Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

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4CylinderSpecial
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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby 4CylinderSpecial » Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:02 pm

From my experience with a Soarer and knowledge of Celisors with this type of accumulator I think this one also replaces the standard vacuum brake booster system and uses stored brake pressure in the accumulator as a booster instead. Do the brakes work normally (still have an assisted feeling) for a bit when your engine is off?

Otherwise it probably stores pressure for the ABS unit itself and would then also work even if your engine switched off.

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Jabeo
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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Jabeo » Mon Feb 11, 2019 11:11 am

As i have been slowly acquiring different parts and getting some things sorted out for the car for toyota fest (namely getting the new wing prepped for paint) as well as looking into re doing my thermostat, coolant sensor, coolant, and some brake upgrades such as pads and fluid, i have acquired some new seats for the car :D

For a good deal i have purchased a pair of evo 4 SR3 recaros from Adam, They came with a pair of nzkw seat rails as well. I have always liked these seats as they are a racey seat but retain an oem vibe. the bolsters hold you in much better than the oem seats do and they are very comfy. The seats are in good condition but do have a a bit of bolster wear on both the drivers side and passengers side, so one day i hope to get these reupholstered in different fabric with new foam.

I gave the seats a bit of a wet vac when i got them so clean them up real nice, using some delicate fabric washing liquid with it to pull out the grime. The seat rails work well and the fitment is good, just a bit fiddly aligning them up straight in the car. The oem seat belts are retained, attached to the seat rails. i could not use the oem seat belt bolt, so i have used another nut and bolt with washers to fasten the buckle to the seat. I am very pleased overall and they look right at home in the car :D

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1992 MR2 GT Turbo :twisted: Complete with Traction control!
1997 N/A Honda Civic EK3 :twisted:

:!: Follow me on Instagram :!: https://www.instagram.com/jabeo_waho/
Im still learning a lot about cars so bear with me!

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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Benckj » Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:09 pm

Those look awesome! When I installed my Recaros I came close to purchasing a pair similar to those. Think they came out of an Evo8.
How is the driving ride height? Being 6'4" I had to get mine as close to the floor and back so I had sufficient head/leg room.
Jim Benck
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Jabeo
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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Jabeo » Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:29 pm

Benckj wrote:Those look awesome! When I installed my Recaros I came close to purchasing a pair similar to those. Think they came out of an Evo8.
How is the driving ride height? Being 6'4" I had to get mine as close to the floor and back so I had sufficient head/leg room.


thanks! the leg room and height is relatively close to the oem seat. I would say that i might sit higher if the seats were brand new though. The passenger seat feels like it sits a tiny bit higher that oem but i think thats down to it not being used as much as the drivers side. Im quite tall as well and the seats slide back and recline enough for me to have a comfortable experience :)
1992 MR2 GT Turbo :twisted: Complete with Traction control!
1997 N/A Honda Civic EK3 :twisted:

:!: Follow me on Instagram :!: https://www.instagram.com/jabeo_waho/
Im still learning a lot about cars so bear with me!

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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Benckj » Mon Feb 11, 2019 1:30 pm

What I found with my Recaros is that although they sit lower and further back than OEM they are more firm. This means you do not sink into as far as the OEM's. This conforms with your passenger vs driver seat observation. Just something for others to consider when choosing an aftermarket seat as I'm sure you will get plenty of inquiries on how to do'.

Keep up the good work.
Jim Benck
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Jabeo
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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Jabeo » Mon Feb 11, 2019 1:53 pm

Benckj wrote:What I found with my Recaros is that although they sit lower and further back than OEM they are more firm. This means you do not sink into as far as the OEM's. This conforms with your passenger vs driver seat observation. Just something for others to consider when choosing an aftermarket seat as I'm sure you will get plenty of inquiries on how to do'.

Keep up the good work.


Yeah i definitely see (and feel!) what you mean. They are firm but still very comfy, and just from driving to work today i definitely feel more planted in the seat as i go around some fast corners
1992 MR2 GT Turbo :twisted: Complete with Traction control!
1997 N/A Honda Civic EK3 :twisted:

:!: Follow me on Instagram :!: https://www.instagram.com/jabeo_waho/
Im still learning a lot about cars so bear with me!

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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby thorns » Tue Feb 12, 2019 9:27 am

Seats look great, big improvement over the stockers.

Do they need to be certed at all?
1990 SW20 Turbo, Previously 1991 Green SW20 Turbo basket case

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Jabeo
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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Jabeo » Tue Feb 12, 2019 10:44 am

thorns wrote:Seats look great, big improvement over the stockers.

