Mickeyduck's machines
Moderator: Moderators
Forum rules
This section of the forum is a great resource if you're looking for ideas, and it's a cool way of obtaining technical information that may otherwise not have been posted. (Members can use the Search functionality at top right of the forum to speed up finding things) Please respect others' contributions and don't diss anyone - keep comments helpful, factual, positive and polite. One thread per vehicle or owner please - don't start lots of threads about just one car. And if you need assistance with your car and want to host a spanner day, please use the appropriate section of the forum: http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=35 Thank you.
This section of the forum is a great resource if you're looking for ideas, and it's a cool way of obtaining technical information that may otherwise not have been posted. (Members can use the Search functionality at top right of the forum to speed up finding things) Please respect others' contributions and don't diss anyone - keep comments helpful, factual, positive and polite. One thread per vehicle or owner please - don't start lots of threads about just one car. And if you need assistance with your car and want to host a spanner day, please use the appropriate section of the forum: http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=35 Thank you.
- Redmist
- Club Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 249
- Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2011 11:12 pm
- Stomping Ground: Bay Of Plenty
- Prime Mover: AW11
- First name: John
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Perforated stainless steel roasting pan from TM?
Aw11 86 preface lift ( sold)
Aw11 86 face lift (sold)
GTO (sold)
Celica 97 gt4 (sold)
Lexus sc430
Aw11 86 face lift (sold)
GTO (sold)
Celica 97 gt4 (sold)
Lexus sc430
- 85AW20v
- Club Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 888
- Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 10:25 pm
- Stomping Ground: Bay Of Plenty
- Prime Mover: AW11
- First name: Simon
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Instead of shielding the engine lid, why not shield the source of the heat? That could be easier than finding what you need for the engine lid. Would a turbo sock/cover do the job?mickeyduck wrote:....
On another note does anyone know where I can score a 1 metre square bit of perforated aluminium or stainless sheet about 1mm thick, with holes between 2 and 3mm diameter and an open area of better than 30%
Want to make a ventilated heat-shield for the SW's engine lid but man it's hard to find a bit of this stuff. Seems like they only make it on a custom basis and usually just big runs for buildings and stuff. ....
Have a look at this site too. https://www.easysteel.co.nz/products/ma ... ed-product
See ya
Simon
AW11 Racecar - 860kg
Simon
AW11 Racecar - 860kg
- mickeyduck
- Life Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 6144
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:30 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Charlie
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Ha ha already looked at that John but they're a little small.Redmist wrote:Perforated stainless steel roasting pan from TM?
Haven't tried those Aussies yet Cameron but may have to yet mate.
Shielding the source of the heat, Simon... Yeah the turbo and the stainless headers are the big problem. Don't want to wrap it though or it's likely to crack at the welds without me even knowing about it. Hence I'd like a heat shield between that stuff and the fibreglass lid, and it needs to also let as much hot air escape as possible. A 40% perforated shiny sheet would allow enough hot air out through the vents while keeping a large part of the heat off the lid, is my hope.
Not sure I'll follow Malcolm's advice. Don't think my drilling skills would be quite as accurate as a turret press. Mind you, I might be able to create something of an art-work, a pointillism effect, perhaps? Draw the Swansong logo in dots on the inside of the engine lid... I did that on the ceiling of my XA Flacon when I was 18. The cops loved it when they pulled me over one night near the airport. Prince Charles and Lady Di were flying out but we didn't know that. We were just going to watch the planes take off from the end of the runway. I won't elaborate but it was a damned funny evening.
Have a great Easter break everyone!
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
- 85AW20v
- Club Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 888
- Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 10:25 pm
- Stomping Ground: Bay Of Plenty
- Prime Mover: AW11
- First name: Simon
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Instead of wrapping it, you could make up a sheet metal shield to go over the turbo and down the headers. It's the air gap between the heat source and the inside of the shield that stops the heat transfer. Same principle is used on exhausts to stop the heat transfer off the exhaust pipe and into the car floor. Mount it off your manifold bolts and a stand-off bracket or two welded to the extractors. You'll still be able to see/hear any exhaust leak. You could make it out of stainless or mild steel sheet - aluminium wouldn't be durable enough.
