Olaf's 91 sw20 mr2

[ClanFever]

I had my mate over today and we manged to get the car to start as he did the ignition wires and semi rebuilt the starter motor, however we can only get it to start if the battery is plugged in directly to the starter motor, if it's at the front as normal, it won't start. It shoes 12.8V on the start motor when the key is at on, but as soon as you try and start it, the voltage drops down to between 1 and 2. Not enough. I am going to recharge the battery to see if that helps, and replace a battery terminal, but are there any other reasons the voltage would drop that much?

[born disturbed]

Wire resistance: Both on the poistive feed & on the earth side, the earth side is generally always over looked & is most often the cause on the issue.

This could be due to a break in the cable, bad terminal, loose connection or short to the body on feed side. Grab a mulitmeter & resistance check both cables to eliminate them from the list first, then load test the battery after a full night on charge to eliminate it from having a bad cell

[ClanFever]

Issue was irrelevant, after he had fixed the ignition wiring and rebuilt the starter I put in a fully charged battery and broom! Away

I've finished up the interior, I've installed a short shift kit, 300mm momo steering wheel, a fire extinguisher, a tint strip, and then removed everything I don't need for a wof, so all there is is mirrors, sun visors, seatbelts, seats, dash.... steering wheel.... horn... etc! I haven't yet put on my new drivers door that I got off Tat but I'll be doing that Friday then I'm moving onto the rest of the car.

[born disturbed]

Nice one!

Man that shifter looks like it would barely move at full throw

[ClanFever]

Nice one!

Man that shifter looks like it would barely move at full throw

Yeah I fear engaging the clutch as I think it's in neutral when it is in gear!

I've got 5 issues I have to deal with. The biggest issue is that all the buttons on my door set up don't work apart from the mirror folding button. No windows, no moving the mirrors, no central locking. I'll have to find out what that is about. I have to replace the drivers mirror as it vibrates like your wifes toy and I can't see any cops coming up behind me, the wires from the steering wheel keep coming undone so I have no horn and my seatbelt won't retract... so it comes and hangs out the door. And then there's the problem I had with it after my long track day. If I'm idling in neutral/clutch disengaged, the revs bounce all over the place, the physical motor doesn't rev but the rev counter does, it can go right up to 7000 then go to where 10000 would be, then jump back down and if it jumps down to 0 then the car stalls. Anyone have any ideas?

[born disturbed]

Have you checked the screws in the base of the mirror, maybe loose or missing or doesnt even have them to begin with (only guessing as I have this issue with my AW due to someone losing a special screw & my temporary replacement is not the best)


I can help out with a horn or button if needed, I mostly deal in Narva, Hella & Griffiths products. Let me know if you want any prices.

Our seatbelt suppliers are over priced cowboys so we now refuse to sell them, if you need a price though let me know & I will see if the boss will let me dig at the price a bit

[ClanFever]

Have you checked the screws in the base of the mirror, maybe loose or missing or doesnt even have them to begin with (only guessing as I have this issue with my AW due to someone losing a special screw & my temporary replacement is not the best)


I can help out with a horn or button if needed, I mostly deal in Narva, Hella & Griffiths products. Let me know if you want any prices.

Our seatbelt suppliers are over priced cowboys so we now refuse to sell them, if you need a price though let me know & I will see if the boss will let me dig at the price a bit

I will try but I have a whole new mirror and motor set up from my old door I may use. The seatbelt was fine before so I think something has caught it somewhere, but if I need one I'll just get a scrapped one. As for the swtich, I basically will need a button to mount on my dash which is fine for my application (as it's basically going to be a track/race car) so if you have a button and not a switch that's little and black then I may use one if I can't get the button the horn to work. Cheers!

[born disturbed]

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/push-button" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

#60038BL 6Amp momentary 12.5mm mounting hole

#60037BL 20Amp momentary Chrome 19mm mounting hole

#60040BL 16Amp momentary 12mm mounting hole

http://www.hella.co.nz/3-389-1029/produ ... urn-Switch" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hella flashness: 16Amp mounting hole 44.1mm x 22.1mm ( This one requires a plug which comes seperately )

[ClanFever]

Removed the front bumper, bumper bar, front support, headlights, wheels and brakes (almost) to repaint and replace most of it. Getting there!

[Logan]

Good time to bin all that useless aircon stuff to eh!

[Reuban]

is it just me or that axle stand under your lower suspension arm? How stable is that?

[Benckj]

Thats what I thought too. Need to move stand to sill behind front wheel or under sway bar mount.

[JasonFriday13]

I would too. Jack stands are not meant to hold a car up by it's suspension, as the stored energy in the shock could cause a nasty accident.

[ClanFever]

The picture doesn't show it clearly but it's on the axle, and I thought that's okay as they are axle stands. Anyone have a photo of the front and back of where I should have them? I'm not fully mechanical minded yet so I can't go by names, only pictures or diagrams. Thanks for looking out for me though!

Good time to bin all that useless aircon stuff to eh!

Most certainly! Anyone done a write up yet on the process?

EDIT: Oh right I get what you mean by sills, but I thought those were a no no except to scissor jacks as they bend? Am I okay doing them with axle stands for long periods of time for the front and back?

[Reuban]

You should be able to see a spot near each end of the sill with two indents, they mark the jacking points. Put your axle stands there and it'll be much safer, you can get it quite high there if you need to as well.
Mine was on stands there for about 3 months and was sweet so wouldn't worry about time
(edit) plus that's your bottom control arm, axles go between the gearbox and rear hubs.