Levi's 1996 GT-S

[GDII]

BTW that KU manifold will fit GEN3, 4 and 5 heads. However you may need to check the GEN4-5 fuel rail as they use top feed injectors and are longer than the GEN3 side feed setup.

[4CylinderSpecial]

BTW that KU manifold will fit GEN3, 4 and 5 heads. However you may need to check the GEN4-5 fuel rail as they use top feed injectors and are longer than the GEN3 side feed setup.

Cheers Phil. Took the mr2 for a test drive and it did really well. Unfortunately my rear right calliper seems to have seized up again and cooked that brake. So am going to get rebuild kits for all four corners to do. Woo!

[GDII]

BTW that KU manifold will fit GEN3, 4 and 5 heads. However you may need to check the GEN4-5 fuel rail as they use top feed injectors and are longer than the GEN3 side feed setup.

Cheers Phil. Took the mr2 for a test drive and it did really well. Unfortunately my rear right calliper seems to have seized up again and cooked that brake. So am going to get rebuild kits for all four corners to do. Woo!

Check your handbrake cable operation too. If the cable seizes up or has limited movement it can hold the brakes on too.

[4CylinderSpecial]

My cloth seats unfortunately began to wear out so I picked up some turbo leather seats in order to stop the cloth from wearing more. I actually think the leather/suede seats suit the mr2 more than the cloth do. They are in pretty good condition with only a small amount of damage on the driver's bolster which I will hopefully be able to repair. I used an old trick of putting black paint and thinners on a rag to fill the white cracks and then used plenty of leather protectant to make the seats supple again. Stoked with how they turned out.

I have also reinstalled my water meth system which now has everything but the tank sitting behind the driver's seat in the storage cubby. The tank sits on the lid on top. Will have some photos soon to share but will mean that trunk space is unaffected and I never use the space behind the seats anyway. I have a Gizzmo EBC coming and will order a flow failsafe switch for the water meth so I can run slightly higher boost while injecting meth and if the system fails the EBC can switch back the boost to wastegate pressure.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Installed my EBC yesterday. You set up the boost level you want based on solenoid duty and can change how fast/hard boost comes on using gain. There are anti-spike features, boost cut and 6 memories. The unit operates in closed loop mode unless it is learning the boost. I can't believe how different the car feels with the EBC installed. Due to the fact that it automatically adjusts duty to keep at target boost, it hits 14.5 psi (my boost level for now) and makes the car pull hard until redline. It feels like I now have a bit more top end as the boost doesn't fall off like it used to. All you do to install solenoid is attach it between the wastegate and boost pressure line. You can cap off the line running to TVSV or unplug the TVSV so it is inoperable and is the same as capping lines.

Would recommend a system like this, especially for having very stable and responsive boost. NB this is on a CT20, not 26 so a 26 might not have as good results.

[Benckj]

Yes an EBC is much more reactive to boost response and obtaining set points. It also has alarm points, cabin display and control. All options which go beyond the simple MBC. Glad your finding out how to use these features.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Yes an EBC is much more reactive to boost response and obtaining set points. It also has alarm points, cabin display and control. All options which go beyond the simple MBC. Glad your finding out how to use these features.

Agreed big time with this. Didn't realise how much of a difference it could make. FIne tuning it now but it seems pretty happy at what it's set. Only thing left to test on is the level of boost when the controller kicks on. I set it at 7psi but i'm now thinking that lower would be better..

[Benckj]

The lower level isn't very important. Mine has a mode where controller can be turned off so only wastegate pressure can be achieved. Useful for testing system or when leaving at Mechanics for WOF.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Got some bits for the shifter including new spring, and bushes for the GT-S. Since I bought the car it's always had pretty noticeable play in in the shifter. Replacing the bushings by the gearbox helped a bit, but I think a lot of the issue is with the springs and bushes on the selector itself. Let's hope so! Not a bad price of Amayama and I saved around $80 compared to if I went to Toyota. They wanted $40 for the shifter cup alone.

[4CylinderSpecial]

I am looking at getting some new wheels soon. Staying at 17", but likely going for something like some Work Equip Anhelos. Was thinking of going for Work Meister S1r, but I don't think it'll look as good on the car compared to a 3pc Work wheel. The Anhelos I'm looking at are 8 inch +36 in the front and 9 inch +26 in the rear. They have also been painted white so will be good fun splitting the wheel apart, polishing the lips back and repainting the faces/barrels. I will probably get the faces and barrels powdercoated.

[GDII]

Nice! That +26 in the rear will need a 235/40R17 and some mad camber and guard rolling. Those 245s will just be rub city!

These will look really nice, what colour would you go for?

[4CylinderSpecial]

Nice! That +26 in the rear will need a 235/40R17 and some mad camber and guard rolling. Those 245s will just be rub city!

These will look really nice, what colour would you go for?

Damn I thought the +26 would rub like mad! Going to camber and probably roll the guard a bit. If it does definitely still rub after that I'll go to a 235. End goal is potentially getting some coilovers in the long term so the extra stiffness will help with this.

I'll go for a polished lip with a Silver colour to match, similar to how the wheels came factory (picture below). I think this scheme will look best on a dark coloured car. Was considering black face but I think that suits a red car much more

cache_photos_4921Z0f9c403baf_listing_1834_2_large.jpg (113.71 KiB) Viewed 2790 times

[GDII]

Nice! That +26 in the rear will need a 235/40R17 and some mad camber and guard rolling. Those 245s will just be rub city!

These will look really nice, what colour would you go for?

Damn I thought the +26 would rub like mad! Going to camber and probably roll the guard a bit. If it does definitely still rub after that I'll go to a 235. End goal is potentially getting some coilovers in the long term so the extra stiffness will help with this.

I'll go for a polished lip with a Silver colour to match, similar to how the wheels came factory (picture below). I think this scheme will look best on a dark coloured car. Was considering black face but I think that suits a red car much more
cache_photos_4921Z0f9c403baf_listing_1834_2_large.jpg

Comparing my +29 and the 245s we both run, I run 2.5° on one side and it rubs but I think it is due to the wheel sitting back in the arch a bit due to swapping bushes. It only rubs on the plastic trim between the bumper and body. I run 1.5° on the other side and no rub. The lip is bent up but not fully rolled over. I think a 235 would probably help the best as it's only 3mm different to my setup. I'd prefer less camber for mine but if I drop that I'll have issues. I suspect my camber is out due to the subframe being offset slightly. I'd want even left to right but I lack adjustment.

[Benckj]

Very good, hope you can post up some before & after pics soon.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Comparing my +29 and the 245s we both run, I run 2.5° on one side and it rubs but I think it is due to the wheel sitting back in the arch a bit due to swapping bushes. It only rubs on the plastic trim between the bumper and body. I run 1.5° on the other side and no rub. The lip is bent up but not fully rolled over. I think a 235 would probably help the best as it's only 3mm different to my setup. I'd prefer less camber for mine but if I drop that I'll have issues. I suspect my camber is out due to the subframe being offset slightly. I'd want even left to right but I lack adjustment.

Okay thanks for the heads up on that one. It'll be interesting because I've changed all my bushings but not dropped subframe. I'm probably going to camber front and back a bit, but if a wheel does sit further back then there's not much I can do. Not looking to roll the fender fully back either, just bend the lip up a bit similar to you. We will see!!

Very good, hope you can post up some before & after pics soon.

I'll do my best to document the process, it'll be my first 3-piece wheel so will do some research on sealing techniques too. By the way does using paint stripper dull Aluminium in a way that will make polishing a pain?