Mickeyduck's machines

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby Redmist » Thu Apr 18, 2019 1:20 pm

Perforated stainless steel roasting pan from TM?
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby 85AW20v » Fri Apr 19, 2019 6:34 pm

mickeyduck wrote:....
:arrow: On another note does anyone know where I can score a 1 metre square bit of perforated aluminium or stainless sheet about 1mm thick, with holes between 2 and 3mm diameter and an open area of better than 30% :?:

Want to make a ventilated heat-shield for the SW's engine lid but man it's hard to find a bit of this stuff. Seems like they only make it on a custom basis and usually just big runs for buildings and stuff. ....

Instead of shielding the engine lid, why not shield the source of the heat? That could be easier than finding what you need for the engine lid. Would a turbo sock/cover do the job?

Have a look at this site too. https://www.easysteel.co.nz/products/manufactured-product
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby mickeyduck » Fri Apr 19, 2019 7:06 pm

Redmist wrote:Perforated stainless steel roasting pan from TM?


Ha ha already looked at that John but they're a little small. :lol:

Haven't tried those Aussies yet Cameron but may have to yet mate.

Shielding the source of the heat, Simon... Yeah the turbo and the stainless headers are the big problem. Don't want to wrap it though or it's likely to crack at the welds without me even knowing about it. Hence I'd like a heat shield between that stuff and the fibreglass lid, and it needs to also let as much hot air escape as possible. A 40% perforated shiny sheet would allow enough hot air out through the vents while keeping a large part of the heat off the lid, is my hope.

Not sure I'll follow Malcolm's advice. Don't think my drilling skills would be quite as accurate as a turret press. Mind you, I might be able to create something of an art-work, a pointillism effect, perhaps? Draw the Swansong logo in dots on the inside of the engine lid... I did that on the ceiling of my XA Flacon when I was 18. The cops loved it when they pulled me over one night near the airport. Prince Charles and Lady Di were flying out but we didn't know that. We were just going to watch the planes take off from the end of the runway. I won't elaborate but it was a damned funny evening. :lol:

Have a great Easter break everyone! :D
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby 85AW20v » Sat Apr 20, 2019 10:11 pm

Instead of wrapping it, you could make up a sheet metal shield to go over the turbo and down the headers. It's the air gap between the heat source and the inside of the shield that stops the heat transfer. Same principle is used on exhausts to stop the heat transfer off the exhaust pipe and into the car floor. Mount it off your manifold bolts and a stand-off bracket or two welded to the extractors. You'll still be able to see/hear any exhaust leak. You could make it out of stainless or mild steel sheet - aluminium wouldn't be durable enough.
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby 85AW20v » Sat Apr 20, 2019 10:22 pm

85AW20v wrote:Instead of wrapping it, you could make up a sheet metal shield to go over the turbo and down the headers. It's the air gap between the heat source and the inside of the shield that stops the heat transfer. Same principle is used on exhausts to stop the heat transfer off the exhaust pipe and into the car floor. Mount it off your manifold bolts and a stand-off bracket or two welded to the extractors. You'll still be able to see/hear any exhaust leak. You could make it out of stainless or mild steel sheet - aluminium wouldn't be durable enough.

I've just been back though some of your photos and the shield could be mounted on the threaded holes where that exhaust rose joint is attached to the head. There's also a couple of I think 10mm bolts heads on your dump pipe(?) that the bottom of the shield could be attached too. There isn't any stress/strain on the shield so that should work OK.

Woops - meant to edit not quote the original post. :oops: :P :roll:
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby mickeyduck » Mon Apr 22, 2019 10:48 am

Thanks Simon. That idea does make sense.

I guess what I'm hoping to do is effectively just that, but fit the heat shield to the fibreglass lid, stood off it by way of the mounting bolts.

I'd also like to make it such that when the lid is up it acts as a bit of a mirror offering a teaser reflection of the engine so at shows it helps draw attention. Whereas at the moment the inside of the lid is pig ugly (seeing as I removed the original two fans and their surrounding red plate).

Might just have to save up and get the thing I want made. I can picture in my head exactly how I'd like it to be.

On the plus side the SW is running real well. Had a lot of fun driving to Hamilton and back yesterday via nice twisty back roads. Nothing broke or fell off and it goes like a cut cat. My only problem is those 18 inch rims mean it rides higher than I'd like and as I'm used to throwing a lowered AW through the corners, the SW feels like it has a big fat butt. Judging by the lack of tyre squeal it's nowhere near the limits but I'm not yet fully happy with it. Smaller rims and lower suspension would suit me better. One day perhaps. Either that or I'll have to resurrect the Kei Office coil-overs / morph their springs onto the BC Golds and settle for the rock solid ride with zero suspension travel like it was before. But that tends to break stuff. Which I could only fix by way of smaller rims and higher profile tyres...

