-steer but you get used to that.
The amount of camber should basically offset the toe-in so the tyre tread wears evenly.
Toe-in wears the outer edge of the tread, increased camber reduces that tendency.
Front: tiny bit of camber and between 1mm and 2mm toe-in (OEM).
If you add camber on the front you will need to increase the toe-in.
However the OEM setup on the front makes the car very responsive and turn in easily.
It can also make the car feel unstable and tail-happy if the rear sway bar or shocks are too stiff compared to the front.
Once the camber and toe-in are set up, adjust a sway bar (if adjustable) or the shocks to get the car nicely balanced when pushing it hard through the corners.
Stiffer on the front will understeer. Stiffer on the rear will oversteer.
To measure the toe-in I clamp a straight thing on the outside of each wheel, near the bottom of the wheel.
I use bits of wood but ideally I'd be using small (25mm?) box section steel, slightly longer than a tyre's diameter.
Car on the deck. Make a mark on the straight thing in line with the front and rear edges of the tyre.
Get a tape measure and note the distance between the rear marks and then measure the distance between the front marks.
Rear distance minus front distance = toe-in, in mm.
The OEM front adjusters give about 10mm toe-in per turn so it doesn't take much, but you can dial it in quite well.
If using the OEM camber adjusters in the struts (yay for AW's) be aware that as you add camber the geometry changes and it will add an overdose of to-in too, which you will then need to reduce a little. I don't know but I suspect that coil-overs may also do the same, as they are going to effect the rest of the suspension components and their geometry as it's all attached...
When I ran a lot of front camber to prevent tyre rub on the guards, I had to run about the same toe-in on the front as on the rear. The car felt stable and could be thrown through the corners reasonably well (as when you rode shotgun through Woodcock's Rd) but it was far less responsive and I had to be quite rough with it to get it to turn in, pretty-much sliding all 4 wheels. With the front camber much nearer vertical and the front toe-in nearer 1mm (OEM) the car feels immensely more responsive and turns in very easily, requiring a light hand on the wheel. In fact it felt unstable and skittish last weekend until I firmed up the front shocks. Now it feels brilliant.
To sum up: even if the car is lowered or on firmer than standard suspension then in my experience it still needs camber and toe-in set up close to OEM spec and after that it's just a case of balancing things by way of sway bar or shock adjustment. Firmer front sway bar or shocks = less oversteer.
(Put an SW rear sway bar in a totally standard AW and see what happens LOL. Flat flat flat flat SNAP).
If you have a heavier engine in the back you may need to firm up the front shocks or stiffen the front sway bar to reduce the oversteer introduced by the heavier back end. So if you firmed up the back end to stop body roll caused by that extra weight, you are likely to end up with a very firm ride by the time you firm up the front even more.
Anyway I know this isn't really the right place for a post about wheel alignment and handling but it is actually relevant to whether you make it to the run so stuff it, there it is.
I hope it helps.
(Club members will still find this info if using Search to suss out wheel alignment anyway)
Be there Paul! 
It will be great to see the rest of you guys on this run too! 