See ya
Simon
AW11 Racecar - 860kg
Simon
AW11 Racecar - 860kg
- 85AW20v
- Club Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 888
- Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 10:25 pm
- Stomping Ground: Bay Of Plenty
- Prime Mover: AW11
- First name: Simon
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
I've just been back though some of your photos and the shield could be mounted on the threaded holes where that exhaust rose joint is attached to the head. There's also a couple of I think 10mm bolts heads on your dump pipe(?) that the bottom of the shield could be attached too. There isn't any stress/strain on the shield so that should work OK.85AW20v wrote:Instead of wrapping it, you could make up a sheet metal shield to go over the turbo and down the headers. It's the air gap between the heat source and the inside of the shield that stops the heat transfer. Same principle is used on exhausts to stop the heat transfer off the exhaust pipe and into the car floor. Mount it off your manifold bolts and a stand-off bracket or two welded to the extractors. You'll still be able to see/hear any exhaust leak. You could make it out of stainless or mild steel sheet - aluminium wouldn't be durable enough.
Woops - meant to edit not quote the original post.
See ya
Simon
AW11 Racecar - 860kg
Simon
AW11 Racecar - 860kg
- mickeyduck
- Life Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 6144
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:30 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Charlie
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Thanks Simon. That idea does make sense.
I guess what I'm hoping to do is effectively just that, but fit the heat shield to the fibreglass lid, stood off it by way of the mounting bolts.
I'd also like to make it such that when the lid is up it acts as a bit of a mirror offering a teaser reflection of the engine so at shows it helps draw attention. Whereas at the moment the inside of the lid is pig ugly (seeing as I removed the original two fans and their surrounding red plate).
Might just have to save up and get the thing I want made. I can picture in my head exactly how I'd like it to be.
On the plus side the SW is running real well. Had a lot of fun driving to Hamilton and back yesterday via nice twisty back roads. Nothing broke or fell off and it goes like a cut cat. My only problem is those 18 inch rims mean it rides higher than I'd like and as I'm used to throwing a lowered AW through the corners, the SW feels like it has a big fat butt. Judging by the lack of tyre squeal it's nowhere near the limits but I'm not yet fully happy with it. Smaller rims and lower suspension would suit me better. One day perhaps. Either that or I'll have to resurrect the Kei Office coil-overs / morph their springs onto the BC Golds and settle for the rock solid ride with zero suspension travel like it was before. But that tends to break stuff. Which I could only fix by way of smaller rims and higher profile tyres...
Should just drop the engine in the AW. Now that would be truly nuts. Especially on 195's.
I guess what I'm hoping to do is effectively just that, but fit the heat shield to the fibreglass lid, stood off it by way of the mounting bolts.
I'd also like to make it such that when the lid is up it acts as a bit of a mirror offering a teaser reflection of the engine so at shows it helps draw attention. Whereas at the moment the inside of the lid is pig ugly (seeing as I removed the original two fans and their surrounding red plate).
Might just have to save up and get the thing I want made. I can picture in my head exactly how I'd like it to be.
On the plus side the SW is running real well. Had a lot of fun driving to Hamilton and back yesterday via nice twisty back roads. Nothing broke or fell off and it goes like a cut cat. My only problem is those 18 inch rims mean it rides higher than I'd like and as I'm used to throwing a lowered AW through the corners, the SW feels like it has a big fat butt. Judging by the lack of tyre squeal it's nowhere near the limits but I'm not yet fully happy with it. Smaller rims and lower suspension would suit me better. One day perhaps. Either that or I'll have to resurrect the Kei Office coil-overs / morph their springs onto the BC Golds and settle for the rock solid ride with zero suspension travel like it was before. But that tends to break stuff. Which I could only fix by way of smaller rims and higher profile tyres...
Should just drop the engine in the AW. Now that would be truly nuts. Especially on 195's.
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
-
- Site Admin - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 1182
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:17 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Michael
- Contact:
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Chrome paint it? Then with the fans you can evacuate air when you come to a stop. Could also just have a show piece to swap in and out. Just some different ideas.mickeyduck wrote:I'd also like to make it such that when the lid is up it acts as a bit of a mirror offering a teaser reflection of the engine so at shows it helps draw attention. Whereas at the moment the inside of the lid is pig ugly (seeing as I removed the original two fans and their surrounding red plate).
A few things here and tbh I can't remember everything in your thread. Does your alignment have too much toe-in? IIRC the gen 2 rear suspension gives more toe in when extending (braking). I can't remember your current tyre width but you might not get as wide on 17s and still have S001s. BC will do custom spring rates IIRC, so you can step it up without breaking things. Are those current wheels heavy? Going to 17s could be an excuse to get lighter wheels.mickeyduck wrote:On the plus side the SW is running real well. Had a lot of fun driving to Hamilton and back yesterday via nice twisty back roads. Nothing broke or fell off and it goes like a cut cat. My only problem is those 18 inch rims mean it rides higher than I'd like and as I'm used to throwing a lowered AW through the corners, the SW feels like it has a big fat butt. Judging by the lack of tyre squeal it's nowhere near the limits but I'm not yet fully happy with it. Smaller rims and lower suspension would suit me better. One day perhaps. Either that or I'll have to resurrect the Kei Office coil-overs / morph their springs onto the BC Golds and settle for the rock solid ride with zero suspension travel like it was before. But that tends to break stuff. Which I could only fix by way of smaller rims and higher profile tyres...
you already spin your SC tyres. Also I don't think you'll want to swap because I swear the engine bay is tighter and you'll have a much heavier rear end.mickeyduck wrote:Should just drop the engine in the AW. Now that would be truly nuts. Especially on 195's.
- mickeyduck
- Life Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 6144
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:30 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Charlie
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Bridgestone Potenza S001 are being replaced by S007 and they will start at 18 inch.
Even the Adrenaline R003 are being offered in less widths for 17 inch.
Thank goodness for the Toyo T1R.
Thoughts for the SW:
Rear tyres:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -255-40r17
Front tyres:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -235-40r17
That would allow me to lower the rear a little and it'd give a softer ride with about 10mm higher sidewall all around.
I'm actually thinking it might be possible to fit the Kei Office springs to the BC Gold coil-overs so I can drop the car right back down.
Then one day flick off those lovely blingy 3 piece Rays Engineering Payton Place 18" rims and fit 17" with T1R and higher sidewall.
If I did so I'd end up with the same super-low and super-flat ride the car had originally, but the higher sidewalls would soak up more of the bumps.
AW tyres on 15" rims:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -215-45r15
All do-able thanks to Toyo and their brilliant old T1R:
https://www.yhiautomotive.co.nz/View-A- ... R?Id=12826
Looks like the AW would be able to run those 215's on my 15 x 7" rims too:
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/info ... _Guide.pdf
Imagine the cornering ability and stopping power of an AW on 215 T1R's. Woohoo!
Even the Adrenaline R003 are being offered in less widths for 17 inch.
Thank goodness for the Toyo T1R.
Thoughts for the SW:
Rear tyres:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -255-40r17
Front tyres:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -235-40r17
That would allow me to lower the rear a little and it'd give a softer ride with about 10mm higher sidewall all around.
I'm actually thinking it might be possible to fit the Kei Office springs to the BC Gold coil-overs so I can drop the car right back down.
Then one day flick off those lovely blingy 3 piece Rays Engineering Payton Place 18" rims and fit 17" with T1R and higher sidewall.
If I did so I'd end up with the same super-low and super-flat ride the car had originally, but the higher sidewalls would soak up more of the bumps.
AW tyres on 15" rims:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?ti ... -215-45r15
All do-able thanks to Toyo and their brilliant old T1R:
https://www.yhiautomotive.co.nz/View-A- ... R?Id=12826
Looks like the AW would be able to run those 215's on my 15 x 7" rims too:
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/info ... _Guide.pdf
Imagine the cornering ability and stopping power of an AW on 215 T1R's. Woohoo!
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
- *84vvt
- Life Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2004 11:44 am
- Stomping Ground: Wellington
- Prime Mover: AW11
- First name: Colin
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Looks like the "Clinitron." has left its lair I can acquire the perforated sheet in its bed might be a week or 2, sadly may not be a full 1m in width .mickeyduck wrote:So you're like one of those Men In Black, right? Always wondered what you did for a crust.*84vvt wrote:I know were there is some @ work but its in a Clinitron bed
I might upset people if I was to borrow it
Personally, I'd be more concerned about upsetting the Clinitron. It might like its bed...
Boosted cars are like hot women.