Should just drop the engine in the AW. Now that would be truly nuts. Especially on 195's. :shock: :twisted: :lol:
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby mknz » Mon Apr 22, 2019 12:36 pm

mickeyduck wrote:I'd also like to make it such that when the lid is up it acts as a bit of a mirror offering a teaser reflection of the engine so at shows it helps draw attention. Whereas at the moment the inside of the lid is pig ugly (seeing as I removed the original two fans and their surrounding red plate).

Chrome paint it? Then with the fans you can evacuate air when you come to a stop. Could also just have a show piece to swap in and out. Just some different ideas.

mickeyduck wrote:On the plus side the SW is running real well. Had a lot of fun driving to Hamilton and back yesterday via nice twisty back roads. Nothing broke or fell off and it goes like a cut cat. My only problem is those 18 inch rims mean it rides higher than I'd like and as I'm used to throwing a lowered AW through the corners, the SW feels like it has a big fat butt. Judging by the lack of tyre squeal it's nowhere near the limits but I'm not yet fully happy with it. Smaller rims and lower suspension would suit me better. One day perhaps. Either that or I'll have to resurrect the Kei Office coil-overs / morph their springs onto the BC Golds and settle for the rock solid ride with zero suspension travel like it was before. But that tends to break stuff. Which I could only fix by way of smaller rims and higher profile tyres...

A few things here and tbh I can't remember everything in your thread. Does your alignment have too much toe-in? IIRC the gen 2 rear suspension gives more toe in when extending (braking). I can't remember your current tyre width but you might not get as wide on 17s and still have S001s. BC will do custom spring rates IIRC, so you can step it up without breaking things. Are those current wheels heavy? Going to 17s could be an excuse to get lighter wheels.

mickeyduck wrote:Should just drop the engine in the AW. Now that would be truly nuts. Especially on 195's. :shock: :twisted: :lol:


:lol: you already spin your SC tyres. Also I don't think you'll want to swap because I swear the engine bay is tighter and you'll have a much heavier rear end.

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby mickeyduck » Mon Apr 22, 2019 1:39 pm

Bridgestone Potenza S001 are being replaced by S007 and they will start at 18 inch.
Even the Adrenaline R003 are being offered in less widths for 17 inch.
Thank goodness for the Toyo T1R.

Thoughts for the SW:

Rear tyres:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -255-40r17

Front tyres:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -235-40r17

That would allow me to lower the rear a little and it'd give a softer ride with about 10mm higher sidewall all around.

I'm actually thinking it might be possible to fit the Kei Office springs to the BC Gold coil-overs so I can drop the car right back down.
Then one day flick off those lovely blingy 3 piece Rays Engineering Payton Place 18" rims and fit 17" with T1R and higher sidewall.
If I did so I'd end up with the same super-low and super-flat ride the car had originally, but the higher sidewalls would soak up more of the bumps.

AW tyres on 15" rims:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -215-45r15

All do-able thanks to Toyo and their brilliant old T1R:
https://www.yhiautomotive.co.nz/View-A- ... R?Id=12826

Looks like the AW would be able to run those 215's on my 15 x 7" rims too:
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/info ... _Guide.pdf

Imagine the cornering ability and stopping power of an AW on 215 T1R's. Woohoo!

Toyo T1R.png
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100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby *84vvt » Wed May 01, 2019 5:20 pm

mickeyduck wrote:
*84vvt wrote:I know were there is some @ work but its in a Clinitron bed
I might upset people if I was to borrow it :lol:


So you're like one of those Men In Black, right? Always wondered what you did for a crust.

Personally, I'd be more concerned about upsetting the Clinitron. It might like its bed...

Clinitron.png


Looks like the "Clinitron." has left its lair I can acquire the perforated sheet in its bed might be a week or 2, sadly may not be a full 1m in width . :-(
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby mickeyduck » Wed May 01, 2019 11:57 pm

Wow that's pretty cool, thanks Colin. 8)
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100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby mickeyduck » Mon May 13, 2019 11:25 pm

Now here's an idea for an AW wing.

Reflect the angles. Slope backwards to mirror the slope of the C-pillar, and slope outwards to mirror the slope of the side windows as seen from behind the car.

