mknz manages to make everything he owns leak

[Mr-Paulio]

This is where it would normally be....

Air con

[MR2GUY]

I will try to get a photo over the weekend, it's just a bit of a hassle getting all the plastics off. Paul is correct it's the high pressure switch and lives under the plastics on the passenger side.

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I removed the sensor from my piping and left it attached to the wiring.

[mickeyduck]

Mint! Thank you Michael, Paul and Cam.

Dug into the BGB to see what you guys were talking about and sure enough...

Bridge this little guy and the radiator fans come right. Mind you, I will need to go for a blat and ensure the 2nd fan still comes on ok when seriously hot...

Plug with one wire black with little red bits, the other red with little black bits. Plug as per pics...

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[mknz]

Thanks, guys. I'll have a try tomorrow when I'm home. I swear I bridged this and it did nothing, I swear I also have only one fan going all the time (passenger). I'll have to unplug the radiator temp switch and try grounding it (or letting it be fully open) and see what happens. My hands are too fat, might have to pull the front off.

[mickeyduck]

OK so what we've discovered this weekend (and it all makes perfect sense) is you need to bridge that aircon pressure valve connector AND ensure the temp switch down low on the radiator is also plugged in. If either one is disconnected the left (passenger) side radiator fan goes non stop.

[mknz]

Sure it's the left fan Charlie? I tried jumping that connector and nothing happened. Also it's the RHS fan thats always on. Will swap in the good fuse box and see

[Mr-Paulio]

You can also rewire the a.c. fan to the rad fan. The fuse still handles the load of both. Cools faster and no random fan issues. Easy as. I can't remember left or right. But its easy to work out if it's running while cold. Or only while hot. Best to have two fans for cooling I think. Good luck

[mknz]

For my own records I measured my gas consumption today on the run:
189.3km
26.24L (possibly more because I swear the pump shut off early)
~13.9L/100km which is ~2.7 off the crowdsourced ~11.2

It was a balance of pinning it and cruising.


More interestingly, my front LHS park light has turned itself into an indicator, investigation is required.

[mknz]

I was so looking forward to carving some back roads. Someone broke the windscreen wiper control, expoxied it back on and it's stuck so I couldn't get a WOF.

[mknz]

For my own records I measured my gas consumption today on the run:
189.3km
26.24L (possibly more because I swear the pump shut off early)
~13.9L/100km which is ~2.7 off the crowdsourced ~11.2

It was a balance of pinning it and cruising.


More interestingly, my front LHS park light has turned itself into an indicator, investigation is required.

Fixed the indicator issue
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=15453

[mknz]

I was so looking forward to carving some back roads. Someone broke the windscreen wiper control, expoxied it back on and it's stuck so I couldn't get a WOF.

Also fixed this, it was actually hot glued at some point in the past knowing that they have a tendency to break. I used a hair dryer and toothpicked out the incriminating hot glue. I'll leave fixing this properly for later.

[mknz]

Replaced all four (front) tie rod ends and both boots. Pro tip the universal ones don't do well because this bloody rack is asymmetrical, I'll just buy OEM ones since the correct size aftermarket ones were out of stock.
Tightened the SC belt 1/8th turn since it had a tendency to whinge. Would rather spit a belt than kill a water pump. Used my magic tool and a shit ton of extension bars.
Got an alignment, had to teach them how to adjust camber and they wouldn't adjust caster (complained that it's too rusty). But they got it otherwise spot on

Proper post later

[mknz]

I mean you can figure out what happened from the pictures. I also replaced the front rotors since they were too low, new Chinese ones are cheap enough. The pads were only halfway so I reused them (they're expensive enough, but great).

[mknz]

For future reference

How to remove an AW11 FL P/W RHD driver's door card without breaking anything
Remove window switch by lifting it up at the back (door pocket side) and unplugging
Unscrew and remove pocket
Unscrew door handle trim and remove (open it halfway)
There's one clearly visible screw at the hinge side 3/4 of the way up
There's three more in the carpet map pocket, there's holes in the carpet front, middle, back
Unclips at the bottom and lifts up

[mknz]

Cheap rotors held up fine; no cracking, not getting totally chewed by the pads, dissipated heat
Just highway gets 400+km per tank (32L), but pinning it is about a L per Km. That refocuses things after spending $500 on gas for nationals
SC belt doesn't squeal when cold anymore
Bled front brakes a bit, thanks Ivor. Doesn't boil under heavy use anymore

TODO (ASAP)
Swap steering rack boots for the asymmetrical ones
Refix exhaust leaks (maybe I just get a new one)
Change oil

TODO (Can wait)
Stop it running so damn rich
Fix oil leak
Stop the fan running all the time
Fit new door card and window trim (damaged ones)
Figure out why the cigarette lighter provides bugger all current (might be the gauge of wiring)
Screw the side centre console panel back in
Peel stickers
Redo electrical tape
Silicon driver's window seal (and maybe t-top)
Change coolant
Install newly acquired bling
Urethane the steering shaft (rubbber has perished and it's boaty af)
Re under coat
Attack rust (just tiny spots)
Bleed back brakes
Grease brake calliper sliders
Get headlights to go down electrically
Manual convert
Add power and/or rebuild
Paint