A little edgy, every guy wants one,
some guys can't handle them,
and if you throw a little alcohol in them they'll rock your world.
A little edgy, every guy wants one,
some guys can't handle them,
and if you throw a little alcohol in them they'll rock your world.
- mickeyduck
- Life Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 6144
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:30 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Charlie
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Wow that's pretty cool, thanks Colin.
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
- mickeyduck
- Life Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 6144
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:30 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Charlie
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Now here's an idea for an AW wing.
Reflect the angles. Slope backwards to mirror the slope of the C-pillar, and slope outwards to mirror the slope of the side windows as seen from behind the car.
http://pearsonbikes.com/automobiles.php
Might have to mock something up some time and see how the same idea actually would look on an AW.
I reckon a bolt-on aluminium one might be a go. I know just the guy to make it too...
Reflect the angles. Slope backwards to mirror the slope of the C-pillar, and slope outwards to mirror the slope of the side windows as seen from behind the car.
http://pearsonbikes.com/automobiles.php
Might have to mock something up some time and see how the same idea actually would look on an AW.
I reckon a bolt-on aluminium one might be a go. I know just the guy to make it too...
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
- Benckj
- Forum Moderator - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 7149
- Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:44 pm
- Stomping Ground: Otago
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Jim
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Sort of looks like a Sw20 rev 5 wing but thinner and more angular.
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
- Swampy
- Club Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 703
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2015 10:37 am
- Stomping Ground: Waikato
- Prime Mover: SW20
- First name: James
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Will the s001 still be available in smaller sizes for a few more months/years or are stocks completely 0.00?
In the shed: 91 MR2 G-Limited, 95 Subaru Impreza WRX
In the front of the shed: 95 Corolla
In the driveway: 00 Subaru Legacy Lancaster
In the rear view: 87 Honda Prelude, 94 Nissan Serena, 04 Swift
~ 4 Runs ~
In the front of the shed: 95 Corolla
In the driveway: 00 Subaru Legacy Lancaster
In the rear view: 87 Honda Prelude, 94 Nissan Serena, 04 Swift
~ 4 Runs ~
- mickeyduck
- Life Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 6144
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:30 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Charlie
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Ask Bridgestone, James. But if you really get stuck you might have to go to Toyo T1R as they still come in a range of sizes. Just have to order them months in advance and whatever you do, do NOT mix them with the Potenzas. Must have Potenzas all round, or Toyos. Unless you like spinning out...Swampy wrote:Will the s001 still be available in smaller sizes for a few more months/years or are stocks completely 0.00?
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
- mickeyduck
- Life Member - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 6144
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:30 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Charlie
Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Looking forward to the track day at Manfield in November.
Went for a wee blat in the SW today, on mostly damp roads. Experienced a bit of the SW "understeer / oversteer" thing...
Taking another look at the suspension setup: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=10901&start=1600
Doing a bit of maths, looking at the camber, OEM specs and the max allowed LVVTA specs, versus how the Geddes brothers have their 2k Cup car set up (which gets around the track very nicely indeed for a wee n.a.) I did a bit of sussing out, again...
https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html
https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/num ... grees.html
The Geddes brothers 2k Cup car runs:
Front: 55' + 30' = 85' = 1 degree 25' = 1.42 degrees max
Rear: 1 deg 20' + 30' = 1 deg 50' = 1.83 degrees max
#
Max for LVVTA cert: 0.5 degrees over max OEM:
Front: 1.42 + 0.5 = 1.92 degrees
Rear: 1.83 + 0.5 = 2.33 degrees
#
Currently:
11mm front = 1.24 degrees
17mm rear = 1.90 degrees
#
Geddes' setup would be:
20mm front = 2.25 degrees
22.5mm rear = 2.50 degrees
#
Measured at 510mm height, my munty hack method (see earlier post mentioned above)...
10mm gap = 1.12 degrees camber
11mm gap = 1.24 degrees
12mm gap = 1.35 degrees
13mm gap = 1.46 degrees
14mm gap = 1.57 degrees
15mm gap = 1.70 degrees
16mm gap = 1.80 degrees
17mm gap = 1.90 degrees <--- front legal max
18mm gap = 2.02 degrees
19mm gap = 2.14 degrees
20mm gap = 2.25 degrees <--- rear legal max
21mm gap = 2.36 degrees
22mm gap = 2.47 degrees
#
Max within certifiable limits:
Front: 17mm gap = 1.90 degrees
Rear: 20mm gap = 2.25 degrees
Toe-in, I reckon maybe:
Front: 1mm each side
Rear: 2.5mm each side
Which is about what I'm running, but I have a little less toe-in on the front at the moment, about 0.5mm each side.