Do they need to be certed at all?


potentially, however the seats fall under an LVV ruling for seat modifications not requiring a certification where "the seat is either an unmodified OE seat from another vehicle or of a known and reputable aftermarket brand, and the seat components (including brackets, runners and rails) are compatible with each other, ie they are either OE components from a production vehicle or of a known and reputable aftermarket brand, and are not fitted together by welding"

As far as i know the seats and seat rails fall under this specification as they are an oem mitsubishi seat made by recaro on known brand seat rails (however this might be a gray area here for both WOF and a future cert) however it only takes all of 10ish minutes to swap oem seats back in if i must
1992 MR2 GT Turbo :twisted: Complete with Traction control!
1997 N/A Honda Civic EK3 :twisted:

:!: Follow me on Instagram :!: https://www.instagram.com/jabeo_waho/
Im still learning a lot about cars so bear with me!

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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby 4CylinderSpecial » Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:22 pm

I've done a bit of reading and from what I've gathered you can no longer have a 'stressed' seatbelt mount anymore which means having the stalk mounted to aftermarket rails is not even certable any more. This is because you need a proof of strength for the rails and most manufactures don't provide any. It apparently needs to be mounted to the chassis and certed that way. Although whether or not this gets picked up and who interprets the rules is another thing entirely.

I found this out just before buying some new bucket seats and rails.

LVVT Website wrote:There is a misconception that these branded rails never require LVV certification. In most cases LVV certification is required, because the seatbelt anchorages are commonly removed from the OE seat and fixed to the new rails or to the floor.


LVVT Website wrote:Seatbelt stalk mounting:
The seatbelt buckle is often mounted to the OE seat, and the OE rails and brackets are designed to take the buckle loads, spread across all four anchorages to a varying degree. When a sport seat is fitted along with new rails and brackets the seatbelt buckle anchorage is affected. The picture at right shows the buckle mounted to a non-OE bracket on the top side of the rail, so it moves with the seat. This becomes a stressed seat, and in this case the LVV Seat and Seat Anchorage Standard requires proof of strength; - this is not usually available for aftermarket rails.


https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/info ... mation.pdf

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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Alsw20 » Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:26 pm

Yep. If you have to take the seatbelt off the stock seat and attach it to the new seat rail, you need a cert.

I get away with it on my FX-GT because it has seatbelt stalks that are attached to the floorpan of the car not the seat.

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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Jabeo » Mon Feb 25, 2019 12:29 pm

So last week i had hit up the great guys at north shore Toyota and picked up a few parts for the car. These included a new temp gauge sender, a new thermostat, both new valve cover gaskets (bit of an oil leak) as well as a new Turbosmart manual boost controller. I also went and picked up some meter long rubber hose to use with this as well. This is mainly due to what i have narrowed down to either a tvsv only giving me 9psi or i have an issue else where.

On Sunday i got onto the install of the controller, which was relatively painless compared to other peoples experiences. I removed the filter and MAF sensor as well as the rubber elbow including all attached hoses such as the blowoff valve pipe and the valve cover vent tubes. Snapped a pic of my turbo, it had minimal play and spins freely although it is a bit dirty. I put that down to the lack of a catch can as the rubber elbow before the compressor housing had a bit of oil in there, so i might need to add a catch can to my list.

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With these parts out of the way i have more room to work, and even then there is still little space to get at it. i used needle nose pliers to open the hose clamps, and was able to wiggle off the hose from the turbo compressor housing to the left side port of the waste gate. following this i lightly heated up the ends of the new hose so they would slip on better as well as tiny tiny amount of crc on my finger i rubbed onto the metal port as lubricant for the hose. They slipped on with no issues but due the hose not being as thick as the old one, i could not use the same hose clamps. I took the ones off the oem blow off valve hoses and used those and replaced them with zipties (didnt want zipties near the heat of the turbo)

Next up i had to remove the small hose between the right side of the wastegate and the tvsv. it was being a pain so i cut a split in the hose to get it off. I then pushed a rubber vacuum cap on to the wastegate port and used another smaller hose clam i had spare. I then cut the hose i removed clean across after the split i made, and then tightly fit a bolt and clamp into it to block it off. Then i slid it back on to the tvsv port that i pulled it off of.

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I cut the meter hose in half and fixed the wastegate hose to the wastegate side and the turbo side to the turbo side. i used the provided mounting bracket to fasten it to an open thread on the MAF sensor. Because i plan to remove the charcoal canister at some point, i used the hose holder/clips to tidy up the vacuum hoses going to the controller, so it looks very tidy.

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The controller uses a reverse threaded dial to adjust the boost, so i set it fully anticlockwise (screwing it down) so that the bleed valve was shut and the path for the boost from the turbo to wastegate was fully open. after some full pulls in each gear i was sitting at 7psi (wastegate pressure) as i expected, i adjusted it a few clicks and repeated and got 8-9psi and so forth working my way up to around 12-13psi. I am very happy with the results, simple install with a tidy finished result. The boost comes on smoothly and quickly, just feels like it doesnt hit as hard as it did when i was on stock set up. the notchy adjustability is nice and the product is doing great so far. very happy :D :D and as a side note, igot some cheap dress up washers from aliexpress and am very happy with them, it has added a bit of colour to the bay. I will be painting the valve cover daytona yellow so that should help too

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1992 MR2 GT Turbo :twisted: Complete with Traction control!
1997 N/A Honda Civic EK3 :twisted:

:!: Follow me on Instagram :!: https://www.instagram.com/jabeo_waho/
Im still learning a lot about cars so bear with me!

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Jabeo
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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Jabeo » Sun Mar 03, 2019 10:46 pm

So today was a busy day of work! got under way with a few of the things i have been meaning to do before toyota fest, namely replacing the rocker cover gasket. The cover has had oil buil up around the edges of the cover since ive owned it and as well as this there is a little bit of oil that likes to drop down into the 2 middle spark plug wells. As well as doing this i planned on replacing all of the phillips head screws with some stainless steel cap screws. There are 10 of them to do and it requires 7 M6x25 and 3 M6x50 cap screws. The reason for doing this is that the phillips screws can be prone to stripping if they are done up tight and you need to undo them, they also look a lot nicer and cleaner as well.

I removed all of the throttle body components, traction control unit, speedo cable, iacv and all accompanying hoses and lines and got the leads out of the way. I went about removing the screws and they were ALL loose, literally no effort to remove them :shock: this might explain the amount of oil that had spilled over the edge over time. With that i got to removing all of the old screws and moving the sealing washers over to the new bolts (namely because i didnt have a replacement for them, and am yet to find a replacement). A big screw driver and some light taps with a hammer popped the cover off easily without issue. The valve train looks to be in pretty good shape, same with the cams they are nice and shiny/smooth with no obvious signs of damage or scoring.

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From here i got to CAREFULLY scraping off all the old gasket and goop with a razor blade, which was very time consuming and then i went on and did the same to the valve cover. once done to my satisfaction, i got to cleaning it up with some degreaser, brakecleen and some wire brushes and towels. From here i let it dry, then masked it up ready for paint work. I filled in the mounting holes with the old screws to ensure paint wasnt getting into the holes. I first laid down 4 coats of high heat grey enamel primer followed by 5 coats of high heat daytona yellow paint, both from supercheap. I let sit for a few hours once done to set and cure for a bit in the sun. Personally i think it looks so good, the paint job is not perfect and there are a few dust particles and bits in the paint, which i expected from where i live.

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After removing the tape, i flipped it over to wipe down the inside edges with wax and grease remover to get rid of any over spray. i then laid in the 2 piece gasket to the cover, and as per the bgb instructions i laid down some high temp red gasket maker in the 6 corners of where the cams are on the head. carefully laid the cover back down without issue and fastened it down and then proceeded without much issue. Overall the job was satisfying and relatively painless, just very time consuming. Let me know what you think of the paint job! im going for a black with yellow accents look for the car :D
1992 MR2 GT Turbo :twisted: Complete with Traction control!
1997 N/A Honda Civic EK3 :twisted:

:!: Follow me on Instagram :!: https://www.instagram.com/jabeo_waho/
Im still learning a lot about cars so bear with me!

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Jabeo
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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Jabeo » Sun Mar 03, 2019 10:48 pm

Jesus these photos definitely did not post in the order i set them to lol
1992 MR2 GT Turbo :twisted: Complete with Traction control!
1997 N/A Honda Civic EK3 :twisted:

:!: Follow me on Instagram :!: https://www.instagram.com/jabeo_waho/
Im still learning a lot about cars so bear with me!

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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby thorns » Mon Mar 04, 2019 7:43 am

Nice work, good productive weekend it seems!
1990 SW20 Turbo, Previously 1991 Green SW20 Turbo basket case

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Jabeo
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Re: Jabeo's 1992 MR2 GT

Postby Jabeo » Wed Mar 06, 2019 9:54 am

A Couple of shots from a group shot some guys in Hamilton did with a friend last night. Follow him on Instagram @eos_brad he takes some good shots for a photographer who is still learning :)
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1992 MR2 GT Turbo :twisted: Complete with Traction control!
1997 N/A Honda Civic EK3 :twisted:

:!: Follow me on Instagram :!: https://www.instagram.com/jabeo_waho/
Im still learning a lot about cars so bear with me!