Another MR2... Another project. The "BLACKRAT" Sw20

[Mr-Paulio]

Okay, I am convinced now SW's are the worst cars to work on. Disconnecting an Alternator is easy. Getting it out without removing a drive shaft or the distributor etc. What a pain. And every time I work on this car my hands get cut to shreds! The AW is so much easier to get to everything. Even with a V6 and a turbo stuffed in there!

Anyway, I digress.... Rant over....

I am after a cheap used alternator if anyone can help? Mine has the round plug but I can modify the wiring if need be.

[Benckj]

Stop whining, you have a NA and alternator will come the top. It’s tight and may need to pull bracket but will come. The turbo is another matter especially if you have a custom exhaust like mine. Just about have to drop the motor to get alternator extracted.

BTW the most common fault with alternator is the rectifier. Can actually replace along with regulator and slop rings without pulling alternator out.

[Mr-Paulio]

Stop whining, you have a NA and alternator will come the top. It’s tight and may need to pull bracket but will come. The turbo is another matter especially if you have a custom exhaust like mine. Just about have to drop the motor to get alternator extracted.

BTW the most common fault with alternator is the rectifier. Can actually replace along with regulator and slop rings without pulling alternator out.

Haha, it's true though aye. I've worked on a few cars and the SW has always been a pain. The clutch I did in my turbo was shit too. And thats all the same stuff as in my AW and old GT4 which went smoothly.
And no you can't get the NA alternator up without taking the bracket off. I think the way I did it was easier though. Dragged it along the sub frame and bent the wiring harness out the way, dizzy cap and leads off. Charcoal canister and intake line off. Then it comes up, just.

[ClanFever]

I believe the larger alternator will not come out the top, but the smaller one will. Your car will have one of 23,000 different models so glad you got it out

[Mr-Paulio]

I believe the larger alternator will not come out the top, but the smaller one will. Your car will have one of 23,000 different models so glad you got it out

Actually after closer investigation it seems the alternator is not a standard one. It looks to be modified to work, from another model. In fact, looks pretty close to a spare 3VZ one I have. So I may try and retro fit the 3VZ alt, more details to come. (Not Looking forward to getting it in there again though! ...So don't hold your breath)

[GDII]

I believe the larger alternator will not come out the top, but the smaller one will. Your car will have one of 23,000 different models so glad you got it out

Actually after closer investigation it seems the alternator is not a standard one. It looks to be modified to work, from another model. In fact, looks pretty close to a spare 3VZ one I have. So I may try and retro fit the 3VZ alt, more details to come. (Not Looking forward to getting it in there again though! ...So don't hold your breath)

Modified in what way?

[Mr-Paulio]

Modified in what way?

The alt removed from my SW....

That alt next to a 3VZ one.

[GDII]

Yip yip. Looks like your SW20 has the larger bracket or at some point this alternator was in a car with a large alternator bracket.
I assume you have a nut and bolt instead of just a nut holding it in place?

[Mr-Paulio]

Yes indeed.

[GDII]

It should have the small bracket on the engine based on the part numbers for that exact car. So to be sure when you put it back in see where the bolt ends up. Is it in the threaded part or the cut part? Just so you know what alternator to get of modify. a 14mm drill bit works too to make the holw bigger. It is an MR2 unit as it has a 4 rib pulley.

A big alternator will not come out the top unless you unbolt the bracket, shuffle stuff around then bolt the bracket back on and put it back. Almost easier to take off the subframe. Almost.

[ClanFever]

Get modding...

[Mr-Paulio]

So for reference, the 3VZ alternator does work in the 3SGE MR2. Same mod as above.... A bit of drilling. It also sits a little closer to the block. So I used a 810 belt as the 835 wouldn't get tight enough. Also the 3vz has a 5 rib pulley (if you forget to swap it and don't want to wiggle that alternator back out again.... like me) But you can still use the 4 rib. It's just harder to get on as it sits close to the frame.

All working now. Next issue was the engine wouldn't shut off with the ignition and even with the key out! Didn't take long to research this was the issue!
This guy....

Unplugged it and sweet as. I guess this is the engine bay cooling fan controller? As the radiator fans (both now wired to the radiator circuit, as no AC... #racecar!) Still work. Took it for a drive and no more issues?... So far anyway.... Maybe I've got rid of all the rats...?

Must be time I organise another south auck club run soon?

[GDII]

Interesting why that controller causes the engine to continue running. It's not connected to the other fan system in any way so that's fine to remove.

However it is connected onto the alternator wiring with the Black w/Yellow wire. Something isn't right somewhere in that circuit. That's the same wire that is connected to the alternator regulator. Hopefully that helps you.

[Mr-Paulio]

Yeah seemed odd. That's why initially I thought radiator fan system. When I switched the ignition off and the engine stayed running. All the fans came on also. It's not a safety that stops you turning the engine off with high temp? I was quite surprised after removing it that the radiator fans still cycled on temperature. I though I'd have to unplug the sensor and run them all the time. But I found online some one with the same problem found it was this controller. So I unplugged it, and it worked!
What fans does it operate then?

[GDII]

The controller only operates the engine bay fan or intercooler fan in turbo models. The temp sensor on the engine lid controls when the fan comes on, not coolant.

This circuit also provides power the the reverse light switch and the electronic speedo if the car was newer. So it's odd that the controller is keeping things going as this Black w/Yellow wire seems to power a lot of things and the controller is just on the end of one of the wires. Maybe a bad earth. The one on the intake manifold.

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