ClanFevers's APEXED 1992 GT-Limited (Continued)

[ClanFever]

http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11706 - link to original build

I've decided to make a second thread for my mr2 - continued so to speak. This time around I want to do more frequent updates, with more facts and more photos.

The car is a 1992 G-Limited with a 3S-GTE from a 1990 GT (So a GT-Limited so to speak)

Just dropped it off to my mechanic, who originally was just going to do the head gasket. Did some chatting and we've decided to drop it and do a full engine rebuild. I have an LSD to chuck in so going to do the gearbox too. It's been having head and heating issues for a while so it's time to do something about it. I believe the engine has about 200,000km on it, so does the chassis, however it's flash white 260km/h speedo states 82,000km. Had the belts and HFH's done a few thousand kms ago, however these will need to be looked at as the engine has been overheated fully on at least one occasion. A tune will also be done if it's still running rich once the engine is all good and dandy.

Few things planned that aren't mechanically related as well so watch this space!

[Benckj]

Excellent, keep us posted with the progress reports.
Hope you have made up a decent 'to do' list while engine is out. Its hard to balance time/money vs goals.

[ClanFever]

Excellent, keep us posted with the progress reports.
Hope you have made up a decent 'to do' list while engine is out. Its hard to balance time/money vs goals.

Something like that, it's a list that will grow and shrink as the perky mechanic finds stuff that is in good condition or is not.




"I won't get around to doing any work till at least Thursday night" Pictures from last night (Monday) haha what a good lier

So I thought possibly I may be able to score a cheaper rebuild then I currently have access too. I'm saving for a house and at the end of the day a nice gen1/2 sw20 turbo mr2 isn't worth a hell of a lot. Originally I was just going to do the head gasket - as Russell (perky mechanic) wasn't going to take the motor out. He is now, which is why I thought lets get the motor rebuilt. Now that I may have to go RRP or at least trade for a rebuild it's still going to be a heck of a lot - more then I want to spend on my mr2 and it's money I need to put away for a house. Tough decisions but we're going to have a look at the motor when it's out and decide what's best. I have this LSD here so I will be getting that inserted regardless of cost as the gearbox can be used on any gen 2 3s-gte I use further down the track so that's kind of an investment. I will be getting a new clutch and the flywheel machined, as well as the other minor jobs I have for the mr2 (alternator rebuild one of the major minor ones).

I'll get the rest of the "cool" stuff I have together and get some photos of the other non mechanic things I have in store - a Tom's spoiler and snorkel combo I've had sitting around for 2 years will finally find their way on board. Things like that!

[Benckj]

... it's a list that will grow and shrink as the perky mechanic finds stuff that is in good condition or is not

This statement sets the re-build philosophy as long as you keep a handle on it. can be summed up as 'dont fix it, if not broke'.

Just be warned its very easy to fall into the trap of "might as well replace XXX while we are there as its much easier to do now". Keep costs, timeframe and goals all in check. If your not in complete control and manage properly its so easy to overspend while not increasing any value with car. Plenty of examples on TM like this.

[GDII]

If you are going to do it, do it right the first time and you'll have a trouble free future. Plus if you get a proper mechanic to do the job the rebuild comes with a warranty.
The problem with GEN2 3SGTEs is they are getting old and most have high KMs and are broken. Buy a crashed Caldina and bolt that engine in. Just a suggestion. Would cost you similar for a far better engine package.
You have 95% of what you need to get it to bolt in. Just need a fuel line, water neck and other minor things. Wiring can be done again with help from some members who have done it before.

[Alsw20]

If I was about to buy a house and my toy needed work, I would do the bare minimum to get it back on the road and useable. You do not want another unfinished project that ends up on Trademe in six months because you had to stop the mechanic half way through because the ball and chain closes the purse strings.

[ClanFever]

If I was about to buy a house and my toy needed work, I would do the bare minimum to get it back on the road and useable. You do not want another unfinished project that ends up on Trademe in six months because you had to stop the mechanic half way through because the ball and chain closes the purse strings.

This basically. I'm happy if I get at least 2 more years. Once I actually have a garage time won't be an issue, so money technically won't be as can slowly put it together.

[ClanFever]

LSD, and new clutch kit! I should be able to use the old fly wheel - I'll just get it machined.

[Benckj]

Very pretty. Should get a decent lifespan from running OEM. Make sure you pull off selector fork and clean/grease pivot points. Can't remember if the TOB requires grease as it is supplied dry. Others may be able to chime in on some advice.

[GDII]

Looks good. Hopefully this sorts your clutch issue. Be sure to grab some photos of the old clutch as I'm curious to see it's condition.

Yeah your flywheel should be fine to reuse. Good idea that you are getting it machined.

I greased up the internal part of the TOB that fits over the gearbox shaft.
Places to grease at the fork pivot point like what Jim said and the gearbox input shaft. The BGB covers it all. Step 40 page MX2-97.

40. INSTALL RELEASE FORK AND BEARING
Apply molybdenum disulphide lithium base grease to the following parts.
: Input shaft spline
: Release fork contact surface

[Benckj]

Another consideration before installation is the replacement of the flywheel bolts. Unsure if the OEM ones can be re-used as I never pulled my flywheel when doing clutch. ARB makes some high tensile bolts for around $45/set.

[GDII]

He has a qualified mechanic doing the work for him so I think we can be sure he's going to know what he has to do and what he needs to replace.

Flywheel bolts can be reused, they are only done up to 80ft-lbf.

[Benckj]

Flywheel bolts can be reused, they are only done up to 80ft-lbf

Its not the torque setting its depends on if they a Stretch To Yield like head bolts. Re-installing can cause fractures & fail.

[GDII]

Yeah I know what you mean. The BGB doesn't state that you have to get new flywheel bolts. I've reused mine when I swapped engines recently and no issues at all. I used locktite too as a thread sealer due to the fact the bolts seal the back of the crank from leaking oil from the crank case.

[Benckj]

Good point about sealing the holes and using locktight. Probably OK to re-use especially if not building engine to rev past 8500rpm. I've seen the ARP flywheel bolts on TM which made me think the OEM's were disposable.