#
Anyway I think I might increase the camber a little more, and set it up as best I can like that. And see how it feels.
And I'd still like to get it lower especially on the rear, but I'd either need to fit stiffer springs again or run the shocks really hard, which can make it difficult to put the power down on a bumpy road. Too soft is ugly but so is too hard...
On another note, the WOF guy at NST commented on the sheet that my SW cert plate doesn't match the rego listed on it.
Happy to say LVVTA states it doesn't matter, the VIN is what matters, as they understand that personalised plates don't always get sold with the vehicle (as was the case with my SW).
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/knowledge_base.html#other
Really pleased with how the SW is running now. Need to score those wee nuts for the internals of the waste-gate though as it's started rattling again at idle.
But the beast is running SWeet.
https://youtu.be/3ORrThC7GoE
Went for a wee blat in the SW today, on mostly damp roads. Experienced a bit of the SW "understeer / oversteer" thing...
Taking another look at the suspension setup: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=10901&start=1600
Doing a bit of maths, looking at the camber, OEM specs and the max allowed LVVTA specs, versus how the Geddes brothers have their 2k Cup car set up (which gets around the track very nicely indeed for a wee n.a.) I did a bit of sussing out, again...
https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html
https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/num ... grees.html
The Geddes brothers 2k Cup car runs:
OEM spec camber is:thelinuxwarrior wrote:Alignment we use on our race car (mind you its with the early gen subframe)
Front:
Camber: ~2.25
Toe per wheel: -1.6mm
Caster: 3.5degress
Rear:
Camber: ~2.5
Toe per wheel: 3.1mm
Front: 55' + 30' = 85' = 1 degree 25' = 1.42 degrees max
Rear: 1 deg 20' + 30' = 1 deg 50' = 1.83 degrees max
#
Max for LVVTA cert: 0.5 degrees over max OEM:
Front: 1.42 + 0.5 = 1.92 degrees
Rear: 1.83 + 0.5 = 2.33 degrees
#
Currently:
11mm front = 1.24 degrees
17mm rear = 1.90 degrees
#
Geddes' setup would be:
20mm front = 2.25 degrees
22.5mm rear = 2.50 degrees
#
Measured at 510mm height, my munty hack method (see earlier post mentioned above)...
10mm gap = 1.12 degrees camber
11mm gap = 1.24 degrees
12mm gap = 1.35 degrees
13mm gap = 1.46 degrees
14mm gap = 1.57 degrees
15mm gap = 1.70 degrees
16mm gap = 1.80 degrees
17mm gap = 1.90 degrees <--- front legal max
18mm gap = 2.02 degrees
19mm gap = 2.14 degrees
20mm gap = 2.25 degrees <--- rear legal max
21mm gap = 2.36 degrees
22mm gap = 2.47 degrees
#
Max within certifiable limits:
Front: 17mm gap = 1.90 degrees
Rear: 20mm gap = 2.25 degrees
Toe-in, I reckon maybe:
Front: 1mm each side
Rear: 2.5mm each side
Which is about what I'm running, but I have a little less toe-in on the front at the moment, about 0.5mm each side.
#
Anyway I think I might increase the camber a little more, and set it up as best I can like that. And see how it feels.
And I'd still like to get it lower especially on the rear, but I'd either need to fit stiffer springs again or run the shocks really hard, which can make it difficult to put the power down on a bumpy road. Too soft is ugly but so is too hard...
On another note, the WOF guy at NST commented on the sheet that my SW cert plate doesn't match the rego listed on it.
Happy to say LVVTA states it doesn't matter, the VIN is what matters, as they understand that personalised plates don't always get sold with the vehicle (as was the case with my SW).
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/knowledge_base.html#other
Really pleased with how the SW is running now. Need to score those wee nuts for the internals of the waste-gate though as it's started rattling again at idle.
But the beast is running SWeet.
https://youtu.be/3ORrThC7GoE
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.