Pearson_Chrono.png
Pearson_Chrono.png (158.85 KiB) Viewed 651 times


http://pearsonbikes.com/automobiles.php

Might have to mock something up some time and see how the same idea actually would look on an AW.

I reckon a bolt-on aluminium one might be a go. I know just the guy to make it too...
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
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100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby Benckj » Tue May 14, 2019 1:52 pm

Sort of looks like a Sw20 rev 5 wing but thinner and more angular.
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby Swampy » Mon May 27, 2019 9:52 pm

Will the s001 still be available in smaller sizes for a few more months/years or are stocks completely 0.00?
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby mickeyduck » Tue May 28, 2019 10:51 pm

Swampy wrote:Will the s001 still be available in smaller sizes for a few more months/years or are stocks completely 0.00?


Ask Bridgestone, James. But if you really get stuck you might have to go to Toyo T1R as they still come in a range of sizes. Just have to order them months in advance and whatever you do, do NOT mix them with the Potenzas. Must have Potenzas all round, or Toyos. Unless you like spinning out...
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100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Postby mickeyduck » Mon Jun 03, 2019 10:24 pm

Looking forward to the track day at Manfield in November.

Went for a wee blat in the SW today, on mostly damp roads. Experienced a bit of the SW "understeer / oversteer" thing...

Taking another look at the suspension setup: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=10901&start=1600

Doing a bit of maths, looking at the camber, OEM specs and the max allowed LVVTA specs, versus how the Geddes brothers have their 2k Cup car set up (which gets around the track very nicely indeed for a wee n.a.) I did a bit of sussing out, again...

https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html

https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/num ... grees.html

The Geddes brothers 2k Cup car runs:

thelinuxwarrior wrote:Alignment we use on our race car (mind you its with the early gen subframe)
Front:
Camber: ~2.25
Toe per wheel: -1.6mm
Caster: 3.5degress
Rear:
Camber: ~2.5
Toe per wheel: 3.1mm


OEM spec camber is:

Front: 55' + 30' = 85' = 1 degree 25' = 1.42 degrees max
Rear: 1 deg 20' + 30' = 1 deg 50' = 1.83 degrees max

#

Max for LVVTA cert: 0.5 degrees over max OEM:

Front: 1.42 + 0.5 = 1.92 degrees
Rear: 1.83 + 0.5 = 2.33 degrees

#

Currently:

11mm front = 1.24 degrees
17mm rear = 1.90 degrees

#

Geddes' setup would be:

20mm front = 2.25 degrees
22.5mm rear = 2.50 degrees

#

Measured at 510mm height, my munty hack method (see earlier post mentioned above)...

10mm gap = 1.12 degrees camber

11mm gap = 1.24 degrees

12mm gap = 1.35 degrees

13mm gap = 1.46 degrees

14mm gap = 1.57 degrees

15mm gap = 1.70 degrees

16mm gap = 1.80 degrees

17mm gap = 1.90 degrees <--- front legal max

18mm gap = 2.02 degrees

19mm gap = 2.14 degrees

20mm gap = 2.25 degrees <--- rear legal max

21mm gap = 2.36 degrees

22mm gap = 2.47 degrees

#

Max within certifiable limits:

Front: 17mm gap = 1.90 degrees
Rear: 20mm gap = 2.25 degrees

Toe-in, I reckon maybe:

Front: 1mm each side
Rear: 2.5mm each side

Which is about what I'm running, but I have a little less toe-in on the front at the moment, about 0.5mm each side.

#

Anyway I think I might increase the camber a little more, and set it up as best I can like that. And see how it feels.

And I'd still like to get it lower especially on the rear, but I'd either need to fit stiffer springs again or run the shocks really hard, which can make it difficult to put the power down on a bumpy road. Too soft is ugly but so is too hard...

On another note, the WOF guy at NST commented on the sheet that my SW cert plate doesn't match the rego listed on it.

Happy to say LVVTA states it doesn't matter, the VIN is what matters, as they understand that personalised plates don't always get sold with the vehicle (as was the case with my SW).

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/knowledge_base.html#other

Screen Shot 2019-06-03 at 3.15.27 pm.png
Screen Shot 2019-06-03 at 3.15.27 pm.png (45.15 KiB) Viewed 556 times


Really pleased with how the SW is running now. Need to score those wee nuts for the internals of the waste-gate though as it's started rattling again at idle.
But the beast is running SWeet. 8)



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#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
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Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
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Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017 8)
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted: